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David Morales' Honda 50 Magnum - Man-Sized Mini

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While I’ve contributed to Pipeburn in the past (showcasing Julian Farnam’s fantastic Dirtbag Challenge budget-build CHOPPRD) my personal specialty is profiling unusual and rare production bikes. For a motorcycle to meet my criteria and be featured in one of my articles it must be weird, cool, and most importantly something exceptional that few have bothered to cover in any great detail. So while I enjoy a good custom as much as the next red-blooded motorcycle fanatic, I don’t often come across builds that really tick all the boxes to earn the Official OddBike Seal of Approval.

So when I got an unsolicited email from a kind fellow by the name of David Morales with pictures of a modified-beyond-recognition Honda Z50A monkeybike, I knew I had found my next contribution to Pipeburn and a custom machine that would be worthy of the OddBike designation. Behold – the 50 Magnum.

Laverda 1000 V6 - The World's Fastest Laboratory

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Image Courtesy Cor Dees Laverda Museum

As I’ve said on Silodrome before, if you want a quick ticket into the Motorcycle Hall of Fame (in the hearts and minds of motorcycle aficionados, anyway) you must build a six-cylinder machine. Nothing is quite as technologically impressive and magnificently superfluous as stuffing far more cylinders than are necessary to do the job into a contraption that is far too small to properly accommodate them. You can easily attain the power you need with a far simpler and lighter four. But fours have become so boring, so conventional, and hardly meriting of the breathless praise of us enthusiasts/bloggers.

Most people are familiar with the Honda CBX1000, and perhaps the Benelli Sei that preceded it as the first six-cylinder production machine. These flagship models book ended the 1970s, a heady time when progress in motorcycle design began to accelerate towards modernity with a series of impressively over-engineered rides that would become the genesis of a new era of performance and complexity. Where the automotive world was mired in the malaise of the gas crisis and smog controls, development in the motorcycle industry was fast and progress was being made in leaps and bounds, spurred on by the quality and innovation shown by the Japanese manufacturers who set about obliterating the old marques on the street and track.

Image Courtesy Cor Dees Laverda Museum
It was during this heyday, in the period between the Sei and the CBX, that a well-respected Italian marque came up with the hare brained idea of hiring an automotive engineer to design an advanced V-6 engine that would blow away the competition on the track and offer the tantalizing possibility of being slotted into one of the most powerful and exclusive road bikes the world had seen up to that point.
This week, I present the legendary Laverda V6, the only vee-six powered motorcycle, and one of the most notable machines to roll out of the Breganze works.

Image Courtesy Motorrad Classic

Image Courtesy Laverda Corse

Barigo Onixa 600 - Gallic Supermono

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Barigo Onixa 600 supermono motorcycle
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Contribute to the OddBike USA Tour on Indiegogo

 

After fawning over multi-cylindered complexities for the last few months, I think it’s time to take a step back and return to the basics – one big piston, a sporty chassis, and no extraneous nonsense to dull the fun. Big four-stroke singles were once the mainstay of racing and road riding the world over, with road-burning thumpers from Great Britain defining the genre and dominating the poles on track, off road, and on the street. But by the 1960s more powerful twins were taking over and stealing the public’s attention away from these simple but versatile singles. The demand for more power and more speed overshadowed the once mighty thumpers, which increasingly became relegated to off-road categories where their simplicity, light weight and ample torque were an asset.

There always remained a small but loyal contingent of enthusiasts who desired a classic sporting single, a simple, nimble and punchy machine that could dice with the best in the twisties without the complexity and superfluous doohickery of the be-cylindered tire vaporizers that dominate the spec sheets and the sales charts. They longed for a bike that harkened back to the good old days of sporting motorcycles, when it was you, the road, and one big piston slinging you down the road. But these folks didn’t want something that appealed to the typical rose-tinted nostalgia. They wanted something modern, something fast, and something that wasn’t a throwback.



Barigo Onixa 600 supermono motorbike
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They wanted a supermono: a rare category of sport bike that has all but died out today, but was in its prime (such as it was) in the 1990s. You had a surprising number of options if you wanted a big, 500cc-plus single cylinder sporting bike in the mid 90s, not to mention the Super Mono and Sound of Singles race categories to support the competition side. The Yamaha SRX and SZR, KTM Duke, and BMW F650 had you covered for roadsters, and if you wanted something more exotic you could pick up a Bimota BB1. If you were a pretentious fashionista, you’d have an Aprilia Starck 6.5. If you were suitably heeled and wanted to dominate the racetrack, not to mention make your paddock mates jealous, there was the Ducati Supermono. That's not mentioning the retro-styled Honda GB, or the rare Gilera Saturno Bialbero.

Considering the dearth of options today, you had quite a few options for fun singles from mainstream marques during this one-lung renaissance.

But this is OddBike. We don’t do mainstream. So for our example of the extinct supermono species I present the Barigo Onixa 600, the sole French entry into the category and one of the finest examples of the breed.

Barigo Onixa 600 motorcycle
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Barigo was the creation of French off-road specialist Patrick Barigault (which is pronounced, as you might guess, Barry-go). Barigault got his start in the 1976 with a prototype frame built for a friend's Bultaco 250, followed by a series of off-road frames built around Honda and Yamaha engines, which the company history notes were to replace the "crack-prone English frames" popular with competitors at the time. The first production model, powered by a four-stroke Honda XL 500 motor, was introduced in 1979 and dubbed the 500 HB. Pretty soon Barigo earned a reputation for excellent off-roaders and enduros, usually built around big four-stroke Japanese singles. Competition success proved the mettle of the La Rochelle-built machines, with a win at the 1981 Tunisia Rally (noted as a "Yamaha" but in fact an XT500-engined Barigo), 3rd in the 1982 Paris-Dakar, and 11th and 12th place in 1983 'Dakar.

Barigo Onixa Exhausts
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By the mid-80s Barigo was well established in off-road competition. From 1984 onward the company used Rotax 500 and 600cc singles, with the odd experiment with other engines, including a Ducati-engined enduro called the F1 Desert that beat the Cagiva Elephant to the punch by a year. But there was something new on the horizon. In 1986 they were ready to branch out into the relatively new "Supermoto" category. Supermoto got its start in 1979 as a sort of mixed-skills category where riders had to alternate between dirt and tarmac sections on the same closed course. Oddly enough it started as a segment on ABC's Wide World of Sports called "Superbikers" where racers from three distinct disciplines - flat track, motocross, and road racing - would compete on a course that combined elements of all three categories. The original series was hosted in the USA until 1985, but continued in Europe where it evolved into the sport we know today.

Barigo Magie Noire Tanagra Supermoto
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Supermoto machines are generally converted single-cylinder motocrossers. Slap on some asphalt-appropriate wheels and tires, firm up the suspension, upgrade the brakes - bam: supermoto machine. Factory offerings didn't really hit the market until the 1990s, only really coming into vogue in the 2000s after the sport was reintroduced in the US following its European education. Before then most competition machines were converted by riders or specialists. That is, with one notable exception: Barigo introduced the first factory supermoto machine, powered by a 558cc air-cooled four-stroke Rotax mill, at the 1986 Paris motorcycle salon. Dubbed the Magie Noire ("Black Magic"), it proved to be a machine well ahead of its time. The chassis and bodywork looked like a modern dirtbike, but the running gear was aimed at the asphalt, featuring three-spoke composite alloy wheels with tubeless tires. Dry weight was 265 pounds, with up to 55 hp on tap via an optional factory hop-up kit. To avoid confusion (or copyright issues, depending on who you ask) with a Lancome perfume of the same name the bike was re-christened the Tanagra. Despite good press and a fair share of interest it was only produced in extremely limited numbers, supposedly less than 10 examples. It should be noted Barigo was always a tiny manufacturer, having no more than a dozen employees at any given time - mass produced they were not.

 

In 1992 Barigo introduced the SM 600, which continued the formula laid out by the Magie Noire/Tanagra but with the added bonus of being produced in quantities that exceeded a single digit. By this time Gilera had built the first mass-produced supermoto in the form of the 1991 Nordwest, but aside from the thumper from Arcore the SM really had no peers. It also bested the Nordwest in power with a claimed 61hp from a liquid-cooled 599cc Rotax engine, and was lighter than the Italian at 290 lbs dry. Journalists sung praise for the well-sorted chassis and flickable nature of the SM (in spite of its long 60 inch wheelbase) and instant punch of the Rotax engine, which made equivalent singles from the Japanese seem lazy in comparison. Not much of a surprise given that most 500-600cc singles were (and still are) big enduros and trail bikes, not flyweight road carvers that inspire hooligan tendencies.

Barigo SM 600 Supermoto Motorcycle
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With a stout alloy frame, nimble handling and a punchy motor, it wasn't much of a stretch to imagine the SM as a good base for a single-cylinder sportbike. That was the genesis of the Onixa 600 - take the SM 600, bolt on some lower road-oriented suspension bits, wrap it in a full fairing - bam: instant supermono. The result was much more than a simple tweak of an existing model, and performed better than the sum of its parts - the Onixa ended up being one of the best road going supermonos that never was.

Barigo Onixa 600 supermono motorcycle prototype
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The Onixa was unveiled in prototype form at the 1993 Paris Salon and garnered a fair share of attention. The SM 600 frame was unchanged, but the running gear was more road oriented. The swingarm was shortened more than an inch. Wheelbase was now around 56 inches. Suspension was as you'd expect from a sporty European middleweight  - 40mm inverted WP forks at the front and a WP monoshock at the back. The rear used a straight-rate mount, unlike most modern sporting bikes that have a rising-rate linkage to give more progressive springing. Wheels were 17 inch composite items in magnesium from Technomagnesio. Up front was a single 310mm disc gripped by a comically oversized Beringer 6-piston caliper. A then-fashionable stacked "shotgun" exhaust added some visual weight to the left side. Everything was wrapped bulbous black bodywork. A large solo-seat tailsection hid the dirtbike-style subframe and underseat fuel tank. Oh, and it appeared to be hunchbacked due to a massive hump-shaped dummy fuel tank that was nearly as tall the windscreen.

Barigo Onixa Prototype
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The, um, unusual proportions weren't for purely aesthetic reasons (thankfully) - there was a pragmatic reason for the butt-ugly gas tank. You see the SM shared one characteristic common to most dirtbikes - a tiny fuel tank. Fuel range was in the double-digits. Fine for an uncompromising hooligan mount but not ideal for a road-oriented sport bike that might be called upon to ride farther than the corner store. So Barigo extended the cell up from under the seat into the traditional location above the motor. One problem: the twin-spar frame was extremely tall and arched over the top of the engine's already high cylinder head, which meant that the new fuel tank had to be stuck way up into the rider's face. They also saw fit to throw a dummy cover over the assembly with a pair of vacuum-cleaner - erm, "ram air" - intake ducts funneling air from above the headlamps down to the airbox. It created an ungainly looking creature that appeared as tall as it was long, like the ungodly lovechild of a mutated flatfish and a RC30.

Barigo Onixa Blue Motorcycle Supermono
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Even if it wasn't exactly pretty, the concept seemed sound and the project went ahead. In 1994 a bright-red pre-production model was made available for flogging at the hands of journalists 'round the Bordeaux Merignac race track. The magnesium composite wheels were replaced with Marvic aluminum items, the swingarm had some added bracing, and a few detail changes distinguished the red machine from the black prototype show in Paris, but aside from that the machine was more or less as promised - a full bodied large-bore supermono with a highly tuned Rotax heart. The WP suspension and Beringer brake remained, while the chassis benefited from an adjustable rake that could be varied between 24 and 28 degrees.

The engine was a liquid-cooled 97x81mm 599cc double-cam mill with a four-valve head, the same engine that was used in the SM, counterbalanced to mitigate the usual big-single vibrations. Claimed power was 61hp at 8000 rpm and 42 lb/ft at 6000. Like all Rotax singles of the era the transmission was a five-speed. Ignition came via three spark plugs, induction through two 36mm Dell'Orto carburettors.

Why three plugs? Spend any time researching four-stroke tuning and you'll learn that one of the most important elements of performance (that is consistently overlooked) is combustion - specifically the propagation of flame fronts through the combustion chamber. Ideal flame propagation comes from turbulent mixture being swirled past the ignition source(s). Multi-plug heads in large combustion chambers (like in, say, a big-ass 600cc single) introduce multiple ignition sources to start multiple flame fronts and better burn the fuel mix. Modern pent-roofed combustion chambers with shallow included valve angles and large squish bands are also important, as they have less volume to ignite and introduce turbulence when the piston compresses the charge into the chamber, squeezing it from the squish zones around the edge into the centre where the spark plug resides. Moving mixture burns and propagates flame better than stagnant mix sitting in large pockets, like you'd get in a old fashioned cylinder head with a wide valve angle and a domed piston. Nowadays multi-plug heads are as much about emissions as they are about ensuring good combustion - the better the burn, the less hydrocarbons that come out the dirty end. Of course everything is a compromise - you can't go sticking a dozen spark plugs into a cylinder head without taking much-needed space away from the valves and squish area, or getting into the way of the intake, exhaust and coolant ports in the heads.

Barigo Onixa Supermono
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Back to the Onixa: Testers noted the counterbalanced engine was smoother than expected, if not completely free of buzziness.  Handling was notably good, easy to manoeuvre with good stability, and power very useable as long as you kept it over 3000 rpm to bypass the driveline lash. The single front disc might not have looked like much, but the huge six-piston Beringer caliper had no trouble stopping the lightweight machine. Really it would have been a shock if it didn't perform well - dry weight was around 320 lbs, and the Onixa benefited from a shorter wheelbase and steeper rake than the SM that spawned it. Top speed was around 125 mph.

Barigo Onixa motorbike
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There were a few criticisms leveled against the Onixa. The big one was the odd appearance, which was either described as handsome or horrifying depending on who was writing the review. The tall tank raised the centre of gravity considerably, while intruding into the rider's space - you couldn't tuck in behind the windscreen with the humpback jutting in your face. It gave a new benchmark for the "dog fucking a football" riding position - at-speed shots made it look like a body-coloured airbag was going off in front of the rider's chest. And the five-speed gearbox was pretty old hat for a modern supersport, even if the motor had a broad spread of torque.

Barigo GT 600 and 600 E motorcycle prototypes
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Barigo hoped to build 300 Onixas a year, with more on the horizon if they were able to secure a police contract for a roadster variant dubbed the GT 600. The GT used the same frame and engine as the Onixa/SM, but had fully-faired dual-sport styling, Onixa running gear, and integrated luggage. Completing the lineup was an enduro based on the same platform dubbed the 600 E. This was in addition to the SM 600 that was already in production. Two GT prototypes were build along with one E before the police contract fell through and the project was cancelled. Without enough funding to setup series production the Onixa was shelved after only three machines were built - the black prototype (which was disassembled after the 1993 Salon), the red development tester, and a blue pre-production machine. Rumour had it that the red machine may have had as much as 71 hp due to some factory fettling - was it a specially-prepared ringer passed off as a "pre-production" machine to unsuspecting journalists? Was the tuning done before or after the journalists had their fun? They certainly wouldn't be the first or last manufacturer to tweak a test bike to improve the odds...

Barigo GT 600 Police
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Compared to its peers, the Onixa had the most potential to be the benchmark in the supermono category - styling excepted. Let's examine the competition, with some leeway in dates (some came before, some just after). The BMW F650 was a quasi-offroad roadster dubbed the, ahem, "Funduro" - which in hindsight is probably the most cringeworthy and emasculating name you could christen anything other than a Chinese 50cc scooter. The KTM Duke was more of a refined supermoto than anything else, dubbed a "streetmoto" by MCN. The Yamaha SRX was behind the curve, having been around since the mid-80s and perennially not selling well since it was introduced (remember when I talked about enthusiast specials?). The MuZ (later MZ) Skorpion was a relatively unexciting machine powered by a lazy Yamaha XT motor (shared with the SRX, in fact), and earned a reputation for poor quality over the years. The Ducati Supermono was without peer as a factory single-cylinder sport machine, but it was hideously expensive and reserved for the track - you might as well have been shopping for WSBK-spec race bike if you were considering the Supermono.

Barigo Onixa and Bimota BB1
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That leaves the Bimota BB1 (BMW-Bimota 1) as the Onixa's principal rival - it had superb handling and top-spec equipment, and it looked like a proper Bimota (which is to say pretty good). Problem was it was expensive, they only built 148, and the motor was shared with the, ugh, "Funduro" but with the added excitement of poor fueling and unconscionable vibration - details are scant but I presume Bimota ditched the counterbalancer that kept the BMW from shaking itself to pieces. The more you look at the competition of the period the more the Onixa looks like a winner. Especially if you consider that at the time most superbikes were big, bad, macho heavyweights that usually clocked in at over 500 lbs, and supersports were easily pushing 450 lbs or more. A 300-odd pound sportster with a useable spread of power and a good chassis would have decimated the big boys on tight roads. Just ask anyone who was fortunate enough to own a 250 two-stroke of that era.

Bimota BB1 and Barigo Onixa
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Alas Barigo was not long for this world after they cancelled the Onixa project. The company attempted to remain afloat by introducing an electric scooter in 1994 dubbed the Barilec, but things were going downhill fast. Between 1995 and 1997 only 40 SMs, 100 Barilecs, and a handful of competition chassis were built-to-order before the company went under. As the 1990s progressed demand for sporty singles waned, multi-cylinder machines became more refined, singles racing became relegated to support events, and demand for proper supermonos was relegated to unrealistic pining from that amorphous group know simply as "enthusiasts" writing on internet forums. The recent 2012 switch from two stroke 125s to 250 four stroke singles in the Moto3 category has renewed a bit of interest in lightweight one-lunged sport bikes but manufacturers, with the possible exception of KTM, have been slow to respond.

Barigo was an innovative company that punched well above its weight in the marketplace, first by producing successful motocrossers, followed by some of the toughest enduros in the world, then introducing the first production supermoto to the market. Unfortunately innovation isn't enough to keep the lights on, and Barigo disappeared despite debasing their brand with cash-grabbing run of electric scooters. The name re-appeared in 2001 on an experimental racing project that was aimed at developing a chassis for a future zero-emissions motorcycle, but despite some success on track (it placed second in the Challenge des Monos category in 2001, and came out of retirement to compete again in 2010) the project has apparently been abandoned. Today Barigo is no more, and the Onixa remains a footnote in the history of modern sport bikes. The Onixa was potentially one of the best single-cylinder sport machines of the era, a tantalizing 'what if' for lovers of single-piston simplicity the world over. What if it had entered production and stomped the competition? What if Barigo hadn't slid into insolvency? What if it hadn't looked like a NR750 run over by a steamroller? Regardless of the speculation, the supermono remained a niche category that appealed to but a small number of riders, a niche that has become virtually non-existent since the mid-1990s.

Barigo Onixa
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Interesting Links
1994 review of the Onixa
French language reviews of the Onixa
French language reviews of the SM 600
French Wikipedia entry on Barigo
Overview of the Barigo story with photos of their motocross and enduro machines
Some photos of various Rotax-engined Barigos
Details of the Magie Noire/Tanagra supermoto

OddBike USA Tour: Part I - Prologue

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It's a 916. With luggage. Deal with it.

As promised in the OddBike USA Tour Indiegogo campaign, I will be providing my readers with an in-depth ride report detailing my journey across the United States by Ducati 916. I’ll also be revealing the more candid commentary and thoughts from my adventure. Pour yourself a drink and join me for some vicarious cross-country touring.

Prologue

Incredulity, followed by a comment on the size and metallic composition of my testicles. That is usually the immediate reaction I receive when I tell people I use a Ducati 916 for touring duty. I’ve never seen it as that exceptional. Sure, 916s have earned a reputation for being cantankerous and uncomfortable mounts that are certainly ill suited to cross-country adventures. But reputation and reality are two different things.

Actually I’m lying: the reputation is well earned and quite accurate. I’m not a Ducati apologist who sugar coats the truth in favour of rosy nostalgia or blind brand worship. Riding a 916 any great distance is an exercise in zen-like concentration and meditative pain control, always haunted by the remote but present possibility of mechanical disaster. Spend any time on a Ducati forum and the stories of horror, and the photos of shattered alloy that were once engines, will instill an irrational but justifiable fear into the heart of any Ducati owner.



One of my favourite quotes comes from Peter Egan about an exchange with a mechanic after telling him he planned on riding his Norton Commando from Wisconsin to Washington State:


"Jeff, the head BMW/ex-British Twin mechanic, stepped outside to look at my bike, wiping his hands on a rag. I told him about my trip and asked if there was anything special I should do, outside of regular maintenance, to prepare the bike for a 4,000-mile trip.
'If I were you,' Jeff said, 'I'd change my oil, adjust my chain, set the valves, and then, just before I left, I'd trade it on a BMW.'"

The most inappropriate tool for the job.

That’s precisely why I enjoy using a 916 as my daily driver and occasional long-distance mount. The mere act of riding it further than the nearest café is a flip off to all those jello-butted Ducatista poseurs who are scared of putting five digits on the odometer, and thumbed nose at all those fairweather tourers who wouldn’t ride more than 100 miles on anything other than a full-dress 800-pound touring rig. I ride a 916 thousands of miles because I can, and because I like to be an iconoclast in my poor choice of equipment.

Also it’s my only vehicle, it’s paid for, and I couldn’t afford to get something more appropriate if I wanted to.

Of course I've learned over the years that no matter how tough or proficient you think you are, there is always someone out there who is riding a pre-war machine a thousand miles further than you. Presumably while eating nothing but beef jerky mixed with crushed glass, carrying a backpack loaded with cinder blocks, occasionally pausing at truck stops and asking burly truckers to kick them in the groin a few times to warm them up. That's not mentioning the Iron Butt brigade, who do their damnedest to make everyone else on two wheels feel inadequate. One must be careful when assuming one's level of badassitude, because there are plenty of far more hardened old gits out there who will be happy to demonstrate how weak and unskilled you really are.

in·con·gru·ous: strange because of not agreeing with what is usual or expected.

But I digress – you’re here to read about the OddBike USA Tour. So let’s step back a bit and start at the beginning.

It’s mid-summer, 2013. I’m sitting at my desk at my day job, which is located in a basement retail store. I’m staring at my computer screen for about the fourth consecutive hour that day. I've run out of ways to appear busy when the boss is looking. I work in the type of business that we would charitably call a “destination store”: a high-falutin’ luxury retail shop, accessed through double-locked bulletproof doors, on an street populated by bars and nightclubs, with shitty parking. We don't get much traffic in the course of the day. Some weeks are so quiet that you begin to see visitors as undesirable interruptions to your meditative state. Their arrival jars you out of your catatonic trance and you are more annoyed than enthused by the sight of another human being. This is not a place where you make many friends.

I spend most of my time tinkering with the online aspects of the business and hammering out the odd bit of content. But it’s impossible to stay focussed and occupied 8 hours a day, so I often find myself staring at that damnable LCD screen, hunched over the keyboard, watching my skin whiten from lack of sunlight and feeling my muscle atrophy. It’s in these moments when I've run out of things to do that I feel truly trapped. Your average white-collar retail gig, in other words: the sort of soul-crushing routine where you expend far too much energy attempting to look busy rather than actually accomplishing anything.

It looks akward because it is.

It’s within this environment that I began developing an escape plan. An idea I had long been mulling over was the classic “Coast to Coast” cross-country tour. I wanted to ride a motorcycle across Canada (and back again). This sort of wanderlust seems to be a peculiarity of us North Americans. We live in a vast landscape that occupies multiple time zones and spans thousands of miles. A cross-country tour to the average European would be a pleasant weekend trip. To a Canadian or American, it’s an arduous journey, a rite of passage that every motorcyclist worth his or her salt must accomplish before they can be considered a “real” rider. We envy those fearless enough to drop everything and hit the road with no particular destination in mind – just ride till you hit ocean, then turn around and do it again.

I had the opportunity to meet Dennis Matson a year ago when he was passing through Montreal on the northernmost portion of his cross-continental blast. For those of you not familiar with Dennis’ journey, I strongly encourage you to read his travelogue. I can’t possibly summarize the journey in any meaningful way, you must read his thoughts and reports. The synopsis is he dropped everything, sold his current bike, bought a brand-new Ducati 1199, and hit the road immediately with just a backpack and the clothes on his back with no particular destination in mind. 15,000 miles later he finished his journey, inspiring intense jealousy among thousands of people who yearn for the ability to let go and ride.

Dennis’ adventure was utterly inspiring, and maddeningly accessible. Two wheels and whatever you can carry on your back and you could be on an epic soul-searching trek. Of course reality, work, bills, and debts keep most of us grounded (Dennis was fortunate enough to have a job that could be done on the road by telecommuting). But the idea was planted and my wanderlust was ignited, smouldering in the back of my mind over the winter, spring and summer.

I finally snapped around July, and set my idea into motion. I began organizing my thoughts and making a serious plan of action to get my ass across the country. I may be crazy enough to use a 916 for a daily rider, but I’m not stupid enough to try and ride it 7500 miles both ways across Canada. I needed to get a second bike, my first choice being a used Honda CBR 1100 XX Super Blackbird, my favourite intercontinental ballistic sport tourer, and enough funding to pay for 30 days on the road.

Being perpetually broke like most Gen Ys I sought aid from my bank. Here’s a tip – don’t ever go to your bank and tell them you are applying for a loan to drive a motorcycle across the country. Tell them you want to buy RRSPs, or sink a bunch of money into junk bonds, or put your cash into a big pile so you can set it on fire. The moment you utter the words “motor cycle” you will see their eyes glaze over in that moment of realization that they are about to waste the next 30 minutes filing an application that will go nowhere.

In other words my idea of flying across Canada by Blackbird was shot down in short order.

All the 916 owners reading this just winced.

I was explaining my desire to travel across the land to a friend of mine who lives in Louisiana. Then I had a lightbulb moment and brought up Google Maps. Louisiana is about 1500 miles from Montreal. 3000 miles isn’t that crazy on the 916 – I’ve done nearly that much on it in the past, as long as I paced myself it would be a relatively easy journey. I asked him for a couch to crash on, and he agreed. I told him I’d be coming in summer of 2014, to which he asked why not this year? I explained my financial bind, and that I would need time to put money aside. He gave me a verbal kick in the ass: “I laid out a plan for you a few months ago”.

What he meant was that several months prior he had proposed a new concept to me – crowdsource funds to write OddBike articles. It was something that had never been done in the motorcycle blogosphere: propose a topic and canvas for funding to pay for the research and travel expenses from the readers themselves, rather than sponsors or advertisers. I didn't take it seriously at the time, and put his advice on the back burner. But as OddBike grew and my writing became more involved, the idea became tantalizing. It would enable me to write better articles and pay for some of the considerable time I invest into the site, without resorting to whoring OddBike out to sponsors and advertisers. I would go direct to my readers for help, and I would only have to answer to them. And having funding for travel and research would allow me to reach out and meet key industry people face to face, something that is virtually impossible to do while living in Montreal.

Anti-touring bike.

I was reluctant to ask anyone for money - I would make a terrible entrepreneur, as I feel guilty asking anyone for help. But I had nothing to lose. So I sat down and did some thinking. To make it worthwhile to my readers and myself I’d need to maximize the possibilities for content gathering along the way. The Barber Vintage Festival was coming up in October, and Birmingham is on the way to Louisiana, so that became one of my first destinations. Motus and Confederate are two independent American brands I've been meaning to profile, and they are both located in Birmingham as well. Former Confederate designer JT Nesbitt has a studio in New Orleans and is working on a cool new design that I was interested in checking out. Later I heard tell of the mysterious Traub V-twin at the Wheels Through Time museum in Maggie Valley, North Carolina so I added a stop there to investigate. I now had a series of articles laid out. I could ride down and gather information, conduct interviews, and take photos (an important consideration - one thing they don’t tell you about motorcycle journalism is that everyone demands top-quality exclusive images, regardless of how good your content might be). I’d also have the opportunity to make myself known to a few key people in the industry and spread the word about OddBike and my writing. And of course I’d have fodder for an interesting travelogue.

Everything you need for an adventure.

Pretty soon my “vacation” was looking like more work than my soul-sucking day job. And that was immensely appealing: this would be an intense journey that would allow me to move forward with my passion and take OddBike to the next level. So I set to work and hammered out an Indiegogo proposal. Much to my amazement the contributions started trickling in. I had gone into the campaign expecting nothing to come of it. But now I had backers putting down cash to see me on my way, and I owed it to them to make sure the trip happened and that I followed through on my promises. The OddBike USA Tour was on.

I began getting equipped for the trip. To keep expenses to a minimum I’d camp in state parks most of the way, with a few couches to crash on along the way offered by generous OddBike fans. I picked up a cheap set of soft saddlebags and some backpack camping gear. I planned a route and organized my stops. I was able to confirm visits with everyone except Confederate (I will try to organize something but as of this moment nothing is confirmed). Finally I gave the bike a once over to make sure everything was in order. I spent most of last season sorting out issues and chasing gremlins - while most people might be put off by a season full of problems and repeated breakdowns, a seasoned Italophile sees it as an extended shakedown run where you have the opportunity to sort everything out before next year. Optimism is a required outlook when owning an old Italian motorcycle, as is a philosophy of masochistic fatalism (I resign myself to my immutable fate, and I will enjoy it).

When touring by sportbike simplicity is key. I don’t like elaborate touring gear, and I think it is silly to pay thousands of dollars for boxes that weigh more than the widgets you will be putting inside them. I use lightweight sport saddlebags, my trusty 20$ tankbag which has accompanied me for 8 years, a low-profile backpack, and some cold-weather touring gear to keep comfy. Clothes, tent, sleeping bag, a few snacks, toolkit, a handful of zip ties – good to go.

I practiced my usual style of trip planning – sketch out the broad strokes but leave the details open so that I’m not adhering to a strict schedule. About 300 miles a day, which I can do comfortably without rushing - I also have a tendency to miss exits and take wrong turns so I like to leave myself some leeway in my scheduling. I made no advanced reservations so I can modify my route as I see fit. I’ll be passing through New York, Pennsylvania, Virginia, Tennessee, North Carolina, Alabama, and Louisiana. It will be a total of two weeks on the road, mostly on the Interstate with the odd excursion onto some backroads.

Come Sunday, October 6th the OddBike USA Tour begins.

Be sure to follow OddBike on Facebook to get regular trip updates.
GPS is for pansies.



OddBike USA Tour: Part II - Setting Out

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Ducati 916 Fall in New England

Part II of the OddBike USA Tour Travelogue. Click here for Part I.

Thanks

Now that the OddBike USA Tour has been completed, I want to extend my thanks to everyone who contributed and supported the idea. I couldn't have done this without your help. 

Contributors to the campaign:
Luc Allain
Dr. Jeff Buchanan-Dorrance
Jeanne and Dennis Cormier
Alexander Cusick
Alicia Elfving - MotoLady
"Dr. John"
Niklas Klinte
Andrew and Adrienne McIntosh
Dennis Matson
James McBride - Silodrome.com
David and Jennifer Morales
Andrew Olson

And five other contributors who preferred to remain anonymous. Whoever you are, a profound thanks.

Special thanks goes out to a few folks who were kind enough to offer their help and support along the way:

Lee Conn and Brian Case - Motus Motorcycles
Denis and Chuck - Barber Vintage Motorsports Museum
JT Nesbitt - Bienville Studios
The guys at Baker's Garage in Lacey Springs, Virginia
Scott - Pipeburn.com
Winslow Taft
Michael Walshaw - Kriega USA 
Dale Walksler and the rest of the folks at the Wheels Through Time Museum
Alan Wilzig and the gang at WRM

Thanks again to everyone who made this happen!

Ducati 916 New York

Setting Out

I have a strange relationship with motorcycle riding. I have an absolute, unmitigated passion for the sport and I’ve been riding since I was 17, but I still get pangs of apprehension every morning before I hit the road. You would think I should be accustomed to it by now, and yet each journey is preceded by intense bouts of anxiety. It’s not the danger or the risk, which has never factored into it for me. I simply don’t worry about such things. It’s something else, like an intense excitement that builds into this climax of fretfulness and physical discomfort. When I learned that Formula 1 legend James Hunt would often throw up right before a race, I immediately understood. Contrary to what you might think, it wasn't because he was scared, though he had a healthy appreciation for the danger involved in his sport. It was the energy and intensity of the coming event building up inside him to a literal bursting point.



Once I am on the bike, this unease and discomfort immediately melts away and I become part of the machine. My mind settles and my body relaxes. The act of riding becomes soothing, in spite of the fury of the machine and the heightened awareness necessary to pilot it. It’s an addictive routine – your body vibrating with anticipation, followed by a wave of intense calm and serenity washing over you.

I wake up early on the morning of October 6th, an hour before sunrise. I down a cup of coffee and have a light breakfast, my stomach turning at the thought of food. I rarely eat anything before noon, but I force down a few nutritious items to sustain me for the morning ride. I slowly zip into my gear and check over my luggage, making my last minute checks. I maintain a calm demeanor as I pack and adjust my armour, moving slowly and deliberately while my torso burns with the anticipation of the journey that lies ahead of me.

Ducati 916 New York

I descend into the parking garage, helmet in hand with my gear slung over my shoulder. I walk around the bike, performing a final check of the lights, tire pressure, fluid levels. I secure my luggage and roll the machine out of my parking spot.

My anxiety has built to a fever pitch at this moment. This is just part of my routine before every significant ride.

I turn the key and flick on the fast idle button. I turn my eyes to the dash and instinctively watch the oil pressure light as I stab the starter button. After a few characteristically lazy turns the engine fires into life and booms in the confines of the garage, the thundering exhaust offset by the clattering and pinging of the dry clutch. The oil light promptly flicks off and I begin to relax. I click the throttle forward to turn off the fast idle, allowing the engine to lope along as it warms up - the staff isn't fond of my Ferraci pipes so I keep noise to a minimum until I leave the building.

I slowly slide my helmet on. The bike stalls, as usual, and I pause to tap the starter button again. The Ducati warmup routine is always the same, and stalling is part of the process. Something about two big pistons in a high state of tune that makes most Ducatis stall happy – sometimes you can get the throttle bodies balanced perfectly and it will never cut out, sometimes the balance is off by a gnat’s ass and it will die at every other stoplight. Part of the charm, I suppose. I define those elusive clichés of  “character” and “soul” in inanimate motorcycles as consistent inconsistency. Even when perfectly tuned a 916 will still occasionally cough, hiccup, misfire, or stall. No rhyme or reason, and no predictability – they just do. You come to accept it as the "personality" of the machine, and it makes the thing far more endearing than your typical Yamondazukawa, once you are able to put the spectre of imminent mechanical catastrophe out of your mind. You get the sensation that you are riding a barely-tamed stallion, a beast that you alone are capable of keeping reigned in. T.E. Lawrence had one of the finest summaries, which I won’t attempt to better:

“A skittish motorbike with a touch of blood in it is better than all the riding animals on earth, because of its logical extension of our faculties, and the hint, the provocation, to excess conferred by its honeyed untiring smoothness. Because Boa loves me, he gives me five more miles of speed than a stranger would get from him.”

I put on my gloves and throw my leg over, sitting on the machine and gently blipping the throttle as the temperature needle creeps up off the peg. My anxiety is melting away now as the thrum of the engine vibrates through my body. The basso profundo sound of a barely muffled Italian twin reverberates around me, bouncing off the concrete walls. The intake pulses are channeled through the fuel tank into my stomach. The temperature is over 140 now, time to go. I pull in the clutch, flip up the sidestand, and click the motor into gear. I am at complete ease now as I roll out of the garage into the sharp autumn air.

My anxiety is gone and I feel at home.  My journey begins.

Ducati 916 New England

Critics

Before I set out on this trip, I encountered a few naysayers. The whole "asking people for money to ride my bike" bit ruffled some feathers and incited some minor backlash from people who didn't understand the "funding articles" element of the campaign - a backlash which I anticipated but still didn't enjoy. It's the principal reason I was reluctant to even start a crowdsourcing campaign, because I expected nothing but negative feedback. In the end I got far more positive support than negative, but hearing cutting remarks from Internet Tough Guys is still unpleasant and weighs more heavily on your conscience than the dozen or so pats on the back you received prior to that. Motorcycle culture has long had a dichotomy behind the scenes - on one side you have massively friendly folks who will give their left fork leg to help out a rider, on the other you have the self-absorbed aloof jackasses who play up the outmoded antisocial outlaw biker image. There is an easy litmus test to determine which category someone falls into - the former waves, the latter doesn't.

I've learned not to mention my motorcycle adventures to my colleagues at work: misguided and patronizing advice based on ignorance gets real old, real fast. I made the mistake of sharing my cross-USA trip plans and was promptly bombasted with tales of terror about how I was going to be run off the road and murdered in the USA, and how I couldn't set foot outside after dark, and I was going to be stabbed in the ass by gangs of roving ass-stabbing muggers who prowled the back streets. These are the typical Canadian fears and boogeymen: there is a genuine sense that as soon as you cross the border things turn into a cross between a Wild West frontier and Mad Max lawless dystopia, with certain death awaiting innocent Canadians who made a wrong turn at the Seven Eleven. I rolled my eyes and kept quiet, as I knew it probably wouldn't be worth mentioning that this isn't the first time I've ridden my bike through the US, being the dumb-punk-kid-who-doesn't-know-any-better that I am. I've always found it funny how people who don't ride are just brimming with bad advice for motorcycle riders.

I'm exaggerating for the purpose of storytelling, of course, but the ass-stabbing caution did come up in earnest. As did dire warnings of hurricanes and hillbillies the moment I crossed the Mason-Dixon line.     

Once again I am reminded of Peter Egan's adventure by Norton: 

"Skeptics, heretics and hooters were everywhere, like some chorus in a Greek tragedy, portending ill for their flawed and heedless hero. I finally quit telling people about the trip and made plans with my wife in the privacy of our own living room."

So it was that I kept my plans to myself, sharing only with the loyal readers of OddBike.

New York State

New York

Pulling out of the parking garage I'm greeted with the low sun of dawn and a piercing 5 degree (celsius) morning. It takes a few moments for the icy fingers of cold to begin poking through my gear after exiting the warm garage, but the fog on the inside of my visor leaves no doubt - it is fucking cold out. Not that I haven't ridden in colder temperatures (I think every Canadian rider has done at least one sub-zero jaunt. Or at least I hope I'm not the only idiot who has) but it is something that I will never get used to. No matter how many layers of gear I wear, or how thick my gloves are, I will never feel at ease unless the temps are above 15 degrees. All the more reason to ride as far south as I can manage as quickly as possible.

The US border into New York state is only about 40 miles south of Montreal. Many local riders will head over to NY or Vermont to take advantage of the perfectly manicured US backroads through the Adirondacks. I certainly don't blame them, the roads in Quebec are legendarily awful, carefully maintained in a perfect state of disrepair by half-assed union workmanship, municipal corruption, and mob skimming. 

Passing through US customs, I understand why the locals frequent the US. The agent takes my passport, types my name in the computer, stares at the screen for 15 seconds before handing me back my documents and wishing me a good ride. No questions, no "what is your business in the USA?" or "how long is your stay?" or "are you now, or ever have been, a member of the Al Qaeda network?". Just a quick check and off you go, have fun in our land of freedom and cheeseburgers. A lot of Canadian provinces could learn a thing or two from the process - like welcoming riders and their tourist dollars, instead of alienating them with draconian law enforcement and noise laws.

Ducati 916 in Autumn Upstate New York

The weather is clear for the first 100 miles into New York but soon gives way to a light rain. Fortunately I was smart enough to pack a rain suit. Unfortunately I'm not smart enough to take my boots off before slipping the pants on, and I promptly tear a hole in the left leg. A seasoned touring rider I am not. I do my best to look dignified on the side of the Interstate, hopping around on one foot while I stretch the slightly-too-small rain suit over my pants, all while cursing the shoddy material that ripped like crepe paper the moment I put my leg in it.

I veer off the Interstate near Albany to get gas and end up on a secondary road that runs parallel to where I was heading... Time to modify the route and take a scenic detour. The rain is subsiding now, leaving a dark sheen on the brightly coloured leaves that are unmistakably of the "Northeast in Fall" colour palette - vibrant but subdued, and stunning in mid-autumn at the moment the leaves begin to fall. I ride through Hudson and the surrounding towns, passing through some of the most pitch-perfect New England neighbourhoods you could imagine. Stuff straight off the pages of Martha Stewart Living: Colonial and Cape Cod architecture preserved in a sympathetic but authentic way, surrounded by a flawless fall landscape. A few people have put out early Halloween decorations. Pumpkins dot the picturesque front porches. Burnt orange leaves falls gently and swirl around me as I ride though small communities that are simultaneously beautiful and eerie, like the opening of a horror movie where the idyllic community and its blissfully ignorant denizens are introduced before things turn into a bloodbath. I imagine Michael Myers hiding behind a tree, knife at the ready. Maybe I've been watching too many slasher flicks.

Fall in Upstate New York


My destination is a private residence owned by a wealthy motorcycle enthusiast who retired from banking before the capital-C Clusterfuck in 2008 with enough cash to live out his dreams. I knew of him through a friend and had heard tell of his private motorsports wonderland in the rolling hills of upstate New York, but I still didn't really know what to expect. I had never met him before, but my friend had given me a good recommendation and the fellow was kind enough to offer me a place to stay for the night.

I arrive at a motorised gate, just in time to meet the full-time mechanic, Peter, as he returns from a parts run. He quizzes me to a bit, having not been informed of my arrival. Apparently I seem harmless enough, and he leads me into the property. A one-lane road forks and runs to the various buildings - the main house, a guest house, the garage and workshop, the private 1.1 mile racetrack. Oh, I forgot to mention that part. This man has built a racetrack in his front yard. Now that he is retired, he has dedicated himself to a career in racing - his passion began with bikes but migrated to open-cockpit cars once his first daughter was born and he wanted something a bit safer. I won't pretend to understand the intricacies of the categories he races in, but suffice to say he has some impressive four-wheeled equipment at his disposal and he is doing quite well as a privateer. His ultimate goal is to race at Le Mans, a noble endeavour that I salute. The world needs more enthusiastic privateers nipping at the heels of the factory efforts, but it is becoming increasingly difficult given the level of technology and funding needed to participate in modern racing. He has the advantage of private wealth, but money isn't a substitute for proficiency, and he hones his skills right here in front of his country house.

Private Race Track

Peter brings me to the main motorcycle building. We enter through the workshop where a few machines are lined up - a couple of race-prepped GSX-R 600s, a half-assembled shifter kart, a Ninja 250. He hands me a legal waiver to sign. Having a racetrack on your property presents its own set of legal challenges, apparently.

Dream Garage

He flicks on the lights in the adjacent room. I instantly set eyes upon a pristine Bimota V-Due. Around it was a room full of obscenely rare motorcycles, with a few interesting cars slotted in among them. I think I stood there frozen for nearly a minute, unable to react to what I was looking at. It took me a while to regain my composure and start wandering through the rows of bikes. I realise what I am looking at is my personal dream garage, with almost every bike I have ever desired sitting in front of me. I realise that here is someone who has almost the same taste as I do, but who has earned the wealth to fulfill his dreams.

Bimota Tesi 1D

Bimota is one of my favourite brands, but they have never been homologated for sale in Canada. I have only seen one Bimota in my life, a restored KB1 that was being exhibited in a Toronto vintage bike show. Now I am looking at nearly all of them in a single room. I can barely take it all in. The V-Due is one of my all time favourite machines and was the first bike I profiled on OddBike. But there is also a Tesi 1D, tucked in beside a Ducati 851 Tricolore.  Here's a DB1, DB2, even the infamous Mantra. Most of the SB, YB and HB machines are represented as well. And there are the perfectly restored Ducati bevel head singles and twins, and the Honda RC45, the Dakar-prepped Cagiva Elefant.

Cagiva Elefant Dakar

Then you go upstairs, where you find more Bimotas lined up with Laverdas and a few odd machines, including a first-series Hesketh V1000. I run around madly snapping photos and taking in the details of machines I'd only ever read about, barely able to process what I'm seeing. The owner, Alan, has been profiled in the past but mainly for his four-wheeled endeavours. I was floored by his collection of motorcycles, which had always been ignored by the car-centric press who wouldn't know a NR750 from a Gold Wing.

Honda Oval Piston NR750

I chat with Peter for a while, sharing the usual motorcycle shop talk. Swapping stories, talking bikes. Peter is a seasoned motorcycle mechanic who worked mainly on Japanese machine before being hired by Alan. He still runs his own repair business on the side, while working as Alan's Crew Chief and Motorsports Director. While his speciality is bikes, Alan has slowly introduced more and more car-related work into his schedule, much to Peter's dismay. There is a big disconnect between cars and bikes when it comes to mechanical work, and it is rare to see a professional mechanic who can do both equally well. Bike guys usually look at cars with disdain, and vice versa. Since getting into motorcycles 10 years ago I've become less and less impressed with cars, a contrast to the youthful enthusiasm I had as an adolescent reading the buff mags and rags. In fact I haven't owned a car in 4 years, and have zero desire to get another one.

Hesketh V1000

So I understand Peter's position perfectly, and I feel a little sorry for him - particularly considering the calibre of machines sitting in front of me, most of which are static and would need some significant prep work to get running. There are only three or four that are in a ready-to-ride state. I was disappointed that most of the bikes weren't being used regularly, but not really surprised given the quantity on hand - there is only so much riding one man and a few of his friends can accomplish, even with a private racetrack in your yard.

Motorcycle Dream Garage

Alan arrives. He is a flurry of energy, going madly off in all directions. I introduce myself and sheepishly compliment him on his facilities, and thank him for hosting me. Between unloading his car and firing off questions at Peter (I think the topic of the day was gearbox options for an LMP car, but they lost me pretty quickly), Alan takes a few moments to begin describing his passion for Italian machines and how he began collecting bikes. He has an infectious childlike enthusiasm. Here is a man who is having fun and living out his dreams, with every toy he has ever wanted at his disposal. He is passionate, friendly and lively. I cannot picture him in the banking industry.

Guest House

He sets me up in the guest house, a beautiful open building set on the shore of the private lake adjacent to the main house. The bedroom I am staying in is only slightly smaller than my entire Montreal apartment.

As quickly as he arrives, Alan is gone, off running errands around the property. I drop off my stuff and  get a tour of the property from Peter. We hop into a side by side Polaris ATV and ride around the wooded trails surrounding the estate, then up onto the ridge overlooking the lake and the track. We drive around the track, which is a tight and technical circuit that has no real straightaways. It was designed by Alan with some input from Keith Code, and was intended as a bike track - the cars came later, but were equally at home. It's basically a perfectly maintained canyon road in front of your house, with zero traffic and safe runoffs. In fact Alan has given up street riding entirely for the safety of the track, something that might seem surprising to non-riders (A track? Safe?) but is quite common among sport riders who get sick of close calls, rough pavement, absent minded drivers, and LEO attention.

Guest House

I retire to the guest house in the evening, feeling a bit ill at ease in this environment. While I work in a luxury industry I come from a simple background. Aside from the race track and the motorcycle collection Alan's property is reasonably modest and not at all ostentatious, but still intimidating for a simple person like myself. I also feel slightly guilty - I don't know Alan personally and don't want to be an ungrateful mooch taking advantage of his hospitality. I am extremely grateful that he has opened his home to me, but I am not entirely at ease. The beautiful but awkward furniture doesn't help - everything is "form before function" where the pieces looks impressive but weren't designed to be sat upon by human beings. I suppose you could say the same thing about a lot of bikes.

Private Lake

The well-stocked beer fridge in the guest house helps me relax. I forgot to bring anything for dinner and don't dare ask my hosts for food, so I resign myself to Rolling Rock and beef jerky from my snack stash. I take my notes for the day and do my online business, updating my readers on the journey through Facebook on my iPod. This will become my nightly ritual - relaxing, scribbling out the days events and thoughts, and tossing a few pictures onto Facebook to let everyone know I'm still alive. I manage to figure out the impossibly complicated centralised media system and spend the evening watching a Military Channel documentary marathon on fighter aces. A good start to the OddBike USA Tour.

It was fortunate that I had this opportunity to unwind in luxurious surroundings, given what I had in store the next day.

Dream Garage Ducatis
   

OddBike USA Tour: Part III - Southward Bound

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Private race track.

Part III of the OddBike USA Tour Travelogue. Click here for Part I and Part II

Pennsylvania

I wake up at dawn the next day to clear skies and mild temperatures, a marked improvement from the previous day's conditions. It gave me the opportunity to wander the property in silence and take some better photos of the track and the estate. I adhered to the Lone Canuck stereotype, rising early and quietly taking in the beauty of the natural surroundings in the morning light while everyone else slept. Nobody needs to know that I was also checking my emails. I'll just let you imagine me silently gliding across a mist covered lake in a birch bark canoe, nobly surveying my surroundings.

Alan's property is situated on rolling hills surrounded by picturesque farmland and modest houses. While his buildings are far from ostentatious, his setup is a significant step above the nearby homes (even without the track). There certainly must have been a bit of jealousy involved when the local community took him to court to block his plans to build a race track, citing noise, safety, and zoning concerns. He eventually won after a lengthy legal battle, but the point was made that the neighbours were not impressed. The nearby Interstate makes far more racket than activity on the track ever would, so as far as I'm concerned the noise argument is a moot point. In any case they maintain a 7 pm curfew on track activity.
Property in Upstate New York.


Tempted though I was to try out the track, I abstained. I have no track experience and did not want to tempt fate at the outset of a long journey using my only mode of transportation. The track wasn't exactly a go-kart loop either - it's a highly complex course with blind corners, sharp transitions, tricky camber and elevation changes, and a narrow surface. Peter noted that despite a great deal of experience and the short length he still finds it a proper challenge. I took that as reason enough not to try my luck. "I am a Road Person", I thought to myself, paraphrasing Hunter S. Thompson in my head.
Property in Upstate New York.

I packed up my gear and prepared to set out. My next destination was a state park just past Harrisburg, Pennsylvania.

My rough planning set out a goal of approximately 300-350 miles per day, about the upper limit of comfortable riding for me on the 916. Most Ducati Superbike owners would cringe at the idea of going more than 50 miles, but after riding the thing for seven years I've grown accustomed to the seating position and 200-300 mile days are easy. You must learn to hold your weight up with your core muscles and keep the pressure off your wrists - that's proper sport riding technique anyway. Keeping a limitless stock of ibuprofen is also a good idea. The last time I did a properly long trip on this bike I ran a couple of 600 mile days to make up time, and vowed never to make that mistake again. Coincidentally I took up smoking as a daily habit right around that time I rode to Cape Breton and back.

The motorcycle museum.

My routes were fairly direct, mostly interstate. Nothing exciting, as I had to be in Alabama in five days and I didn't have time to explore too many backroads. That being said I left a certain amount of leeway in my planning to allow for some exploring, alternate routes, or dealing with the unforeseen. Being the luddite that I am I relied on my tried-and-true method of navigation - printing routes off Google Maps and scribbling pace notes on scraps of paper to stuff into the top of my tankbag. I mapped out the entire journey well in advance, but without making any prior reservations so I could just do whatever the hell I wanted and not worry about being in East Blunderfudge County by 5pm for check-in at the Bates motel.

So it was that on Monday morning I looked at my map and said "fuckit" and redrew my route westward to avoid passing through southern New York and New Jersey.

It seemed like a good idea at the time. After all, the Interstate was going to take me close to New York City and that sounded like a recipe for horrific traffic. I scribbled a new western route on the map and hit the road around 8am with the sun shining and the temperature in the teens.

Upstate New York property.

I cut south along the Taconic State Parkway then west along I-84, with nothing much to note except a horrific car wreck being cleaned up by State Troopers. Soon I crossed into Pennsylvania, and things started getting interesting.

By this point the sky had clouded over and the temperature had started dropping noticeably. That pleasant fall morning was giving way to bleary grey day that is misery to ride through, particularly on dull Interstate routes. Just as I pulled into a sleepy off-highway community for gas it started raining. Damn. Time to squeeze into the rain suit and look like a dolt hopping around on the side of the road. Again.

I filled up and headed back for the freeway, sliding my front end across the thickly-painted centrelines. Sometimes I think my lack of reaction time makes me appear more skilled than I actually am. The best reaction to a squirrelly machine is usually no reaction, maintaining steady input and a relaxed grip on the controls. Before I have time to react the front regains traction and I continue on my merry way as if I had intended to slither sideways across the road -meanwhile I was secretly thanking whatever combination of luck, physics and chassis dynamics had managed to keep me from lowsiding in the middle of a small Pennsylvania town.

Rain in Pennsylvania

Things soon went from bad to worse. I quickly discovered that unlike many US states, Pennsylvania has utterly atrocious roads that rival Quebec for their sheer filling-rattling, suspension-bottoming, rim-mangling treacherousness. I ran into one stretch that had longitudinal crevices running for miles at a time, where the road had chipped away under the wheel ruts in the lanes. The first section I absent-mindedly rode straight into sent my steering into a full lock-to-lock tankslapper - something that has never occurred before on my Ducati. If the road is bad enough to send a 916 into a pants-wetting headshake, you know you are dealing with some seriously bad surfacing.

Then came the grooved pavement, which combined with the rain and steady traffic made the next 20 miles absolutely terrifying. The bike was weaving significantly on the deep grooves and I could feel that I had barely any traction across the slick graded surface. I kept my distance from cars and my inputs gentle as I skated across the pavement. Fun it was not.

The weather cleared briefly and I stopped in Scranton for lunch before heading south on I-81. When I left the restaurant a local fellow commented that I was about to get hit with some serious weather. I smiled and said "oh I know, I passed through it on the way here"

Problem was that wasn't the weather they were referring to, which I soon found out the hard way.

Leaving Scranton the rain started again, but this time it meant business. Within a few miles conditions went from shower to torrential deluge with strong winds. Visibility was down to less than a hundred feet. When I lost sight of the tailights of the car I was following, I had a pang of realization: if I can't see the car in front of me, the guy behind me sure as hell can't see my worthless Italian brake lights. I turned on my turn signals and desperately scanned for the nearest exit to get the hell off the Interstate until visibility improved.

Motorcycles waiting out the rain in Pennsylvania.

I spotted a couple of Harleys parked at the nearest underpass, and pulled up behind them. As I got off the bike one of the riders walked up to me and greeted me in French. A bit stunned to hear anything other than English in Pennsylvania, I glanced at their license plates: New Brunswick. My home province. I greeted them and told them I was from NB as well. They asked me where I was from, and holy small world it turned out we were all from Moncton. We exchanged pleasantries and sat down to wait out the rain.

After a few minutes I got tired of waiting and hit the road again, wishing my hometown compatriots well on their journey. They seemed a bit stunned to meet another Canadian on the road, particularly one riding an old Italian sport bike equipped with luggage, in the rain, claiming he was heading for New Orleans. That would become the most common reaction I would encounter when I met people along the way and informed them where I had come from and where I was heading. I'd be lying if I didn't enjoy the shock value of the trip and my poor choice of equipment.

The rain is steady but not as violent as before. Visibility is acceptable but now I'm properly soaked, as is the bike. I had the good sense to install waterproof liners in my luggage, which happened to look remarkably like the clear plastic trash bags they give out for recycling in Montreal. The fact that Nelson-Riggs charges an extra 20$ for optional rain covers is laughable.

Funny enough I've never had issues with riding my Duc in the rain and do it quite regularly - one of the first things I did when I bought it was clean and grease every single electrical connection, a good bet to avoid the breeding of eye-talian gremlins. That being said the temperature gauge stopped working, the first of several problems I would encounter along the way.

I pulled off at Minerstown, a tiny town that looks exactly like you would imagine - a simple but tough looking little community surrounded by hills and winding roads. I encountered a State Trooper parked at the side of the road with gumballs lit, and was so distracted by his presence that I nearly ran straight into the foot-deep pond in the middle of the road that he was trying to warn people about.



I stopped at the town's sole gas station to fill up and warm up with a coffee. Sitting under the awning watching the rain fall and the locals come and go, one of the clerks came out to empty the trash and started chatting me up. She asked where I was heading. "Harrisburg, then Virginia tomorrow". She cocked her head and looked at me intensely "Are you crazy? There is a tornado warning!" Whoops, guess the weather was worse than I thought. I duly noted the warning, finished my coffee and hit the Interstate again. If I'm going to get sucked up by a twister, I'd prefer it to happen on the road, not sitting at a rural gas station twiddling my thumbs.

Sure enough a few miles down the road I realized why there was a tornado warning in effect. Riding along I suddenly felt a significant change in temperature, at least 5 degrees within the span of a few seconds. I had passed right across the barrier between two temperature fronts. These are the sorts of details you will miss while driving in a car. Motorcycling is always an intense sensory experience in ways that are not necessarily apparent.

At this point I've cancelled the plans for camping in my mind - what I desperately want at that moment is a hot shower and a hearty meal. I stop in Carlisle and grab an offramp hotel room, which is exorbitantly priced considering the beautiful location right within earshot of the interstate - I've paid less for suites downtown in major cities. But I am in no mood to hunt down a better deal (which is likely the basis of their entire pricing strategy) and resign myself to paying too much money, vowing I wouldn't make the same mistake twice - continental breakfast be damned.

After laying out my gear to dry and having that magnificent shower I was so desperately craving, I wander off in search of food. I find a simple pizza joint in a strip mall about a mile away and enjoy a slice of delicious grease-slicked pepperoni the size of my face with a root beer for less than 3 bucks. Two things strike you as remarkably cheap in the US when you are from Canada - food, and gas. In rural areas I was filling up for under 3$ a gallon, the most expensive places were around 3.80$. Listening to the locals complain about the high price of gas was cute when you are used to paying 1.40$ a litre for regular, which works out to 5.30$ per US gallon. And you guys thought 4 bucks was the end of the world.    
   
Virginia

The next day I wake up early and head down to raid the breakfast spread. I want to be damned sure I get my money's worth. Of course I don't, but I amuse myself making a rubbery waffle with a self-serve contraption, which is remarkably devoid of safety features considering how litigious American society supposedly is. I imagine a plaintiff appearing before the court, a crosshatch pattern branded into his forehead, his lawyer decrying the lack of warnings informing you not to stick you face into the waffle iron.

Ducati 916 leaving Pennsylvania.

I finish my mediocre breakfast and gear up for the day's ride. It's a cool, clear morning, looks like a good day of riding ahead after yesterday's awful weather. I load up my luggage and go to start the bike to let it warm up a bit before setting out. Key on, flick the fast idle button, stab the starter... Womp womp womp womp womp. No ignition. Cycle the key, listen for the fuel pump. Everything seems normal. Try again. Womp womp womp womp. Still nothing. I can smell fuel charge wafting out of the exhausts, which means I'm getting plenty of fuel - in fact I suspect it's getting too much, and it is probably flooded. This is a new problem. I generally don't ride in cold weather much and having the bike stored in a heated parking garage means I've never had to fire it up from dead cold after sitting outside overnight.

I am worried.

I pause and collect my thoughts, put on my helmet and adjust the saddlebags. After another minute I try again, this time the bike fires instantly and settles into its normal clattering idle. Definitely flooding the motor, once it had a chance to evaporate it started right up - but why is that? I let the bike warm up and hit the road, my mind turning over the problem that has now presented itself, many miles from home and still a long way from my destination.

Ducati 916 in Roanoke

The morning's ride is otherwise uneventful and takes me through Maryland, West Virginia, and into Virginia. The bike starts and appears to run fine once it is warmed up. Riding through Virginia my odometer clicks over to 34000 miles, exactly 1000 miles into my journey now. I notice a remarkable smell riding through the Shenandoah Valley - something like toasted vanilla with an undercurrent of honey that persisted for over 100 miles. It's subtle but unmistakable, and another example of those extra levels of resolution that riding a motorcycle reveals.

My next stop is Claytor Lake State Park, located off the Interstate just past Roanoke. After overpaying for my accommodations the previous night I'm quite determined to camp this time around.

Camping is one of those activities that I find immensely appealing in my mind, given sufficient time from the last instance of doing it. I need enough time to forget the miserable humid cold at night, the hard, rocky ground, and the bug-addled bathrooms (or shitting in the woods, depending on where you set up camp). Camping for me is a social activity better done with a group of friends and a case of beer (and a gallon of gasoline to keep the fire going). Solo camping is just an exercise in being cheap. I grew up in the country, so nature has a limited appeal for me given my familiarity with it. I enjoy it, I appreciate it, but I don't bow down to some imagined splendour and go camping to pay reverence to the magnificence of the Earth. Not after seeing some of the bugs that inhabit the forest floor. The only advantage to camping in my mind is entertaining your inner hillbilly by getting drunk, setting fires, and shooting guns (if circumstances allow). Unfortunately only one of these three options is available in a State Park, and I'm pretty sure they frown upon the high-test and old tire method of ignition.  

In any case it would be a shame to drag the extra weight of a tent and sleeping bag along with me and not use the damned things.

Ducati 916 in downtown Roanoke.

I stop in Roanoke to grab a snack and pick up something for supper. Driving along a double-nickle section of freeway I notice the bike is surging noticeably at steady throttle around 4000 rpm. Seems in line with my rich starting problem from the morning. Something is definitely amiss.

I head straight to the Claytor Lake after Roanoke and nab a camp site. The campground is well populated and not particularly woodsy. The surroundings are stunning, tall deciduous forests with hiking trails snaking through the leaf-blanketed landscape. But the campsites themselves look like off-highway RV parking lots, nothing more than gravel pits packed tight together in little clusters just off the main road. I was hoping for something a bit more... secluded, but I don't feel like exploring and looking for more remote sites.

Ducati 916 in Claytor Lake state park Virginia.

Once I've unpacked and erected the tent (a Eureka Solitaire, which gets high praise from me for being light, compact, and easy to setup) I get to work doing what every seasoned Ducati owner does best - troubleshooting issues on the side of the road (or campsite, as it were). I suspect that my rain riding might have caused some issues so I start going over the electrical connections, fuses and sensors to look for anything amiss. I discover a melted main fuse which was still functional despite looking like a piece of rock candy, and my coolant union had developed a crack along the mounting point which was cutting the ground to the temperature gauge. I tried to find a short that might explain the melted fuse but everything was clean and well greased. I replaced the cooked fuse and it would remain fine for the remainder of the trip. I suspect that one of the temperature sensors is causing my rich fueling issue, the coolant temperature switch being the most likely culprit as it has the greatest effect on the fuel mixture and has given me trouble in the past. But aside from cleaning the connector and checking the wiring there isn't much I can do at this point.

Ducati melted main fuse.

I notice a truck with Ontario plates parked in the lot next to mine, with a small trailer stowed nearby. An hour after I arrive I hear the distinctive rumble of a V-twin rolling into the camp, and I'm surprised to discover that my neighbour is arriving on a Suzuki SV650. I go up and introduce myself, telling him I wasn't expecting to meet another Canadian on two wheels out here. Turns out that he was on his way to Barber as well, but was being more sensible by driving the boring stretches with his bike in tow, then spending the afternoons exploring local backroads on the SV. Smart, but also a bit lacking in adventure if you ask me. As far as I am concerned a bike should only be carried on a trailer in two instances - when being delivered to a new owner, and when the engine internals have made a break for daylight.

The fellow turns out to be a veteran rider who has been on two wheels since the late 70s and has a great deal of experience in the sport. These are always fun guys to converse with, because they are always brimming with great stories from the road and have seen attitudes and perceptions shift over the decades. He helps me poke around the 916 a bit and lends me some tools, and offers a beer to help expedite the process. I finally give up troubleshooting for the evening and we sit down and start swapping stories.

Working on the Ducati.

Unfortunately, he exhibits the attitude I dread and try to avoid - the arrogant Canadian. This is the same attitude I encountered among my peers before setting out on the trip, which annoyed me to no end - judgmental attitudes towards Americans. This manifested itself when one of our lot neighbours came over to say hello. As he strode over to us, the fellow from Ontario muttered "oh shit, here comes the redneck" under his breath. The man greeted us and invited us to join his family for dinner and drinks. As he walked away my compatriot muttered "I don't want any fucking squirrel stew".

I was angry. This man had just opened his hearth to us and we could have gone over and made some new friends (not to mention gotten some good barbeque). But instead my fellow Canuck had let his prejudices come through, and it put a damper on the rest of the evening for me. Don't get me wrong, he was a great guy and was friendly and fascinating to talk to - with me, the other Canadian. But he clearly didn't want to associate with the locals, which left a bad taste in my mouth. Especially considering I come from an upbringing that would probably fit his "redneck" profile.

One thing I realized while travelling through the South was that it was remarkably familiar - it reminded me of the Maritimes, except with armadillos and funny accents. Simple, friendly, salt of the earth people. They may lack "sophistication" according to certain definitions but they aren't stupid or ignorant, and they certainly aren't threatening. I felt right at home, which is why the knee-jerk naivete of other Canadians before, during and after this journey seriously pissed me off. After spending two weeks down there I came away with a much higher opinion of the people and places in the South, and will never look at them the same way.

Besides, I'll bet squirrels are delicious.

Camping in Claytor Lake Virginia.

OddBike USA Tour: Part IV - Wheeling Through Time

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Ducati 916 Morning Fog

Part IV of the OddBike USA Tour Travelogue. Click here for Part IPart II and Part III

North Carolina

My sleep in Claytor Lake State Park is fitful and uncomfortable. The gravel base of the campsite pokes through my thin sleeping bag, so I resort to wearing my armored gear to pad me against the sharp underlay. I wake up an hour before dawn to a foggy, humid cold, the sort I dread whenever I go camping. It reminded me of camping in the Bay of Fundy one May when it would reach 25 degrees during the day and fall to low single digits at night - a despicable contrast that lures you into comfort during the day before cruelly taking it away every night. It's the kind of wet cold that chills you far more than the actual temperature would suggest, and leaves a thick coating of ice-cold condensation on everything left in the open. That included my boots, which I had put outside the tent to avoid fumigating my tiny quarters with my pungent road foot odour. I had thought that by the time I passed Pennsylvania I would have encountered warmer temperatures, but neglected to note that at night it still gets damned cold in the mountains along the Appalachian Trail.



Fog in Claytor Lake State Park

I quietly pack up my tent and gear by flashlight, waiting for the first light of dawn before I set out. I am the only one awake in the campground, aside from the annoying dog in the lot to my left who would start barking viciously anytime a twig snapped. Once the light begins filtering through the trees I am greeted by the eerie sight of a dense, grey fog blanketing the forest and obscuring the treetops. It is beautiful. But that doesn't mitigate my hatred of that damnable wet cold.

Morning fog

The bike seems to share my sentiments, and is particularly unwilling to start on this morning. That was when I realized I had a problem. If temperatures kept dropping I'd have a hell of a time getting this thing running each morning, so I had to figure out what the issue was and fix it before heading home. I spend several minutes playing with the starter, pausing for 30 second intervals between each attempt. Slowly it would begin coughing and lighting a few times before stalling. After about 5 minutes of finagling it finally bursts into life and settles into a 2000 rpm fast idle, just like the day before in Pennsylvania - once the stars were aligned and the cylinders sufficiently primed but not overly flooded one stab of the starter button would start it instantly and it would run as if there was no problem at all.
Fog in the treetops

This, of course, started rousing the neighbours. I didn't wait long before slipping away, lest I raise the ire of the other campers who got a basso profundo Italian wake-up call at 6 in the morning. Incidentally Sil Moto makes a dandy set of slip-ons. Time to go.

Heading back towards the Interstate to continue my journey I get caught in that thick fog that was descending from the treetops. My visibility was cut to almost nil. Top tip: I was using anti-fog lens cleaning solution to wipe the bugs off my visor and it turned out to be very effective in cold weather, more than any combination of breath guards and anti-fog visors I have used in the past. Still didn't change the fact I couldn't see shit and I was freezing my ass off, but I continued on.
Leaving Claytor Lake

Rather than keep going along I-81 I take a gamble and follow the signs to North Carolina along I-77. Once my hands are properly frozen I pull of at a rural truck stop near the state line to verify my route and grab a cup of coffee. The clerk seemed puzzled by someone asking for directions, apparently this isn't common in the modern era of GPS and smartphones, neither of which I use. She spends a minute rooting around behind the counter before pulling out a dusty road atlas. It clearly had been used a lot in the past, the pages well worn and the binding separated into several parts. But it must have been years since it was last referred to. We map out a route to my next destination, the Wheels Through Time Museum in Maggie Valley, located just past Waynesville near the Tennessee border. Satisfied that I was not lost and now had some semblance of knowing where I was going, I grab a coffee and wait for the fog to dissipate.

As I step out of the station I discover a local man intently examining my bike. He is a lanky fellow wearing black, dusty coveralls, standing next to a clapped-out GMC Sonoma loaded with logs and junk. He quizzes me about the bike - who makes it, where is it from, where are you from, where are you heading, never seen one of those before. I fire it up for him and rev it a few times, always a good way to surprise people unfamiliar with Ducatis - when most people see a sleek, beautiful Italian sport bike they don't expect it to sound like the illegitimate love child of a hyperactive Harley and a concrete mixer full of pennies. 

He is indeed a local, hailing from Floyd VA, which he describes as a "one stoplight town". Despite his backwoodsy appearance he is clearly very intelligent and well spoken. We chat for a few minutes about various topics while he tops off the oil in his truck. He is a perfect example of the sort of simple living but clever person that most city folk would immediately dismiss as an ignorant redneck. He is a character I am very familiar with, having grown up in rural New Brunswick. You don't need a university education to be smart, and I have met plenty of people who were bag-of-bricks dumb but still managed to quote-unquote "earn" a diploma. Having gotten my education and learned how truly worthless an arts degree can be firsthand I have a particular respect for honest labour and genuine intelligence that transcends book learnin'. He wishes me well and drives off. Once again the judgmental naysayers I encountered before setting out are proven wrong. The people down here are great, I'd even say far friendlier than the average Quebecker (perhaps that isn't saying much).

Ducati at rest stop in North Carolina

I head for Statesville and transfer onto the I-40, which begins a slow climb high into the Appalachians. The fog has cleared and the sun is shining, and the temperature is finally starting to become mild and comfortable. Heading towards Asheville the road twists and snakes steadily higher, each break in the treeline revealing a more spectacular vista than the last. It may be a major divided highway, but holy hell is it beautiful. I wish there were some opportunities to pull off and take in the views, but once you start climbing there are no rest stops or overlooks - only ominous runaway truck ramps, some of which appear to have been recently used. It's a sobering thought as I cruise along, passing heavily laden semis chugging up and down the steep grades, hazard lights flashing. The truck traffic along US highways is quite remarkable. Of course we have lots of semis on the road in Canada, but not nearly this much. The roads in the US are clogged with them, many barreling along at 5 or 10 mph over the speed limit. They have no hesitation in cutting across traffic to pass slower vehicles, myself included. That's not mentioning the retreads ("road alligators" as one man I met eloquently put it) that litter the highways - I had four retreads come off in front of me over the course of the journey, along with one violent blowout that rained shards of rubber and steel belt over the highway. It's good practice for your evasive counter-steering technique when you have to weave through the remains of a 200 pound truck tire at 70 miles a hour while surrounded by traffic.

Rest stop in North Carolina

The road becomes tighter and tighter as the elevation increases, prompting a few "whoa shit" moments when I misjudge the radius of some turns and begin drifting wide. Take away the traffic and this make a fun hillclimb event, the high-speed Interstate equivalent of Pikes Peak.

It's mid-afternoon when I arrive in Maggie Valley, a town that is definitely deserving of its name. A single street flanked by houses, campgrounds, gas stations, motels and restaurants cuts straight through two tall ridges that rise steeply on either side. I stop for a late lunch at a little Italian restaurant off the main road (where else would it be?) before heading to the Wheels Through Time to meet the owner, Dale Walksler.

Camping in front of the Wheels Through Time Museum

The museum is in the heart of Maggie Valley, separated from the road by a babbling brook spanned by a wooden bridge. There are two driveways leading into the front gate, whose purpose I immediately understand as I miss the first one and brake hard to veer into the second. It is Wednesday so the museum is closed to the public, but Dale had graciously promised me space to setup my tent and had assured me that someone would be around to let me in. I hang around the metal gate for a few minutes, wondering what the procedure for entry is - I notice a few bikes gathered in front of the museum, which looks like a large, nondescript warehouse. One couple leaves on a Harley and I slip through the gate after they depart. A middle-aged gentleman is sitting on the porch of a small house next to the entry gate, talking intensely on his cell phone. I presume this must be Dale. I park my bike behind the group of machines lined up on the front lawn and patiently wait for him to finish his conversation. I ask one of the riders present what is going on, and it turns out they are part of a RoadRUNNER touring event, and have riders from all over the US meeting in Maggie Valley to explore the nearby Blue Ridge routes.

I have a sudden lightbulb moment. The Blue Ridge Parkway. Supposedly some of the best riding roads in Eastern North America. My father had been talking about riding the Parkway for years, and I had ridden right into the middle of it without even realizing it. I made a mental note to plan a detour onto the sideroads on my way home - I was running a tight schedule on my way south, but I would have time to explore a bit on the way back. It would be a shame to ride straight through and not take the time to see what the fuss was about. In fact it would be downright idiotic not to check it out.  

Dale finishes his conversation and I introduce myself. He welcomes me into the museum and gives me free run of the place while he continues his business. He is clearly a man much in demand, his phone ringing steadily while the people around him vie for his attention in the brief moments between calls. He exudes energy and confidence. My first impression of Dale is of a classic American salesman, a charming and smooth talking gentleman who always knows the right thing to say and always has a quotable colloquial saying at the ready for every situation. He is almost like a movie or television character made real, his dialogue perfectly crafted. It's no surprise he has his own TV show on Velocity called "What's in the Barn?". But he is much more than that, and to not see past the fast-talking facade would be to do him injustice. He is a limitless fount of knowledge, a man who can describe the story behind any machine or widget in his collection with such passion that you know he genuinely appreciates the item and the story behind it. He is one of the best curators of American automotive and motorcycling lore and history in the country. He is honest, direct, and likable - the genuine article.

Wheels Through Time Harley Davidsons

I walk into the museum, a huge open space that is utterly overwhelming. Bikes are lined up bar end to bar end, walls and cabinets packed to capacity with memorabilia, curiosities, literature, spare parts, toys, engines - anything and everything Americana is here, and it is staggering. You simply can't take it all in, your senses are totally overwhelmed by the sheer amount of stuff in front of you. And it isn't a pile of junk amassed by a well-heeled hoarder - it is well organized and easy to navigate, and you could see everything given sufficient time and concentration. There are carefully constructed recreations of old shops and vignettes that frame the machines and give them context. There is a nice mix of perfectly restored and completely original machines, Dale's specialty being finding untouched bike and sympathetically repairing them while maintaining their patina. The rich smell of dust, oil, and gasoline permeates the air. Walking into the main hall for the first time I was flooded by memories of the Triumph shop I worked for - that old-workshop smell is distinctive and unforgettable, and it was the first time I had encountered it since I quit my mechanic's gig in 2007.

More Harleys at Wheels Through Time

There is good reason that smell is present - Wheels Through Time's motto is "The Museum That Runs". Nearly every machine in the collection is kept in ready-to-ride condition, and Dale is proud to wander the hall and start up bikes for visitors - if he doesn't take something out for a spin around the property. He's also been known to give hair-raising sidecar rides. That distinctive smell can only be the result of living machines, not static ones. A drip pan accompanies each bike, suggesting vital fluids reside within. The first few minutes I'm there Dale nonchalantly fires up a Henderson four in front of me with one smooth kick. He has probably run that bike hundreds of times, but I've never seen one in person, let alone heard it chug along and inhaled the acrid exhaust fumes produced by a nearly century-old machine. It leaves a deep impression on me, and I realize what Dale is doing here in Maggie Valley is truly special, and a worthy pilgrimage for any rider who wants to smell and hear motorcycle history rather than just look at it.

Harley Davidson 1924 JDCA

I wander around, trying to take in all the detail that surrounds me. I take hundreds of photos, not only to document the experience but also to have a reference I can return to to better examine the nuances I might have missed. Here, standing in the museum, it simply is too much for me to process. I need time to digest what I am seeing, and pore over the photos with a clear mind so that I can eventually write an article that does justice to what Dale has created up here in the mountains.

Crocker Motorcycles at Wheels Through Time

Eventually Dale and I have time to chat, and he introduces me to his son Matt and the staff and friends of the museum. A white haired, bearded man walks in and asks loudly "who is the guy with the Ducati 916 with Canadian plates, luggage, and 34000 miles on the odometer?". I meet Joe, who has come here from Michigan to prepare for a friendly rivalry that will take place at Barber Motorsports Park on the weekend when he, Dale and Matt will go head to head on the track in the Century Race - only machines that are 100 years old or older are eligible. Joe informs me that he owned a 1996 916 Strada, a 955 SPA, and still owns a 1997 SPS, among several dozen other highly desirable machines. He is a skilled machinist and mechanic and participates in the legendary Motorcycle Cannonball Run, where pre-1930 machines run a 4150 mile route from Daytona Beach, Florida to Tacoma, Washington - it is the ultimate test of endurance and mechanical aptitude. Joe is just the man you would picture excelling at such challenges. He is quiet and reserved, but very observant and extremely knowledgeable. He has a calm, unhurried demeanor that is an interesting contrast to Dale's electric vibrancy.

Competition Harley Davidson Wheels Through Time

Joe and I talk shop while Dale continues to field and endless stream of calls between shooting spots for his TV show. I mention my dilemma with cold starting and rich running, and Joe comes up with some names to call for troubleshooting and parts. I call a few numbers and speak to a few people but am ultimately unable to obtain the coolant sensor - it is apparently one of those "things that never breaks" so most shops have never had one in stock. I find that funny, considering that this would be the second time I've had to replace mine. The consensus is that I'm on the right track, but finding a new sensor within a few days will be virtually impossible.

Harley Davidson Peashooters at Wheels Through Time

I meet the film and editing crew from Velocity and witness some behind the scenes action as they shoot material for the second season of "What's in the Barn?". If you've never watched the show, I highly recommend it. It's essentially Dale and Matt running around the USA investigating old bikes, cars, parts hordes, and generally being mechanical archaeologists digging up rare machines in barns and garages around the country. There is nothing else like it on TV, and it is far from the overwrought and melodramatic "reality" shows that hog the limelight - it's genuine, interesting, and fun, and each episode has some of Dale's interesting historical tidbits to share.

Indian-powered light airplane at Wheels Through Time

I set up camp in the front yard of the museum. Dale offers to pay for a hotel room, but I decline - he has been generous enough by offering me the space to camp and welcoming me into the museum after hours. Besides, the weather is nice, the locale is interesting, and I don't want to look like too much of a wuss. I do accept his offer for dinner though - he sends me, Joe and the film crew out for food and drink at his favourite local restaurant - Hurley's, located just down the road from the museum. I fail miserably at finishing a massive pork tenderloin while enjoying a fantastic micro-brewed porter.

Military motorcycles at Wheels Through Time Museum

We return to the museum and Cindy, who lives on the property, is kind enough to lend me some blankets to cope with the cool mountain air. Joe fetches a foam mat from his truck and I'm just about ready to build a fire and turn in for the night when I get word that the guys have invited me over to the workshop. I head around the back of the museum and walk into the real heart of the operation - the restoration shop. Here is where Dale and Matt tinker, service, repair and restore their machines, and it is a mecca for anyone interested in vintage American iron. Harley and Indian parts are piled high on the workbenches, and several interesting machines are in various states of disassembly on the lifts. There are two centrepieces before me - Joe's 1913 Harley Davidson V-twin, and Matt's... 1913 Harley Davidson V-twin. They are sister machines, identical aside from the level of patina. Matt's is well aged and retains an oily rag finish, while Joe's is clean and well preserved with mostly intact ghost-grey paint and white tires. Matt is setting up his ride and making last minute adjustments before the weekend's race, which has long been dominated by Dale and his various Indian entries - this year he will be using the same 1912 he won the 2012 event with. It is a classic American rivalry, one that the Velocity team was keen to exploit for the episode they are currently working on.

American board trackers Wheels Through Time Museum

I am happy to be a fly on the wall for the proceedings, examining the mechanicals and asking a few questions but otherwise staying out of their way while they try to sort out a fuel starvation issue. Dale hops up onto the lift and declares he is going to get it running. I hurriedly dig out my camera and proceed to videotape my first encounter with a living, breathing antique Harley.


It is a furious, sputtering, clattering symphony of mechanical racket that is new to me but also familiar. It's a bit eerie to stand there, watching Dale furiously pedal the thing to life, seeing the pushrods chattering away, oil spitting off the exposed valve gear, and hear a sound that is unmistakably "Harley" despite being a century old. That characteristic offbeat rhythm of a 45 degree twin is unmistakable, and persists in the Motor Company's modern machines. I could go on, but I don't want to sound like some HD purist who draws a straight line of heritage across the decades to the current lineup without a hint of irony. I respect their history and the success of their past models on the road and the track, but I will never use that history to excuse stagnant design. I don't want a modern throwback to the good ol' days of glories past (passed?), I'd rather have the real deal: the fire-spitting oil-flinging bicycle with a motor attached I have chugging away in front of me. This is a genuine Harley Davidson, not the product of a marketing department cooked up in a boardroom meeting. I suspect Dale, Matt and Joe have the same idea.

Antique motorcycles Wheels Through Time

The guys encounter a fuel starvation issue and fiddle with the machine for some time before retiring for the night. Everyone heads to bed and I settle into my cozy tent on the front lawn, my clothes retaining the scent of burnt oil and exhaust fumes. It is time to get a good night's rest. Tomorrow I ride to Birmingham.

Antique motorcycles Wheels Through Time Museum

OddBike USA Tour: Part V - Alabama Bound

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Ducati in Maggie Valley North Carolina

Part V of the OddBike USA Tour Travelogue. Click here for Part IPart IIPart III, and Part IV

Alabama

Thursday morning is sunny and cool, but appreciably warmer than it had been in Virginia. We are finally making progress in terms of temperature, the one element I hoped to escape quickly once I had started riding south. I wake at sunrise and walk around the Wheels Through Time property, taking photos of the beautiful surroundings as the light of dawn creeps into the valley.

I pack up my tent and gear, but I'm in no hurry today. Up until this point I had been hitting the road just after sunrise and arriving at my destination in the early afternoon. Today I want to take my time. I wander around the museum again, taking in some more of the endless details that I had missed on my whirlwind approach the previous day. I meet Jack, one of the museum employees, when I'm raiding the coffee pot and planning a route to Birmingham. I had originally thought about going east through the Smoky Mountains, then south through Tennessee, but he suggests a quicker route through Georgia. Later on I would discover his advice was quite sound, given how technical my original route proved to be.

Babbling brook Maggie Valley North Carolina


I quickly discover that Jack is as much a part of the museum collection as he is a caretaker of it. I don't mean that in a facetious way, so please don't misinterpret my description - I mean he is a piece of true American motorcycling history himself, a veteran rider who has seen it all, done it all, and been on both sides of the law. He started riding in the late 1940s, secretly racing borrowed bikes at the local fairgrounds. He shares stories that could be lifted straight out of a pulp novel, riding and fighting with regional outlaw gangs before leaving once the big boys from Oakland showed up to clean house and take over the territory. He is a fascinating man who has lived through the significant changes that have occurred in motorcycle culture over the decades. But he is more than a conduit of Americana - he is intelligent, wizened with experience, and has a friendly progressive attitude. I wish I had had more time to talk to him and listen to his stories.

So if you find yourself at the museum, take the time to chat with Jack for an unfiltered first-hand history lesson. And not just him, as every member of the staff - Dale, Matt, Trish, Cindy and anyone else I may have missed - is a genuine, stand up person. These are the people who are passionate about what they do and what they curate, and it shows.    

Joe Gardella in the Wheels Through Time workshop

Around 10am I'm ready to go. Despite the initial anxieties I described in Part II, once I am in the midst of a journey I can't wait to hit the road again and see where it takes me next. This trip in particular brought forth my intense wanderlust as each day was more incredible than the last, each destination more interesting than the previous one. I was itching to fire up the bike and get going again to see what would happen next.

Babbling brook Maggie Valley

Of course I now had to deal with that damnable cold starting problem - but now with an audience. Wheels Through Time is a popular destination and people began streaming in as soon as the gates opened, so by mid-morning there was a sizeable crowd of riders gathered in the front yard. I dreaded this moment, knowing that I would be fulfilling the Italian motorcycle stereotype in spades by sitting here in front of a crowd of domestic and metric motorcycles, coaxing and fiddling with a recalcitrant Latin machine while quietly muttering pleading for it to Just. Please. Fucking. Start. Sure enough it behaves just like it had on the two previous mornings, but now I'm beginning to figure out a formula, in part due to Joe's notes on the hard starting of his 955 SPA. Ignition on, thumb the starter for a few seconds. Wait 30 seconds to a minute. Repeat. As soon as the engine starts to pop and catch, stop. Wait again. Repeat.

The engine is barely catching and promptly stalling after a few lumpy misfires and I'm getting frustrated. I can feel eyes on the back of my neck as my under-the-breath pleas grow more desperate. I pause and Matt comes over to say goodbye. I double check the route I planned with him and wish him well; I expect I'll encounter the guys again at Barber after the Century Race on Saturday. He heads back into the museum, I thumb the starter again, and the bike instantly thunders to life. I may have pumped my fist and shouted "YES" a little too loud. I'm not a superstitious man, but I briefly think about kidnapping Matt for use as a good luck charm.

Wheels Through Time Museum

I warm up the bike and finish putting on my gear. If ever there was a picture perfect example of 916 ownership, this was it. Hard starting, sputtering, owner begging it to behave as if it was a colicky child. Then a flourish of mechanical racket as the beast cooperates for one glorious moment. All I would need now to complete the scene would be for it to stall just as I pull out in front of the crowd... GOD DAMN IT. I restart and give it a little too much throttle cutting across the wet lawn, sliding the back wheel out a good 20 degrees. At least I left with a proper attitude, looking like a confident rider taming a barely contained brute as I thundered out onto the main road. At least that's what I'd like to think. More likely I looked like a squid with a barely-functional old Italian piece of shit who almost highsided on the front lawn in front of a group of Harley riders.

Sunrise in Maggie Valley North Carolina

I head south along the secondary highway as per Jack's advice, on my way towards Atlanta before I cut west to Birmingham. I stop at a Wendy's for an early lunch. I watch Fox News as I sip my coffee, getting my fill of vitriolic right-wing bullshit for the day, including hyperbolic coverage of the infamous Range Rover incident in New York. I shift uncomfortably in my seat while images of Edwin Mieses Jr. being trampled by a 5000 pound British suburban tank are repeated several times on the flatscreen in the centre of the restaurant. I'm sitting here in full motorcyclist regalia, helmet on table, my bright red "crotch rocket" sitting in front of the building. I am the very thing the Fox anchors are viciously and ignorantly disparaging and I now feel a bit ill at ease. I'm intensely aware of how that single incident has inflamed old prejudices around the world and set back our public relations a good 30 years. Several times during the trip people would bring up the incident, seeking my opinion, but I would always politely dodge discussing the "issue". I will say my thoughts on the motorcycle "cult of persecution" in North America turned out to be, unfortunately, a bit too prescient.

I briefly wonder what Jack thinks of all this nonsense.

As I'm on my way out, the manager comes over to say hello and quizzes me a bit on my trip. He warns me to take care around the local drivers: this was the number one piece of advice I received along the way. Everybody seemed to be convinced their local drivers were the worst, but rest assured that dealing with Montreal traffic for a single ride is by far much worse than anything I encountered over my two weeks in the United States.

He wishes me well on my journey. I don't ask, but I know he is a fellow rider just by his graciousness and his genuine interest in my well being. I forget about the melodramatic Fox coverage and return to the road.

Wheels Through Time property

I ride south along a half dozen secondary highways into Georgia, passing through countless small rural communities. Despite being rural the density of the population along these routes is far more than you'd find on a similar area in Canada. It's a slow, relatively unexciting ride. As I approach Gainesville the roads straighten and the landscape begins to flatten out. No more mountain passes from here onward. I loop around Atlanta through moderate afternoon traffic and head straight for Birmingham to meet my host.

Winslow contacted me through OddBike shortly after I began the OddBike USA Tour Indiegogo campaign. He graciously offered me a place to stay in Birmingham, which was a great relief because my original plan had me camping at the Barber festival for three days. Not a bad thing and probably a good way to meet some people, but it's nice to have a shower now and then. While I was en-route I gave him a call to give him a head's up, and asked him if he knew anyone who might be able to help with my hunt for a coolant sensor. He obliged by making a post on a local rider's forum and got a few leads, meanwhile I called some Ducati contacts who were supposed to be at Barber for the weekend and started the ball rolling to locate that elusive little bastard that nobody seemed to stock.

Wheels Through Time property

I arrived in Birmingham around suppertime and promptly got lost in a rough looking neighbourhood off the Interstate. I tried to follow my Google map printout to Winslow's address but got thoroughly disoriented. Birmingham is one of those cities that is laid out in a way that is so rational that it is impossible to navigate. Streets are laid out in numerical order, but then you have the city divided into quadrants, so you end up with four different 52nd streets in totally different parts of town. Of course I had no clue where I was or how to get where I was going, so I swallowed my pride and called Winslow to get directions. Turns out he was only a few blocks away and once we joined up it was easy to locate his place... But I still would never have found my way on my own, and it turned out my map was actually wrong. I ended up being so totally screwed up by Birmingham's wonky city planning that I relied on Winslow to either drive me or directly lead me around town for the duration of my stay.

Turns out that Winslow works as a graphic designer for Mental Floss, which is an interesting trivia and general interest magazine. His home is littered with interesting objects, little items that visual designers often keep handy to offer examples and inspiration. He also does woodworking as a sideline when he isn't tinkering with his two-wheeled projects which comprised a Yamaha XS400 and XS500, and a Honda GL1000.

Wheels Through Time Museum Maggie Valley NC

Once I had the chance to park the bike and take a shower I had one simple request for my host: take me to the best damn southern BBQ joint you know. Winslow obliged and drove us to Saw's Soul Kitchen, a magnificent smoke-filled hole-in-the-wall conveniently located next to a microbrewery that is lenient with people bringing their own food. We grabbed some of Saw's signature pork and grits with deep fried onions and arugula, a fantastic introduction to a southern tradition I had been desperately wanting to try after hearing so much about smoked-off-the-bone secret recipes from down south. While Canadians would like to think they have some pretty decent BBQ skills, and lots of Montreal hotspots would claim to have the best smoked meats at their disposal, nothing is comparable to the so-tender-it-defies-belief slab of pork I got unceremoniously presented in a styrofoam go-box. Mission accomplished.

We head next door to the brewery where I score a delicious stout to wash down my sticky mix of meat and grits. It became my mission to try a new local brew at every destination, another element of adventure to add to the many nuances of my journey. That and I hate hoppy pisswater beers - I like a serious, rich, flavour-addled brew that got scraped out of the bottom of whatever barrel had been sitting in the warehouse the longest.

We spent the evening talking bikes, as you might imagine. Winslow was a relatively new rider, having some limited experience in his youth but only really taking up the sport in the last few years. He dove in headfirst by taking on several project bikes and tearing them apart himself to learn things hands-on. Which is similar to how I got into wrenching bikes (being stupid enough to start messing with my own machines without much supervision) though I didn't have the benefit of several bikes at my disposal so that I would have good odds of at least one being rideable. He mentions that he is working on a friend's late-model Triumph Bonneville and having some trouble setting the carburettors. Being a former Triumph tech I offer to have a look at it to see if I can help sort it out. I figure it's the least I can do considering he is letting my stay in his home for the next three days.


We finish our beers and head back to the house. We dive into the Bonnie and I discover a relatively simple throttle cable issue that fixes a high idle problem, but the carbs remained properly buggered up and would require tearing apart for further cleaning. While we are in the garage I give the 916 a once-over to check for anything amiss. I make a note to pick up some JB Weld to patch the cracked coolant union back together. I adjust the chain and add a direct ground to the temperature sensor to fix the wonky temp gauge. While working on the bike in the driveway I discover that cockroaches in Alabama are goddamned huge. And quite resilient. I dreaded starting the bike in the morning and having a swarm of the fuckers come skittering out of every vent on the bike, a prophesy that thankfully didn't come to pass.

Aside from the coolant union there is nothing amiss after 1600 miles on the road, though I am still concerned about my rich-running issue. I send an email to Mike at Gotham Cycles in Florida to ask if he has a coolant sensor he could send express to my next stop in New Orleans. Mike has been a stand-up source of hard-to-find parts over the years, and is one of the best Ducati salvage operations out there. He has helped me out in of a few binds, and supplied me with some key parts that I've used to refurbish my 916 over the years. The only pain is that he only communicates via email so you always have to resort to emailing him a panicked message and praying he responds in a timely manner. In this case he does - and he has one on hand, so I arrange to have the part shipped to my next stop in New Orleans.

Side note: I can already imagine a few Ducati guys preparing to type a response saying "but you can buy that sensor at NAPA!". I know. The sensor that was on my bike was that NAPA replacement, changed last season as part of my troubleshooting of what turned out to be a faulty crank position sensor. It never ran quite right with the NAPA part - always too rich on WOT with occasional misfires in the midrange. I just wanted to start from zero and get the correct Ducati original part, because odds were the equivalent part was sending weird info to the ECU and throwing the fuel mixture way off.

The exhaustion of a day's riding sped along by a hearty meal of meat and beer catches up to me and I crash hard for the night, helped in no small part due to the first real bed I've seen since I left Pennsylvania. Tomorrow we head to the Barber Vintage Festival.


Scary ass spider



OddBike USA Tour: Part VI - Barber Vintage Festival

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Barber Motorsports Park Leeds Alabama Race Track

Part VI of the OddBike USA Tour Travelogue. Click here for Part IPart IIPart IIIPart IV, and Part V.

Friday

I wake up early and Winslow and I head straight to the Barber Motorsports Park in Leeds, a short drive outside of Birmingham. The facility is located in a secluded wooded area, surrounded by pleasant little twisty roads. If you are in the area and looking for some interesting riding roads, the routes around Barber would be a good place to start.

Ducati 916 and Yamaha XS400 motorcycles

We arrive early enough to beat the traffic and nab parking near the front gate, but despite our early arrival it is clear that this is going to be a huge event. Visitors are streaming in steadily, and venues are spread out over miles of property surrounding the track and museum. I head over to the Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club stand located next to the entrance to locate David Morales, builder of the 50 Magnum I featured on Pipeburn. Sure enough Dave is there, with the Magnum on display alongside a very cool CT70 he had built previously. I introduce myself and meet his wife, Jennifer, before I wander off to take in the festivities.



David Morales' Honda 50 Magnum and CT70
David Morales' 50 Magnum

I was keen to to check out the swap meet, which was supposedly one of the best in the country. I had printed a schedule that highlighted and prioritized the various events I wanted to see on each day. I arrive at the swap meet and promptly toss it out - I was in full-on kid-in-candy-store-on-sugar-high mode.

Barber Vintage Festival Swap Meet

The swap meet covers several acres and featured every conceivable component you can think of, plus a bunch you'd never guess would end up piled high in front of a camper. I wander the rows, looking over parts, project machines, accessories, clothes, books, anything and everything motorcycle related you could possibly imagine. Plenty of junk, but also a lot of good buys if you were prepared to hunt a bit. I kept my eyes peeled for a coolant union and a sensor, and came close when I discovered a guy parting out an ST2 - but unfortunately he didn't have any engine or cooling system components. So close.

BMW K1 Motorcycle Barber Swap Meet

The real shock is the endless supply of inexpensive bikes. I am in awe. Coming from Canada, where the ugliest, most common, chopped up, run into the ground, piece of crap UJM will fetch top dollar and no running bike will ever sell for anything less than four digits, the selection of cool cheap bikes before me is mind blowing. There is a running Moto Guzzi Centauro with some surface corrosion - asking 1800$. A really clean Kawasaki ZX750E Turbo - 3500$. An Aprilia Falco in good condition - 3750$. There are rare and unusual machines everywhere, and almost all up for grabs for totally fair asking prices barring a few nitwits who were asking silly money. Being a swap meet, haggling is expected - so imagine the bargains you could snag if the prices are fair to begin with. And where else are you going to see a nicely-preserved bacon-slicer Moto Guzzi single down the row from several Honda CX Turbos and a Yamaha GTS, while an old fellow puts up and down the aisles hawking a beautifully restored Indian Chief?  I vow that someday I will show up with at least 5000$ in cash and a trailer, and will leave with as many machines as I can drag home with me.

Yamaha GTS 1000 Motorcycle Barber Swap Meet

After an hour or so I am getting hungry and I locate a food truck serving breakfast near a nondescript building with a sign outside: "Auction". That sounds interesting. I wander in, and I am stunned by a fantastic cross section of rare and beautiful machines. The swap meet held the gems in the rough, the projects and daily drivers. The auction has the cream puffs, the trailer queens and the restored beauties. While the auction machines are appealing, they have a "do not touch" aura (and some actual signs to that effect) about them, too clean and too perfect to muck up by something so base as riding them. I don't like that - motorcycles, no matter how revered they might be, are made to be ridden. So says the man who thrashes a 916 as his daily driver and touring mount.

Motorcycle Auction Barber Vintage Festival

By this time the grounds are filling up with parked bikes stretching for miles at a time. Just wandering the parking areas will net you some fascinating discoveries. Never mind the festivities, the rides that the attendees show up on are interesting enough to spend a day mulling over.

I walk over to the Ace Corner, a pay-extra-to-get-in-because-fuck-you-that's-why section of the festival. I discover they are checking tickets at the entrance and I left mine in the luggage on my bike. So I backtrack a mile, retrieve the ticket, and trudge back. "This had better be damn worth it" I think to myself.

Custom Ducati Supersport

It isn't. For your extra 10$ a day you get to see a few custom chopper and café-racer style bikes - some good, some pretty mediocre. Odds are you'd find more interesting customs parked around the property. A few vendors are present hawking all your capital-R Rocker and café-racer hipster lifestyle needs, from faux vintage T-shirts, to made-in-China aftermarket parts, to branded mugs to sip your free trade soy lattes from. The so-called "Ace Café" at Barber is just another food tent, same as the ones scattered throughout the event, except here they are allowed to serve overpriced beer. Truth be told these guys look like a bunch of weenies compared to the grizzled old farts peddling barn-fresh junk down at the swap meet, and their wares aren't particularly interesting. That is the difference between authenticity and commercialization. The whole "scene" feels phony and contrived. The fact they have segregated themselves into a separate venue didn't endear me much - I felt cheated out of my tenner, and I bought the extra pass for all three goddamned days.

A colleague of mine, who isn't fond of this neo café-racer culture, had rhetorically asked me "In 20 years will we be dressing up like squids and riding around on chromed out Hayabusas and GSX-Rs?".

He has a point. A couple of decades ago these so-called "café" bikes were assembled by blue-collar miscreants who went around flaunting the law, riding like assholes, and being social misfits. Since then we've nostalg-ized Rocker culture to the point of absurdity. The same goes for the shed-built choppers that were once the mainstay of working class outlaws before they became a cash cow. While I love the aesthetics of these bikes and the idea of building your own machine, I can do without the preening and lifestyle bullshit. Maybe I'm just jealous of all their sweet beards and tats.

Brough Superior SS100 Motorcycle

There were two notable highlights at the Ace Corner, however. One was a nice selection of beautiful Brough Superiors, which looked decidedly out of place compared to what was otherwise a sea of custom Asian twins and fours ("Wow, another Honda CB with metalflake paint!"). The other was a pair of bikes presented by Analog Motorcycles, who earned my respect by showing up with two of the coolest customs in the show - one was once a Ducati Indiana, the other started as a Bimota DB3 Mantra. Both were far more attractive than you'd think those donor machines ever could be. Their unusual choice of project bikes gets my thumbs up - so does their friendly, genuine attitude.

Analog Motorcycles Bimota DB3 Mantra

Analog Motorcycles Ducati Indiana

I continue my wandering and head over to the Ducati area to say hello to the Duc guys. A modest tent is setup on a remote ridge with a row of Ducatis parked in front. I was expecting a row of new bikes, maybe a dealer display, some merchandise... Instead it is a simple venue with inflatable couches, a cooler full of water, and a decent view of the track. No pretenses, no salesmen. A quiet, shaded refuge - not that exciting but much appreciated after hours of wandering around in the Alabama sunshine.

Ducati owner's tent Barber Vintage Festival

I meet Vicki Smith, who is quite well known in the North American Ducati community and a founder of Ducati.net. She welcomes me into the Ducati gathering and says "Oh, and Cook Neilsen is here. He's right behind you." I turn around and come face to face with a living legend. Generally I don't follow racing and I wouldn't be able to pick most famous riders out of a crowd but I am well aware of the who Cook is and the importance and his exploits aboard the California Hot Rod (aka Old Blue), as well as the work he did back in the glory days of Cycle magazine. I was a little star struck (and just plain caught off guard) and did my best to introduce myself without looking like a complete dork. I managed to give him one of my cards and told him about OddBike. Someone was needed to ferry some people around in the Official Ducati North America golf cart and Cook volunteered, disappearing as quickly as he had materialized. I sat down and met a few of the Ducati owners who were present, including a few of the guys I had spoken to earlier while hunting for that elusive coolant sensor. I also had the opportunity to meet Cook's wife Stepper. Nice folks all around, as is often the case with the true Ducati guys. It's only the young, poseur Ducati owners who are snobby assholes - the Ducati community is one of the friendliest, most supportive group of motorcyclists I've ever had the privilege to be a part of, which is probably part of the reason why I still ride one.

After a cooling-off period I head through the main vendor area to check out the commercial displays. This year's featured marque is BMW, and there is a dedicated BMW parking / show area, which is almost entirely devoid of anything noteworthy. I was quite disappointed; aside from the expected slew of 1960s-1980s airheads and a few K bikes and oilheads, there was nothing particularly interesting present. I came across a few early boxers and the odd single, but many were floating around the grounds or on display at other venues. There was an interesting antique and classic bike show-and-shine going on right next to the BMW section that featured some fascinating pieces, awkwardly juxtaposed with the vendor area filled with brand new machines and racks of accessories. Something a bit unusual about seeing a Ner-a-Car and a Brough Superior sidecar outfit within spitting distance of a rack of Triumph T-shirts. Not to mention the three dirtbikes screaming around inside a Ball of Death.

Motorcycle Ball of Death

A small Norton camp is notable for being the only group arrogant enough to have a roped-off "Private Party" event, right next door to this mind-blowing selection of vintage machines that were far more interesting than a bunch of run-of-the-mill Commandos. The scene did nothing to mitigate my irrational dislike of old British machines. Elitism would be ill advised in this environment, because aside from their little clique everything else was open to the riff raff - that included the "Vincent Hillbilly's" owner's club, who had a great selection of machines on hand, including a rare early Meteor single that stood out among the "ubiquitous" Shadows and Rapides.

Vincent Meteor Motorcycle

I stop by the Motus display and introduce myself to Brian Case and Lee Conn. It gave me an opportunity to finally see (and hear) the Motus MST in person. I was impressed with the fit and finish of the prototypes and came away satisfied that they would be a worthy subject of a future OddBike profile. But at this point my mind was wandering from the hot sun and overwhelming selection of machines I'd been perusing since about 8 am.

Motus MST R Motorcycle

Did I mention that there was racing on the track in the centre of the property this entire time? Because I didn't have a single moment to even take notice of the classic machines shrieking and thundering around the tarmac. Maybe tomorrow I'd have the chance to properly spectate. In the meantime there was so much happening around the track that I scarcely noticed what was occurring on it.

Racing motorcycles Barber Motorsports Park


Time for a break. Time to visit the museum.

The Barber Vintage Motorsport Museum is one of those pilgrimage destinations that every motorcyclist adds to his or her bucket list the moment they hear about it. The largest collection of motorcycles in the world? All maintained to the highest standards, in ready-to-run condition? Damn right I'd like to see what the fuss is about.

Barber Motorcycle Museum

I can assure you, nothing will prepare you for your first visit to the Barber museum. You will be totally overwhelmed. You will be unable to process the sheer number of obscenely rare and beautiful machines presented before you in a state of the art facility that would put many major art museums to shame. This is the motorcyclist's Louvre, and just like that palace, you cannot possibly take it all in over the course of a few hours. It's simply too much, and it is fantastic.

Barber Vintage Motorsports Museum

I could barely contain myself as I was cruising through the exhibits and taking as many photos as I could manage. I saw every machine I've ever desired, and quite a few that I've owned or ridden. I encountered many of the machines I've profiled here on OddBike. I photographed a dozen more that I had on my "to do" list. I stood in awe of machines with unequaled historical provenance, bikes straddled by the greatest riders of all time. Bikes from every period, from every continent, from the mundane to the exceptional - everything is accounted for. If Wheels Through Time was overwhelming due to its magnificent chaos, living history and provenance, the Barber museum is utterly awe-inspiring for its breadth, scope and perfection. They are perfect foils. Wheels Through Time has the market cornered for rare original survivors in a low-key environment, while Barber is the home of flawless restorations in a multi-million dollar facility.

Gary Egan's Ducati ST4 Motorcycle Barber Museum

I visit the state-of-the-art restoration department on the basement floor, an area that is normally off-limits to the public but is opened during the Vintage Festival. Little do I know I will become better acquainted with it before the week is out.

Cook Neilsen's Ducati Old Blue California Hot Rod

I wander the halls and take photos until my camera's battery dies, at which point I vow to return the next day to continue my visit. I intensely wish I could stay the entire week to study the machines on hand. I don't feel like I'm doing myself, or the museum, any justice by being present for a few measly hours. I was in the pantheon of motorcycling and my brain was melting.

Silk 700S Mark II Sabre Motorcycle Barber Museum
Silk 700S Mark II

So much for relaxing. At this point I'm buzzing and can't focus. It's late afternoon and I decide to call it quits for the day. I head back to the VJMC area and hang out with David and Jennifer while I wait for Winslow to materialize and guide me back to his house. David was a generous contributor to the Tour's Indiegogo campaign and I promised I'd buy him a beer - but seeing how the only beer tent was on the other side of the Barber property in Ace Corner, I offered to take him and Jennifer out for dinner. We make plans to meet in Birmingham later in the evening.

Kawasaki Z1R TC Turbo Motorcycle Barber Museum
Kawasaki Z1R TC Turbo

Winslow takes me through the backroads of Leeds, along a set of pleasant routes snaking through a forested area on the way to Birmingham. I get stuck behind a doddering driver in an Audi, which is a bit of blessing - I'm completely wiped out from the day's events and I'm content to just putter along slowly without testing my riding skills under exhaustion. I am familiar enough with my bike to know that it does not suffer half-assed riding or lazy inputs, and it will fight back if you aren't sharp. Whenever I start to get tired I know it's time to find a place to stop, pronto, because my riding is about to get real sloppy, real fast. You cannot ride a 916 on autopilot for long.

Gurney Alligator Motorcycle Barber Museum
Gurney Alligator

Winslow and I head over to Carrigan's Public House to meet David, Jennifer, and Matt, one of the VJMC guys who also builds custom minibikes. Carrigan's is located in an industrial area of Birmingham, framed by old factories and rail yards. It is an eerie area filled with old brick warehouses and dimly lit streets, and interesting contrast to the vibrant activity at Carrigan's on a warm Friday night. The restaurant-slash-bar is located in a fully renovated historic building and shares space with those classic signs of urban gentrification: loft condos and open-concept office space. Judging by the crowd and our attempts to desperately nab a table like a gang of vultures circling a dying animal, I'd say it's a pretty popular spot. And, gimmicky or not, the beer-dispensing Land Rover Defender behind the bar is a nice touch. We enjoy a night of good beer, good food, and lots of shop talk.

Gilera CX125 Motorcycle Barber Museum
Gilera CX 125

On the way home we pass the Sloss Furnaces, a decommissioned pig-iron blast furnace that is the only such industrial site to be preserved as a National Historic Landmark. Winslow shares a bit of the local lore, about how the Furnaces are supposedly haunted by the ghosts of workers who were mistreated by a sadistic foreman - or perhaps it is the foreman himself who continues to roam the facilities. Looking at the mass of blackened pipework framed by the glow of the Birmingham nightscape, it's hard not to picture the site as a hotbed of paranormal happenings. Lacking any nighttime lighting and in an already poorly lit industrial neighbourhood, the place looks fucking terrifying. It would be a great place to visit around Halloween, a point not lost on the locals who hold a series of horror-themed events at the Furnaces from September through to the November.

With ghost stories rattling around in my head and the nearby recycling yard clattering heaps of metal well into the wee hours, I settle in for a good night's rest. Tomorrow will prove to be the most intense day of the entire OddBike USA Tour.

Britten V1000 Motorcycle Barber Museum

OddBike USA Tour: Part VII - The NPR of Motorcycle Journalism

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Barber Vintage Motorsports Museum Leeds Alabama

Part VII of the OddBike USA Tour Travelogue. Click here for Part IPart IIPart IIIPart IVPart V, and Part VI.

"It's the NPR of motorcycle journalism." JT pats me on the shoulder. I think it's the first time I've seen him this evening without a beer in hand. He has just coined the new unofficial motto of OddBike. Alan glances at my card and flashes a polite smile. He promises to have a look at my site.

This is the close of one of the most intense and incredible days I've ever experienced, the absolute highlight of the OddBike USA Tour. I am exhausted and barely able to process what has happened to me today. This is the moment when I realize that embarking on this journey was one of the best decisions I've ever made, and this day was the beginning of the turning point in OddBike's future I was hoping for.     


Saturday

Exhausted from Friday's events I decide to leave for Barber a bit later on Saturday morning, "later" still being before 9am. I had asked Winslow the night before if he was keen on taking the bikes, as I would have preferred to just hop in his car to get to the Festival. But he was set on riding his XS there, so I didn't argue. 

I gear up and face the gauntlet of starting my bike on a cool morning, and today it is being a particular bitch. It wasn't that difficult to get running, but it keeps stalling over and over again while I try to get it warmed up. I hate running it on fast idle (particularly in a quiet neighbourhood on a weekend morning) but have to resort to holding it at over 2000 rpm just to keep it from stalling while I wait for Winslow to roll his Yamaha out of the garage. This doesn't bode well. 

Vincent motorcycle Barber Vintage Festival

Traffic hadn't been as bad as we thought it would be on Friday, so I anticipate it would be easy to get in today.

I am very wrong.

Traffic entering the Barber property is gridlocked right from the entrance and moving at a glacial pace. There is a relatively short, sweeping road that runs from the highway into the property, probably less than a mile long. Today it feels like it is 20 miles of parking lot. Cars, vans, groups of bikes - all are sitting idle in the steadily rising Alabama heat. Once my radiator fan clicks on I shut off the engine and try to walk the bike as much as possible, up until the road starts climbing up a rise and I can't push it anymore. I keep cycling the engine, turning it on to inch forward, shutting it down and waiting. I am worried about my cracked coolant union, which still isn't patched and is only being held in place by a push-fit coolant junction into the side of the front cylinder. A single O-ring is all that separates my cooling system from the outside world. I am nervous.

Brough Superior motorcycle with sidecar

We crawl along, occasionally getting passed by riders self-entitled enough to lanesplit while the rest of us sit and stew in our helmets. Lanesplitting is great if it is legal and you are using it as a way to filter through morning traffic. If it is illegal and you are using it as a way to cut ahead in line at an event - fuck you. I think a few of them may have gotten nabbed at the head of the line by the dozen or so State Troopers who were directing traffic. Or at least I sincerely hope they were.

We finally creep up to the entrance, where we encounter the bottleneck that was the agent of our misery - all traffic is being directed through a single gate where volunteers are scanning tickets at a leisurely pace. I roll up to within 50 feet of the gate and the bike starts misfiring. Blub-blub-blub...blub...blub.....blub... stall. I restart, it repeats the slow cutting out, and then refuses to restart. She is done. It feels like a fuel starvation issue. A State Trooper walks up behind me to direct traffic around my sick Duc. Fuming mad and soaked with sweat, I jump off and push the bike through the gate and locate the nearest parking spot. I walk across the road to the VJMC area and strip off my gear. I stood there for a few minutes in a daze, almost to the point of heat stroke, my head boiling with white hot rage over my predicament - my bike was now dead, 1600 miles from home, and if I don't get it running again I'm properly fucked. I can't afford to take it to a shop, my budget being stretched to the limit just to cover the basic expenses of this trip. This is going to have to be an on-the-spot job.

Brough Superior motorcycle with sidecar

I take a moment to gather my thoughts and head for the nearest food truck to grab some Powerade and a coffee. I calm myself and decide to wait an hour for the bike to cool down before I attempt to restart it. Maybe it is just heat soaked and will behave once it is no longer the temperature of liquid-hot-magma.

I return to the swap meet to see if there is anything new in the acres of junk. Within a few minutes I spy a familiar shape sitting on a trailer between two trailers. It can't be. Not here. I walk over and pick it up, scarcely believing what I just found - an original all-red 916 monoposto tail, complete with the seat. It's in excellent condition considering the age, barring a few minor paint chips and some cheesy looking metal grilles that were siliconed into the vents in place of the original mesh inserts. The seat is mint. All the federal and manufacturer's stickers are intact - off a 1996 916, US market machine. Finding one of these for sale in any condition is exceptional. There is a piece of tape stuck on the seat with a price - 150$. 

Ducati 916 motorcycle tail swap meet

The seller comes over and explains that he had a 916 and he had this and a few other trim pieces in his spares bin long after he sold the bike. I tell him that I came here to the Vintage Festival on my own 916, having ridden it from Canada. I'm not sure if he believes me - I think he assumes I'm bullshitting to get a better price. I explain I am interested, but I would need to ship it back to Canada... Which will cost me at least 100$... He thinks for a moment. "Best I can do on that piece is 130$." Ok, so maybe I did use the Canadian angle to haggle. Sold.

I was in a much better mood now. You really never know what you might find at a swap meet like this. I drop the tail off with David and Jennifer and continue wandering around the venues for another hour before I return to my bike. Despite a cool down period it still refuses to start - I'm really worried now. I pull out my tool kit and start my familiar troubleshooting procedure, disconnecting and jumping each fuel injection sensor in turn to see if I can get it running, checking the voltage of the battery - the basic stuff. This isn't the first time I've had to fix it while out on the road, and I've never had to resort to towing it yet - and I'll be damned if I get stuck here in Alabama. But aside from a few lazy misfires I can't get it going. I can smell gas wafting through the exhausts pipes so fuel delivery seems to be functional. I suspect my coolant sensor may have finally buggered up in the extreme heat of the morning's traffic. It wouldn't be the first time. I used to commute in stop-and-go Montreal traffic which caused all sorts of fun electrical issues in a short span of time.

A couple of guys passing by pause and compliment me on my beautiful machine. They may have said something about not seeing them very often - I wasn't really paying attention given present circumstances.  I thank them and mutter something about it being a real pain in the ass at the moment. "Beautiful," I think to myself, "so it looks great broken down on the side of the road."              

Time to really get the ball rolling. I need to locate some spare parts to try and get this thing running before the end of the day.

My first stop is the Ducati owner's tent. I explain my predicament to the folks present. The unanimous agreement is to locate Mark Hatten from Wounded Duc, who is racing this weekend and would be in the paddocks. He might have some spares, or ideas on how to proceed.

Ducati 888 Superbike Motorcycle Barber Vintage Festival

I head for the paddocks. After signing a waiver ("I accept that racing is dangerous and if I'm stupid enough to get myself run over by Jay Springsteen I deserve whatever fate has in store for me.") I'm given free run of the massive multi-level paddock area. I hadn't realized I was allowed into the paddocks as part of the standard Festival admission fee. In fact I had walked past the gate the previous day and some curmudgeon working security had told me to turn around and go back to the nearest tram stop, so I had assumed I was not welcome. Screw that guy.

Rudge Multi motorcycle

I zero in on my goal, trying not to get too distracted by the oodles of cool vintage racing machines around me. I find Mark's trailer, empty, his 888 sitting unattended. I ask his neighbours where he is. "He's at the pre-race rider's meeting, his class is coming up next." Oops, bad timing. I wander off to see if I might be able to locate the guys from Wheels Through Time while I wait for Mark to return. The Century Race is today.

I spot Joe Gardella's 1913 Harley in one corner of the paddocks, but he is nowhere to be found. I continue on and run into the Velocity film crew. They inform me that I literally just missed the Century Race, and that Dale had won for a second year in a row on his 1912 Indian board tracker. Dale, Trish and Matt arrive shortly after. Dale is beaming and basking in the glory of his win against arch-rival (and friend) Joe for a second year in a row. Matt is fuming because he encountered the same fuel delivery problem he was struggling with back in Maggie Valley on Wednesday night, most likely due to rust from the gas tank plugging the rudimentary petcock. This would be the second year Matt was sidelined - in 2012 he had a hair-raising blowout pulling out of a corner onto the straightaway. He is clearly not happy. "Why didn't I put gas in both tanks..." he curses under his breath.

I say hello to everybody and describe my situation. A stranger standing nearby pipes up and introduces himself as a fellow Canadian. He point to his pickup truck parked behind me and offers me a lift as far as Ontario, if need be. I give him my card and he promises to follow up the next day to see if I still needed a lift. I am relieved and grateful that I have the option, but I am determined to see this problem through and get the bike back to Canada under its own power. To do anything else would be to return home in defeat, head hung in shame - as far as I was concerned if the 916 spent any time on pickup bed the OddBike USA Tour would be a failure.

Barber Motorsports Park racetrack motorcycles

The Next Gen Superbike event was starting, the race where Mark would be campaigning his 888. I climb up to the grandstands and watch the race from above the start-finish line. I watch a selection of disparate machines battle it out on the track, including one rider aboard some sort of Supermoto rig who is impressing everyone by hanging on with the far quicker machines through the corners. Mark finishes second, which maintains his lead as National Champion in his class.

Barber Motorsports Park Racetrack

After the race I head back to Mark's trailer. He is busy scrubbing the grit off his slicks. I introduce myself and relate my problem, but unfortunately he doesn't have any spare sensors on hand - once again, I hear it is one of those things that never breaks. He recommends I check with some of the other guys who were racing Ducatis - so I begin making rounds of the paddock to hassle everyone who happened to show up at Barber with a Duc. 

Pierobon X60R Motorcycle Boulder Motorsports Ducati

I speak to the guys at Boulder Motorsports and sit down with their mechanics, trying some armchair troubleshooting to figure out what might have happened. I walk the rows for some time, making a bee line to every Ducati I spot. It's always the same story - no spares. Everyone is incredibly helpful and friendly. A few would have been willing to pull the sensor off their bike to help me out, but most had afternoon sessions on the track. And that was the problem: to yank the sensor requires draining some of the coolant, so it isn't a quick and easy thing to do. I just wanted to get my hands on a spare sensor to plug into the harness to see if I could get the bike started. I knew my sensor was wonky due to my persistent cold starting problem, but I wasn't 100% sure if it was the source of today's problem.

Racing Ducatis at Barber Vintage Festival

Eventually I meet a fellow who is acquainted with Ducati guru Bruce Meyers, who is one of the best Ducati technicians in the world. He sends him a message to Bruce and he calls me shortly thereafter. We discuss the problem and possible solutions. He thinks I am on the right track with the coolant sensor, but he expresses some doubt about the no-start condition, noting that even if the sensor is screwed up disconnecting it should introduce a fail safe fuel map that would allow the bike to run. He tells me to go to the Barber restoration department and find Chuck. Apparently Chuck owns a 916 and might be able to help out with my troubleshooting.

Barber Vintage Festival motorcycle paddocks

Perfect timing. I'm sweating profusely and sunburned from running around the paddocks for over an hour. I could use another "break" in the air-conditioned museum.

Barber Museum Motorcycle Bike Rack

Once again I'm in awe of the collection, and now that I'm looking at it again with fresh eyes I'm seeing things I had missed on my first whirlwind tour. I head to the fifth floor to check out the portion of the collection I had not seen the previous day due to a private event. I spend some time photographing the machines I wasn't able to document due to my dead battery. Then I turn a corner and practically stumble into the only bike that truly makes me well up with emotion.

1976 Konig 500 Motorcycle

Sitting on its own is a 1976 König 500. This was the same type of machine that New Zealand rider Kim Newcombe rode to a posthumous second place in the 1973 500 GP, nearly beating the all-conquering MV Agusta team but only failing due to Newcombe's untimely death at a non-championship event at Silverstone prior to the end of the season. He finished ahead of Giacomo Agostini and behind Phil Read. It is one of the greatest motorcycle stories that nobody has ever heard of, and when you learn of the details of Newcombe's career you can scarcely believe that it could have been forgotten. It's an incredible Cinderella story with a tragic finale, and it heralded the arrival of competitive two-strokes in the 500cc category. This is the only machine that can bring tears to my eyes, and it's a story that I am very proud to have shared on OddBike. It's fitting that the König sits here on its own, noble, solitary, and largely ignored while a massive display of racing MVs dedicated to John Surtees hogs the limelight nearby.

Konig motorcycle logo

A group of people are walking by and take a tiny bit of notice of the machine, commenting on the unusual engine layout. I stop them and begin telling them the story of the König, pointing out the modified outboard motor, telling them how Newcombe nearly won the championship despite his death. By the end of my impromptu monologue they are staring at me, then the bike, in disbelief. They are stunned to have never heard about this amazing story and vow to look it up. They are now intently examining the bike and snapping photos. 

1976 Konig 500 Motorcycle

I believe I stumbled onto OddBike's purpose at that moment - OddBike isn't just a collection of cool and unusual motorcycles, it is an archive of what might otherwise be lost and a testament to the people involved with these unique machines. I can't claim to have come up with the "archive" idea myself but this was the moment when that concept was made real, and the importance of what I was doing crystallized in my mind. I hadn't realized before that I might have that sort of impact. Now it was beginning to dawn on me that OddBike could have a purpose, other than just being a repository for my rambling prose.
 
I continue around the museum, asking any staff member I come across where I might find Chuck. I encounter Denis McCarthy, who turns out to be one of the restoration team members. I describe my problem and who referred me, and he kindly takes me down to the "Race Shop" in the basement where he ushers me into the inner sanctum of the Barber Museum.

Barber Museum Race Shop

We enter a surgically-clean room with a couple of work benches and a wall loaded with sliding shelves of individually labelled bins. Everything is clean and well lit, no oil stains, no greasy fingerprints, no errant tools. It feels like a hospital room, and would look pass for one if not for the toolboxes and a stripped frame and crankcase on one of the lifts - looks like it might be a Yamaha TZ or something similar. A black Ducati ST2 with New Jersey plates is parked near the door. A hub-centre steering Vyrus minimoto ("Built by the Vyrus guys when they were here." according to Denis) is hanging from the ceiling in front of a glass wall that looks out over a collection of bikes awaiting service. Chuck is sitting at a computer workstation, relaxing in this quiet refuge as the public buzzes around the rest of the restoration department. While most of the facilities are open to visitors this weekend, this room remains off limits.

Vyrus Minimoto hub-centre-steered minibike
Vyrus Minimoto

We chat about the issue I'm facing for a few minutes. Chuck and Denis suggest pulling the spark plugs and bringing them in for cleaning in case they might have gotten fouled. Denis lends me a ratchet from his personal toolbox and I head back out to the parking area to start pulling my bike apart.

Broken down Ducati 916 motorcycle
Photo courtesy David Morales

I ask permission to roll my bike behind the VJMC venue where I can work without being disturbed. I then proceed to set up a perfect characterization of Italian bike ownership - a sea of Japanese bikes with a sole Ducati in their midst, half-disassembled and surrounded by tools. David photographs the scene for posterity.

Jason Cormier and his Ducati 916 OddBike
Photo courtesy David Morales

It's clear from the colour of the plugs that I am indeed running rich, so at least that part of my diagnosis is correct. I bring them back to the shop and the guys agree the bike is running rich but don't appear to be fouled at first glance. Chuck asks me what number the plugs are. He goes to the back wall and slides across one of the shelves to reveal an entire rack of NGK plugs. He pulls out a set and hands them to me - a gift from the Barber Museum to a motorcyclist in need.

Jason Cormier working on his Ducati 916 OddBike
Photo courtesy David Morales

The owner of the ST2 is in the room, tending to his machine. If I recall correctly his name was Jeff. It turns out that he was in a similar situation. He had ridden his Duc from New Jersey and the bike had died suddenly after he got caught in the morning's traffic, and now refused to power on. Despite the fuses being intact and the battery on a trickle charger nothing was occurring when the ignition was switched on, other than a loud electrical buzz from somewhere deep in the front fairing. I suggest checking the relays, and that he should be able to locate generic automotive equivalents at any decent auto parts store. I help him poke around the bike for a few minutes trying to find some obvious solution but nothing is jumping out.

A man walks across the shop and into the back room.

Jeff leans over and whispers: "That's Alan Cathcart."

The number one motorcycle journalist in the world just walked into the room.

I politely introduce myself to Alan but reveal nothing about who I am or why I'm here. The last thing I want to do is corner one of the top guys in the motorcycle industry and spook him by going into rabid star-struck fan boy mode, shilling my little motorcycle blog. Besides, I'll bet he's been hounded for the entire time he has been at Barber and this was probably the only place he could go without being accosted.

I head back to my bike and install the new plugs. Flick on the ignition, thumb the starter... And the damned thing fires right up. After all the running around, all the horrifying specter of not completing my journey, all my hours of hounding of racers, technicians, and Barber staff members, it was the goddamned spark plugs all along.

Jason Cormier working on the Ducati 916
Photo courtesy David Morales

Once again I trudge back to the museum. I return Denis' ratchet and thank him profusely for his help. Alan and his wife are nearby chatting with some of the staff.

Denis turns to group. "Alan, have you met Jason? Do you know what he did? He rode a 916 here from Canada."

Alan pauses and looks at me with an expression of bemusement on his face. He asks me about my wrists, how far I've ridden. He seems genuinely shocked that I endured a 916 over this distance. To be honest I can't recall exactly what I said after that. Maybe something about losing the circulation to my hands, my need to pick up a Throttle Rocker for the ride home. Maybe something about the trip not being done yet, many miles left to go. I was so stunned at what had just happened, after a day of mad running around, that I was put into yet another daze. In the mere hour or so I had been dealing with the guys at Barber I had already earned a reputation, one that was enough to make Alan Cathcart take notice. I shook hands with everybody and gave a round of sincere thank-yous to everyone for getting me back on the road.

I rush back to the bike, as by now I am behind schedule - I needed to get into Birmingham to visit the Motus factory and meet JT Nesbitt.

Saturday Night

I meet up with Winslow and he guides me into the heart of Birmingham. The Motus factory is located here in an industrial area, apparently part of a block of Barber real estate in the city that was offered to them at a special "local startup motorcycle company" rate. 

Motus Motorcycles City Bike Night Birmingham Alabama

When I was planning the OddBike USA Tour I had contacted Motus to arrange a meeting. Company president Lee Conn responded by inviting me to their annual City Bike Night, a little show and shine they held in the parking lot of their factory that would be starting in the evening after the Vintage Festival was wrapping up. Sounded like fun. I made a point to not wash my bike for the entire trip. I arrive at Bike Night on a Ducati 916 covered in seven states worth of bugs, road grime from 1600 miles of interstate, enough errant chain lube to grease a steam engine, and a set of awkwardly hung saddlebags still loaded with camping gear. 

The Motus factory is in a nondescript one-story building, just down the street from where Confederate is located. The modestly-sized parking lot in front of the building was already filling up with bikes and a few cars. A stage was placed at the far end of the lot where grips were setting up speakers and band equipment. I parked the bike and scarcely had my helmet off before an older fellow came over and introduced himself. I meet George Martin, a veteran sport rider who is a member of the Speed Crazed Riders of the Ultimate Motorcycles (SCROTUMS), a rider who has done his own share of absurd cross-country treks by Italian sport bike. In George's case he had ridden to the (now defunct) Parry Sound Sportbike Rally in Northern Ontario on his Moto Guzzi Le Mans Mark IV. We chat for a few minutes when I spot a tall, slim man with a beer in hand walking over to us. I reach out my hand to finally meet JT Nesbitt. He waves away my hand and gives me a hug.

JT has been a supporter of OddBike for some time. He and I had been conversing via email and phone for a few months before the USA Tour got underway, and he always had high hopes for the site and where it might go in the future. JT was the one who suggested that OddBike could be an "archive", and of making my site a place for honest industry discussion free of bullshit, sponsors, or pretense. I think those ideals are a still a way off, but I truly appreciate that he thinks my site has that much promise. It gives me some frameworks for the future of OddBike. These are concepts I never foresaw or expected for my little project, so it will take me some time to wrap my head around them.

This was the first time we had met in person, and it turned out to be an excellent occasion to do so - JT was here at the Motus factory to unveil his latest design: the Bienville Legacy.

JT Nesbitt Bienville Legacy Motorcycle

You might be familiar with JT's work with Confederate, where he got his first big break as a designer working on the G2 Hellcat before creating the game-changing Wraith. But to tie him solely to his work at Confederate is to sell him short. After all, it's been eight years since he left Confederate to work independently. And the Hellcat and Wraith are not the only projects he has worked on. He has worked as a journalist. He has tended bar. He studied art history. He ran a motorcycle dealership. He can weld and work an English wheel. He sketches and paints. He rebuilt a Katrina-ravaged Lincoln and took it to the Bonneville Salt Flats, aiming to hit 200 mph.  He crafted a stunning one-off car powered by a Jaguar XK6 converted to run on natural gas. He can write some of the best, most visceral and divisive prose you've ever read since Hunter S. Thompson blew his brains out. He is intense, opinionated and frighteningly intelligent. He is a great man to have on your side, and a formidable enemy if he isn't. To suggest he is a "Renaissance man" would be to use a cheap cliché, but I'm going to do it anyway.

Bienville Legacy dash with grasshopper

The Legacy is parked in front of the factory. This is the first time anyone outside of JT's shop has seen the complete prototype - and it is astonishing.

Bienville Legacy Motorcycle exhaust

JT is quick to ask me what I think. I haven't even had time to process what I'm seeing. It's tightly packaged and menacing. It looks like a bulldog with explosive potential - compact and muscular, not pretty in the traditional sense, but with a suggestion of speed and agility that defies that initial impression of visual weight. I think to myself "what the fuck does it matter what I think." JT has always been iconoclastic and to canvas for opinions seems like a moot exercise. A few months prior, upon seeing some of the preliminary mockups, I had made a comment comparing some of the forms to Art Deco streamliners. JT got rather incensed that I used a trite comparison to try and describe his work. Knowing what I know now, I realize his work defies categorization - and I mean that in the truest sense, not in the "weasel-saying-that-journalists-fall-back-on-when-they-are-unable-to-come-up-with-an-adequate-description" usage of the phrase. You literally cannot categorize or compare his designs, so don't try. His work respects the past, but he does not like it to be referenced to the past with ham-fisted art history student clichés. Lesson learned.  

Bienville Legacy Motorcycle front suspension

The Legacy is ridiculous in the best possible way. You must examine it in person to appreciate the work that has gone into it. Every single detail is unique to this machine and built to the highest standards. This is an early pre-production prototype using a set of empty crankcases, so a few details are missing and there are some minor finishing flaws here and there. But it is still magnificent. It is built around a Motus V4 with forced induction via a chain-driven supercharger. The suspension is completely unique: four carbon-fibre blades (the front and rear are interchangeable) operate through rising-rate linkages and pullrods that use a composite leaf spring running down the spine of the bike (the red beam) for suspension. The front and rear operate off the same spring. I don't want to reveal too much yet because I will be writing a proper profile of the machine in a future OddBike feature. For now suffice to say it is amazing and it had the crowd at City Bike Night in awe.  

Bienville Legacy Motorcycle suspension detail

I mill around and socialize. This is a relaxed, fun event with no pretenses. The Motus works is open to the public, and it is surprisingly small - the assembly floor is a spartan, open garage with a couple of lifts and tool chests. Next to that are a few offices, a waiting area, a design studio, and a small meeting room. It's a bit of a shock to see how modest the operation is, considering how polished their prototypes appear. You need to keep in mind that the bulk of the manufacturing is outsourced to suppliers. This will be the head of operations and the site of final assembly. They intend to produce around 300 bikes per year beginning in 2014, which is likely doable in this space if they don't move to a bigger facility by then.

Motus Motorcycle factory Birmingham Alabama

Regardless of how small Motus appears to be, these are real, running bikes, being put through real world reliability testing - they aim to put 30 000 miles on each of the protos they have sitting in front of us before series production begins.

Motus Motorcycle design studio

I notice JT talking to someone who looks familiar. Could it be? Yes, that is Pierre Terblanche, former Ducati designer who is now working for Confederate. They are discussing the Legacy, Pierre listening intently as JT walks him through the machine. Two of the best known motorcycle designers in the world are standing in the middle of an Alabama show and shine while the rest of us mill around, eating food truck tacos and swilling complimentary beer. It is a surreal moment, and it won't be the last one of the night. A few people corner Pierre and try to pry some information about from him about his work with Confederate, but he remains coy and doesn't reveal anything more than the usual press-release stuff that everyone already knows. That in itself was rather unusual - Confederate is the fiercely independent brand of capital-R Rebellion and they have hired a mainstream designer, who is now spouting off coached statements that wouldn't sound out of place at a Honda press conference. Much rumour and heresay was swirling around about what was and was not happening with the boys down the street.

Pierrer Terblanche and JT Nesbitt discuss the Bienville Legacy motorcycle

I meet Michael Walshaw, who runs the US Kriega distributor. Michael had been tipped off about my trip by a mutual acquaintance, and he had offered to provide some gear for my journey. I had politely declined as I had already purchased my luggage at that point, but I wanted to make a point to thank him publicly. I'll admit that later on when I heard a few people praising Kriega gear I regretted not taking him up on the offer. Maybe next year.

Miguel Galuzzi on the Bienville Legacy motorcycle

Another familiar face materializes and begins chatting with JT. That would be Miguel Galuzzi, famed designer of the Ducati Monster and the Moto Guzzi V7. He takes a seat on the Legacy while JT describes the design. A crowd has gathered around the scene. Another surreal moment. I wonder if Chris Bangle or Ian Callum go mingling at blue-collar car shows, wearing jeans and untucked shirts, drinking beer with the locals.

Miguel Galuzzi and JT Nesbitt discuss the Bienville Legacy Motorcycle

Several times over the course of the evening people come up to me and introduce themselves, mentioning OddBike. I'm floored. I hadn't realized that I had a following, and that people knew who I was. I absolutely did not expect to encounter fans of my work on this trip, and it blew me away. I had another moment of realization - I was still conceiving of OddBike as I had a year ago when I began writing my first article, sitting bored at work on a dreary November day. I never considered that I had fans, that people were genuinely interested in what I was doing and what I had to say. I always thought of the site as a goofy hobby, an outlet for my creativity and my personal ranting. It was on this day in Alabama that I realized OddBike was developing into something bigger.



The steady din of conversation is suddenly interrupted by the crack of an open-piped V4 starting inside the factory. Brian is at the lift, working the throttle on a white prototype that is devoid of mufflers - Lee had noted earlier "We do this because we are rednecks." Miguel is walking around the lift, listening to the American-made engine. It's a throaty, crackling roar that sounds exactly like a well-tuned, free-revving V8. Sound clips and YouTube videos don't do justice to how utterly vicious this thing sounds in person. The noise it makes is completely at odds with what a "sport tourer" should sound like, and I think that is fantastic.

Alan Cathcart and JT Nesbitt discuss the Bienville Legacy Motorcycle

I spot JT wheeling the Legacy into the factory. Everyone has taken notice. Alan Cathcart is here and he is setting up an interview with JT about the project. This was unexpected. JT had anticipated a quick series of questions, a handshake, a good luck wish. But when Alan arrived and laid eyes on the Legacy, he was completely blown away. He was agape with hand on head looking at the thing, and he immediately called his photographer to make arrangements to shoot it then and there at the Motus factory. So it was that we watched Alan interview JT for over an hour.

Alan Cathcart and JT Nesbitt discuss the Bienville Legacy motorcycle

It's now getting late and I'm completely exhausted from the day's events. Before I go I need to speak to JT to make arrangements for tomorrow - I'm meeting him in New Orleans to hang out at his studio and interview him about the Legacy. He and Alan are wrapping up and Brian lets me onto the factory floor to say goodbye to JT. I stand off to the side for a minute as they finish up.

JT turns to me. "Alan, have you met Jason Cormier?"

Alan recalls our encounter at Barber earlier in the day. I tell Alan that the whole reason I'm here is because JT gave me the kick in the ass I needed to embark on this crazy journey.

"Jason runs a website called OddBike, have you heard of it?"

I'm trying very hard to remain calm at the realization of what is happening at this moment. I pull out one of my business cards and hand it to Alan.  

"It's the NPR of motorcycle journalism." JT pats me on the shoulder. Alan glances at my card and flashes a polite smile. He promises to have a look at my site. JT later tells me "when Alan says he will have a look at your site, he means it."

Time to head home and get a good night's rest. Tomorrow, I ride to New Orleans.

Ford hotrod

              

OddBike USA Tour: Part VIII - Philosophy of the Motorcycle in New Orleans

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Ducati 916 motorcycle in Louisiana palm trees

Part VIII of the OddBike USA Tour Travelogue. Click here for Part IPart IIPart IIIPart IVPart VPart VI and Part VII.

Sunday morning is another beautiful day in Birmingham. Attendees of the Vintage Festival were blessed with three perfect days of weather: 80-90 degree temperatures with blue skies and low humidity. Barring our spark-plug-fouling gridlock adventure on Saturday morning I was never uncomfortable. The dread of riding north into cooler weather was starting to dawn on me.

I wake up early to do my laundry and scribble down some notes for the previous two days. Saturday had been such an intense, whirlwind day that I never had the opportunity to stop and (literally) collect my thoughts, so I took the time to put my experiences on paper while they were still fresh in my mind. It still felt unreal and scarcely believable that I met so many interesting people and experienced so much in the course of a single day. I truly believe it will remain one of the most memorable days of my life. But I sincerely hope it isn't - better things await in the future. It's a line of thought that will become important over the next few days.



Ducati 916 and Yamaha XS400 motorcycles

Winslow invites me to breakfast with his friends at Waffle House. A fixture at offramps across the USA, Waffle House is pretty much what you’d expect: a cheap, greasy breakfast diner. It is the sort of place that is packed with locals nursing hangovers on a Sunday morning, members of our group included. I order a gummy waffle the size of my face with a side of obscenely greasy bacon, served with corn syrup and artificial butter. Not margarine - fake butter. I've never seen such nonsense at a restaurant before. I vocally lament the lack of legitimate maple syrup south of the border but the others don’t seem to get it. Spot the Canuck.

Motorcycles at Waffle House Birmingham Alabama

I decide to skip the Festival today and head straight for New Orleans, passing my Sunday ticket along to Winslow to dispose of as he saw fit. It was to be a 400-mile day on the road and I find the prospect of riding after dark disconcerting, especially in an unfamiliar city. I have terrible night vision and the lights on a 916 are somewhere between kerosene lantern and three Maglights with weak batteries taped together on the candlepower scale. The main beam is so worthless that it is virtually invisible in daylight, so I ride with the high beam on at all times just to be somewhat visible to other drivers. I've never understood the American propensity to drive with no running lights at all, and then bitch about mandatory lighting. I'd rather be noticed as much as possible on the road to lessen the possibility of some absent minded dolt running into me. Maybe that's the result of riding a bike in Montreal for 8 years, where I'm constantly threatened by absent minded dolts who are also aggressive vehicular sociopaths.

I hit the road around 11 am. Today's ride is boring. I pass through the remainder of Alabama and then cut through Mississippi, stopping only for a quick lunch and gas along the way. I will forever remember Mississippi for having the single worst Wendy's in the history of fast food, but not much else. The landscape has flattened out now, the mountains of Virginia and North Carolina having progressed into the hills of Georgia and Alabama and now the flat swampland of the Gulf coast. The vegetation changes noticeably as well - from dense, overgrown forest into shrubby bayou as you near Louisiana. The progression of the landscape makes me realize just how far I have traveled. I left the Great White North in near freezing temps a week ago and now I'm sweating it out within spitting distance of the Gulf of Mexico.

The Interstates of Mississippi are dull, with the least appealing rest stops I encountered anywhere on my journey. It’s long, boring rides like this that allow me to formulate my ideas, sketching out the themes of my writing in my mind. Or maybe that’s just how I console myself for enduring many hours of straight, dull as fuck Interstate over the course of this trip. “At least I got lots of quiet contemplation done.” Next time I do a trip like this I’m going to allow myself more time to explore the sideroads along the way.

Louisiana Coast

I enter Louisiana and reach the coast of the Pontchartrain, an inland river connected to the Gulf of Mexico. Suddenly I feel at home. This is a setting I’m familiar with: marshland and flat sandy beaches surrounded by cottages and fishing communities. I grew up in rural New Brunswick, near the seaside town of Shediac. I am immediately reminded of the landscape of my youth, of time spent playing on beaches, of the sandy ground extending inland blanketed with thick marsh grasses. My heritage is Acadian, from the same French lineage as the local Cajuns (“Acajun”). I’m struck by how our common ancestors, thrown to the winds par Le Grand Dérangement, ended up resettling in such similar locales at different ends of the continent. It’s an eerie realization that is accompanied by a strong sense of deja vu, one that is only disrupted by the presence of palm trees. We don’t have those in Shediac.

Louisiana Coast

Driving along I-10 into downtown New Orleans I spot countless boarded-up buildings and empty, overgrown parking lots. Dilapidated and collapsing properties dot the landscape. It is immediately clear that the scars of hurricane Katrina are still present, eight years after the storm. The modern skyline rising above the city contrasts with the signs of destruction and destitution that are visible from the freeway above the city.

I roll off the Interstate and get lost in a rough looking neighbourhood that exhibits more evidence of Katrina. Poverty is omnipresent and permeates the scene. This is what we Canadians are unused to seeing when we head south of the border. This is what inspires those Mad Max nightmares of getting mugged and shot by roving bands of miscreants, just waiting for an innocent Dudley or Deborah Do Right to stumble into their trap. Canadian cities are homogeneous and largely gentrified. Poor areas might have simpler architecture, a bit less maintenance done to the infrastructure, a couple fewer Starbucks locations. But here it is different; the gaps between the wealthy and the poor areas are extreme and immediately visible. The transitions between good and bad 'hoods are stark and impossible to miss. It’s hard to find the words to describe why this is apparent but upon arriving it becomes immediately clear. I was on edge riding through these depressed areas, exhausted from a day's ride, desperately scanning for my destination. I wasn't scared, but I did not want to be there either.

I make my way into the French Quarter, mere blocks away from the rough area I entered through, and the difference is staggering. Within the span of a few hundred yards you go from boarded up and collapsing buildings to stunning colonial architecture and lush greenery surrounding picturesque streets full of eclectic bars and restaurants. Within minutes I begin to see the appeal of living here in the French Quarter, and I start to understand why JT is so fiercely proud of this city. But I can’t shake the unease of seeing the two extremes laid out before me within the span of a few blocks.

Ducati 916 motorcycle French Quarter New Orleans

I park the 916 in front of the Studio, a simple two-story building on the edge of the French Quarter. JT hasn’t arrived yet. Earlier he had recommended I stop at Checkpoint Charlie’s down the street. I discover it to be a dark, mercifully air-conditioned dive bar on the corner of Esplanade and Decatur, just the place to sit down and cool off. I am exhausted, my shirt soaked with sweat, my hair matted into a perfect helmet-head coif - I am in no condition to impress anyone so a dark, no-pretenses bar is just the ticket for me. I dump my luggage at a table and order a beer. The Saints are playing the Patriots on the TVs hung overhead and the game dominates the attention of the patrons. A mix of interesting locals populates the bar, all engaged in intense discussions of life, philosophy and football. I learn pretty quickly it is quite easy to spot whom the locals were: they are the eclectic mix of tattooed bohemians who appear more or less in control of their faculties. The tourists are the fat, pasty Midwesterners stumbling sideways down the middle of the street with plastic go-cup in hand.

Checkpoint Charlie's New Orleans French Quarter

I settle in and start taking my notes for the day. I like bars like these. No bullshit. Cheap booze and food. Always populated by interesting people. They might seem seedy and intimidating to an outsider or a person weaned on nouveau-riche trust-fund baby nightclubs, but they are often the most friendly and welcoming joints out there. They lack the phony, contrived pretenses of the haute-bar scene. I once found the flash and trappings of those wealthy haunts appealing, until I got to know the people who frequented them and began to see through the façade. Years of working in the “Luxury” business have taught me that brands, places or people that cater/aspire to an image of luxury are not authentic. Places like Checkpoint Charlie’s are.

Ducati motorcycle in French Quarter New Orleans

It makes me realize how much I hate my day job. But that is a lament for another day and another venue.

I spot JT wheeling the Legacy out of a trailer across the street. I gather up my gear and head over. JT lives in the Studios, which is an open space that is more artist’s loft than garage. Pass through a glass façade and you'll encounter a heavily modified Harley flathead bobber, a Bimota SB8R, and the Magnolia Special.

Bienville Studios Magnolia Special

I had hoped the Special would be here. It is a staggering accomplishment, a beautiful neoclassical car built from scratch and powered by an alternative fuel that JT drove across the United States. But he seems almost embarrassed that I’m enamored by it. I’m here to talk bikes, why would I be interested in that thing? I don’t press any further. I will learn soon enough that he is a man who is always looking forward, not backwards at his previous work.

Bimota SB8R Motorcyle

While all the equipment and tools you'd expect in a builder's shop are present, there are a few details that distinguish Bienville Studios. Upstairs you’ll find a living area with a couple of spartan bedrooms. The shop is dusty and moderately chaotic but relatively well organized and filled with interesting objects, at least compared to the places I've worked. One rack is piled with spare parts and mockups from the Legacy. A lone Moto Guzzi twin sits on a stand in a corner. A bookshelf loaded with design yearbooks, pictorial histories, and art compendiums sits in the corner. Not the typical objets you’d expect in a run-of-the-mill garage. Instead of girlie posters the walls are littered with paintings, sketches and a few prints. Several of the artworks show a recurring pattern of interlocking circles and horizontal lines – this is JT’s design touchstone, his “circles and lines” framework. A pair of antiquated looking machines hang from the rafters, scarcely more than heavy-framed bicycles. One has a tiny single-cylinder engine. They are Simplexes, and they serve as symbols of two things: local industry, and what happens to those who fail to innovate. These are two important themes in JT’s work: he is fiercely loyal to New Orleans and he is always trying to innovate.

Simplex Motorcycle Bienville Studios

The bathroom is, however, exactly what you would expect in a garage. I had been warned about that bathroom by one of JT’s friends. "It couldn't be that bad" I thought.

It was that bad.

I was half tempted to go to the corner store and buy a case of bleach and disinfectant, just to lessen the Lovecraftian horror in store for the next poor soul who had to make use of the facilities. Fortunately we had more pressing matters to attend to.

We head over to one of JT's favourite haunts, Molly's At The Market on Decatur. He buys me an unidentified JT-special, a tall drink that is definitely of the sneak-up-behind-you-and-club-you-with-an-iron-fist-in-a-velvet-glove variety, and slaps a pack of Camels onto the table in front of me. Fuck. I'm an ex-smoker, free of the vice for just over a year. This is probably the last place in North America you can still smoke in bars ("Last bastion of freedom" according to JT), which makes it a bad place to be for a reformed smoker like myself. But I maintain my will, decline the smokes, and start drinking.

French Quarter New Orleans

We discuss life, motorcycle, and OddBike. JT is an intense, passionate individual - opinionated and not afraid to express his views. He is very intelligent and extremely perceptive. He is idealistic and refuses to compromise on his values, and has nothing but disdain for those who do. If you've read his more outspoken commentaries you already have an small indication of his intensity. It is not an internet-tough-guy routine that evaporates in real-life encounters. He really is that honest and direct, and he is not afraid to call people out on their bullshit.

Chatting with him as the night progresses I realize he has high hopes for my writing, as well as where OddBike can go in the future. This intimidates me. As I sit here in Molly’s and nurse my whiskey-somethingorother I suddenly dread that I won't live up to his expectations. I am a simple, young, freelance writer who has a dull day job and a passion for bikes. I'm still green and I lack experience. He throws some intense motorcycle-related philosophy at me and it sails clear over my head, my comprehension dulled by the booze.

By the end of my second drink my willpower has broken and I grab a cigarette. I immediately regret the decision, even in my tipsy state. I vow in my head that I would only cheat for this night, in this place, in this situation. When else will I have the opportunity to get drunk in New Orleans with one of the most famous motorcycle designers of our generation? Of course that calculated rationalization came later. At that moment my line of thinking was "fuckit to hell, I want a cigarette." And goddamned if it wasn't the most magnificent, head-lightening, nerve-easing smoke I've had since I first picked up the habit 9 years ago.

French Quarter New Orleans

I think JT was waiting for me to snap. I'm more relaxed now. I spend most of the evening listening, taking in the ideas he is throwing my way. I make no attempts to pretend to understand when he begins to lose me. As we both get progressively more smashed I quickly learn that he is man of many facets, far more than I had previously imagined. I will note I am piecing together the details after the fact, many elements having disappeared into the cloudy haze of a night of drinking, so apologies to JT if I missed anything important. I do recall that despite his purity of vision, he appreciates and enjoys a wide variety of bikes in terms of performance and design. He isn’t a snob - he appreciates good design wherever it may emerge. He adores the Yamaha R6, and would love to own a first-generation Suzuki GSX-R 1100. He has a deep respect for old British bikes and ran a Triumph dealership for two years. He wrote for Iron Horse magazine under the editorship of David Snow, a man who he credits with nurturing modern chopper culture (the legitimate, hands-on culture - not the phony OCC commercial bullshit). He has done a little bit of everything, and he speaks of his experiences with enthusiasm and passion.

He exhibits nothing but contempt for Soichiro Honda, a man who he deems a “destroyer”. Honda dominated the industry by crushing his contemporaries, in particular the British, when he could have helped them and developed a relationship of mutual advancement. He refused to share technology or expertise and mercilessly eliminated his competitors from the market. He asks why. Would it not have been better if both had existed side by side? Like many of JT’s thoughts it is perhaps an idealistic view, but it reveals a philosophy of motorcycles as being something more than digits on a spreadsheet.    

At some point in the evening he asks me what my favourite OddBike article is. I pause and think for a moment. Well it would probably be my first one, the Bimo- “Nope, wrong answer. Try again.” I dunno, I suppose I’m quite proud of the Nemb- “No. Do you want to know the answer?” He tells me how Alan Cathcart had asked Pierre Terblanche and Miguel Galuzzi what their favourite design was during a charity dinner at the Barber Museum on Friday. They too got it wrong. The best article (or the best motorcycle design, such as the case may be) “is the next one.” You must always look forward. It’s a point he repeats over and over. You may look to the past, and you may respect it, but you must not be determined by it.

By this time we are both properly drunk. We leave Molly’s to seek out food. JT takes me to a nearby restaurant, Mojo, where I have a fantastic steak and round out the evening with a glass of wine, which I am utterly unable to appreciate in my current state of inebriation. It’s now the halfway point of my trip, in terms of mileage and time. I have been on the road for a week and traveled 2000 miles. I significantly underestimated the length of the trip – I originally anticipated about 3000 miles, round trip. So much for my Google Maps estimate.

Tomorrow I will be conducting my proper, not blind drunk interview of JT and spending another day in New Orleans before I begin the long journey home.

Ducati motorcycle in New Orleans

OddBike USA Tour: Part IX - Bienville Studios

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French Quarter New Orleans

Part IX of the OddBike USA Tour Travelogue. Click here for Part IPart IIPart IIIPart IVPart VPart VIPart VII, and Part VIII.



I wake up Monday morning to the sound of a skittering creature in the shop. That would be JT's dog, Rivet, who was dropped off that morning. A tiny mongrel Chihuahua of some sort, Rivet is a hyperactive bug-eyed muppet who adds some life to Bienville Studios.

"What breed is he?" I ask JT while the snorting little gremlin is dancing around in front of me, scarcely able to contain his excitement at the prospect of a new human in the shop he can annoy.

"Namibian bat terrier."

"... Really?"

"No, I just made that up." 


Namibian Bat Terrier


I was thankfully free of hangover after our night of drinking in the French Quarter. On JT's recommendation I head over to Café Envie on Decatur to grab some black coffee and breakfast. Envie is a busy hangout spot, populated by locals and tourists alike. It's one of the myriad trendy espresso and pastry places you'll find in any city, located in early-20th century commercial buildings with lots of wood, brick, tall ceilings, and a collection of mid-century French advertisements hung on the walls. Exactly the same as everywhere else: they all try to be unique and homey but end up all looking the same, sharing the same aesthetics, the same décor, the same coffee, and the same bland food. It feels just like Montreal, minus the snobby service and propensity for the staff to use the deliberately ambiguous "Bonjour, hello" greeting that places specific emphasis on the French half to stay in the good graces of the Office québécois de la langue française. 30% more emphasis if the Office is to be appeased. Readers who speak French will note they call it the “Office” without one iota of irony.

I head back to the Studio and discover Rivet has nabbed the toothbrush from my luggage and appropriated it as his new chew toy. Little fucker.

Rivet the Little Toothbrush Stealing Bug Eyed Fucker

JT lends me a Suzuki Bandit 1200 to run downtown to pick up my temperature sensor, which is being held at the post office. He is clearly quite fond of the Bandit and sings praise for it before sending me off, hoping I’ll enjoy it as much as he does. I’m not so endeared by it. It’s comfy and the ergonomics are good for city riding, but it feels loose and lazy compared to the razor-sharp response of the 916. My short blast downtown is a lesson in contrasts. The Bandit suspension is soft, the brakes have a squishy feel despite stainless lines, and the throttle response is soft and slightly delayed. I forgot what a big four fed by CV carburettors felt like – snap the throttle and a short delay is followed by a slow swell of power. It lacks the right-the-fuck-now snap of a well-tuned fuel-injected twin, instead it feels like it needs to spool up slightly before it starts to stretch your arms. You need to relay your demands to the engine room before the old girl starts to hustle. But once it gets going it builds speed quickly, riding a nice fat torque curve from 3000 rpm up. It would be great as a comfy and stone-axe reliable all-rounder, but I will always prefer the brutality of my 916.

Suzuki Bandit 1200 New Orleans

There was a period of two years when I had put the 916 into storage, after moving from New Brunswick back to Quebec. Various reasons prompted this stupid decision, the main one being the prohibitively expensive Quebec registration rates (which was 1500$ per year at the time). One season I didn’t ride at all, the next I bought a beater 1984 Honda VF750F Interceptor to get around Montreal. The Interceptor felt somewhat like the Bandit – soft, comfy, a bit dull, sort of sporting but hardly a sport bike. I rode the VF to New Brunswick that year and pulled the 916 out of storage. I changed the timing belts and gave it a once over, then took it out to blast the cobwebs out. After riding the spongy Honda, a spin around town on the Ducati felt like a sledgehammer to the face. I was screaming inside my helmet, experiencing pure elation and a rush of pure, uncut adrenaline as I thundered up the street and slammed through the gears. I had forgotten how precise, how tight, how perfectly responsive it was. I had forgotten the explosive punch of the motor when it came on the cam. I had forgotten how fucking amazing it was to ride. It was the most intense experience I have had on a bike since I took those first tentative loops around a parking lot 10 years ago. I vowed on that day I would never neglect the 916 again. I sold the Honda at the end of that season and had the Ducati delivered to Montreal the following spring.

I arrive at the post office and discover they are closed. It’s Columbus Day. Shit. That means I will have to run to the office on Tuesday morning as soon as they open, grab the part, and then install it before I hit the road. This screws up my planning slightly, as I hoped to hit the road just after sunrise tomorrow so I could make a stop at Motus in Birmingham before their office closed. But I don’t have much choice at this point. I curse myself for having the sensor shipped here instead of Birmingham - I had forgotten about Saturday USPS service and could have gotten it installed before I left for New Orleans.

Bienville Studios New Orleans

I return to the Studio. I'm not really sure how to proceed at this point. I'm ostensibly here to interview JT, but I have no idea where to begin. I'm not a journalist as much as a guy who writes articles. My typical process is to research, write a draft, and then make note of areas where the piece seems weak or where details are ambiguous. It’s only after I've written the bulk of the article that I contact people and ask questions, because that is when I know what I'm missing. So my "interviews" are anything but, and often end up becoming friendly bike-related banter between two motorcycle enthusiasts more than a journalist sitting down with tape recorder and notepad asking hard-hitting questions. All of this to say: I'm not in my element when I sit down to interview JT Nesbitt with only a cursory overview of the Legacy to go on.

JT asks me what I want to do. I recall he mentioned that the Studio needed cleaning. So I offer to vacuum the shop. I'm a believer in earning my keep when someone is gracious enough to welcome me into his or her home. On Thursday I helped Winslow with his Triumph troubles. Today I'm cleaning JT Nesbitt's workshop.

"Now you have a good story to tell your grand kids."

I finish up and we finally sit down to have a proper conversation about JT's work. Last night was about philosophy - today is about design. We begin with the Wraith.

Confederate Wraith Sketch

While JT isn’t one to look backwards, you can’t speak about his work without referencing his time with Confederate and the Wraith. It is clearly a high point for him and he recalls the details with pride. He was a part of something special, and Matt Chambers was a man who understood Nesbitt’s ideals. Without Chambers, JT would never have had his big break in motorcycle design. Without the freedom that Confederate offered, he wouldn’t have been able to apply his uncompromising vision.

It begs the question: where would Nesbitt be without Confederate and Chambers, and where would Confederate and Chambers be without Nesbitt? Speaking to JT and hearing him share the stories and events of those days you can’t help but sense he cultivates an image of Chambers as a benevolent but misunderstood leader. He clearly has had a profound influence on JT.

The “Art of Rebellion” isn’t just a catchy motto, it’s Confederate’s modus operandi. And JT came away from his experience there with a set of uncompromising principles that are hard to fathom for those of us who weren’t there. His time with the company was a remarkable period that had a profound influence on his design philosophy and his personality. That’s why any discussion of JT’s work must include a reference to his time at Confederate and the designs he did there. You must not think of it as dwelling on the past or falling back onto past glories – it is the process of defining the context and the environment that allowed JT Nesbitt to become the designer he is today.

Bienville Legacy Sketch

We have hours of intense discussion about Confederate, the Wraith and the Legacy. It is a series of constant revelations, a stream of new details I had never heard before. This is the most interesting part about running OddBike – hearing the stories that no one has shared. You might think that various journalists have already published most of the interesting details over the years. You would be very, very wrong. I don’t know why this is. Are motorcycle journos simply missing the details that are set in front of them, putting aside key information in favour of useless press-release drivel? Are they consciously omitting elements to keep the higher-ups and advertisers happy? Maybe industry people are just not as forthcoming with “real” journalists as they are with freelance guys who don’t have an agenda to uphold. The answer is probably a combination of the three.

After several hours my head is spinning. I’m desperately scratching down notes throughout our conversation, trying to wrap my head around the design philosophies that JT is throwing at me. A few times I have to admit he lost me. It dawns on me that this is where I can do something better. I want to do something nobody has done before – profile JT and his work in a way that does justice to his ideas, without glossing over stuff because it is too esoteric or too difficult to understand. I make a point to never dumb down my writing, at least not anywhere below my own comprehension. That attempt will come in due time, once I have the opportunity to write the articles profiling the Legacy and the Wraith. I may not succeed, but I will try my damnedest to properly explain what JT has done and is doing here in New Orleans.

Bienville Legacy Motorcycle

By now it is getting late and it is time to go drinking again. We head back to Molly’s to continue our motorcycle-enthusiast banter. Now that the serious business is out of the way we can relax and share stories and opinions. It is a strange thing. We have been talking bikes continuously since I arrived, but never the same topics. You could compartmentalize the discussions into different subjects, and then split them between “personal” and “professional”. It isn’t just “talking about motorcycles”, as a singular topic, it is much more than that. Before I came down JT had mentioned that he was looking forward to having someone to talk shop with, because there wasn’t much of a motorcycle community in New Orleans. I thought this was funny because I am in the same situation in Montreal, where I know a few motorcycle riders but few who have the same level of interest that I do. So when we came together it became a huge release of pent-up stories and ideas on both sides. Many things were discussed, but the broad theme of this evening’s bar session is to remain open and within one’s realm of experience when expressing opinion - JT is continuing to prod my dislike of British machines. That, and the Suzuki RE-5 might be one of the most overrated motorcycles of all time.

Jackson Square New Orleans

Around 8pm, once we are both good and primed with beer and liquor, JT announces that he is going home and expects me to explore the Quarter on my own. I’ve been in New Orleans for two days and still haven’t done the touristy stuff, so it’s time to get that over with before I head home tomorrow. He sees me off and I venture out, beer in hand, wandering through the area with no particular destination in mind.

Mississippi River New Orleans

I pay a visit to Jackson Square and stop to take notes on the shores of the Mississippi, watching the out-of-towners pose for photos and stumble around the landmarks. Want to look like a local? Just stay sober. I don’t think I’ve ever been to a place that is so blatantly and unashamedly aimed at hustling tourists out of their sobriety. Then again I’ve never been to Las Vegas.

Mississippi River New Orleans

I had this thought before I arrived at Bourbon Street, which turned out to be a zone of such utterly comical decadence that I couldn’t get away from it fast enough. Even in my tipsy state I simply couldn’t stand being surrounded by a bunch of drunken, ugly, middle-aged revellers. I recalled some half-remembered scene from a Hunter S. Thompson tale, probably from “The Kentucky Derby is Decadent and Depraved” or some such social commentary masquerading as a piece of journalism. I’m surrounded by greasy, distorted faces twisted into unsettling grins, glazed expressions of merriment brought on by copious amounts of booze and jazz. There are only two types of people here: stumbling, sloppy drunks and the people taking advantage of them. I quickly cut through the crowd and pass the worst of it, the crowds gradually dispersing and the venues becoming less and less contrived.

French Quarter New Orleans

I end up in some of the residential areas of the Quarter. The streets are quiet and empty, the buildings framed by the dim light of gas lanterns. It’s eerie and beautiful. The architecture is stunning and punctuated by flourishes of lush vegetation here and there. It seems so incongruous that there would be stunning houses and apartments here, most likely million-dollar properties, so close to the epicentre of depravity of the Southeast. Softly lit alleyways leading to colonial courtyards are simultaneously inviting and slightly menacing. “You’ll feel like a vampire is gonna jump out and get you” as JT had put it earlier, a grin on his face as he sent me on my way.

French Quarter New Orleans

I’m beginning to feel pensive as I begin sobering up. After tonight I begin the long journey home. I will be returning to my mundane life. It is a thought that bothers me intensely. Earlier in the evening I had mentioned this to JT. His response was simple: why don’t I move? Why don’t I do something about it? It’s a good point. I am the agent of my own destiny. Sitting idle and whining about how much I hate my life isn’t going to get fuck all done about the situation. I have always had a certain fear of instability, of taking a great leap into the unknown. But this trip and my discussions with JT are beginning to shift my mindset. I am realizing that I need to take a risk to move forward, and this trip was the first step towards breaking my fear of the unknown. I hopped on a legendarily unreliable and uncomfortable sport bike and rode across the United States with barely enough money to complete the journey. It has been the most amazing experience of my short life. The gears are now turning in my head as I contemplate how I can escape my monotonous existence and move forward with my life.


French Quarter New Orleans

I complete my tour of the Quarter and return to Café Envie to grab a coffee and a sandwich. I take my notes for the day. Eccentric and eclectic people are coming and going, grabbing their late night snacks and sustaining their nighthawk habits with free-trade caffeine infusions. New Orleans has had the most interesting mixture of people of all the places I’ve been to so far, certainly an appealing mix if you are tired of the dull keeping-up-with-the-Jones homogeneity of most cities.

My notes completed and my cup empty, it’s time to go to bed. I want to be well rested for my voyage tomorrow, as it will be the first leg of the long ride back home.      

   French Quarter New Orleans

OddBike USA Tour: Part X - Heading Home

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Ducati 916 Motorcycle Louisiana Coast

Part X of the OddBike USA Tour Travelogue. Click here for Part IPart IIPart IIIPart IVPart VPart VIPart VIIPart VIII, Part IX.

Tuesday morning I get up early and take the Bandit to the USPS office in downtown New Orleans to grab the coolant sensor. I cut through the morning traffic and narrowly avoid getting T-boned by an asshole in a hulking SUV who has apparently decided that right of way is determined in inverse proportion to penis size. Here is where the Bandit is at home - it's a bit big to call it a city bike, but it does the job admirably considering it's an oil-cooled 1152cc stump puller. Rough roads are absorbed well by the slightly squishy suspension. The wide bars give lots of leverage and the steering it surprisingly quick. The brakes are strong once you get past the mushy lever. Having had a set of six-piston Tokicos on my Suzuki SV650, I'll say that with a set of sintered pads, stainless lines, and DOT 5.1 fluid they can work damned well.


Ducati 916 Motorcycle Louisiana Coast

I return to Bienville Studios where JT helps me swap out the offending widget. He slathers the thread of the sensor with some aircraft grade sealant, overkill but at least I know that won't be leaking on the way home. I picture Elwood Blues pulling a deus ex device out of his briefcase: "Strong stuff."

I wheel the 916 out to the entrance and start packing my gear. JT takes a seat on it, clearly in admiration of the machine. He looks a little out of place - I vaguely recall someone describing the 916 as an 8/10ths scale replica of what you expected it to be, and that's a pretty accurate description. For a mid-1990s 900cc superbike it is ridiculously compact and narrow. Period reviews compared the dimensions as being closer to a 250 than a litrebike. Seeing a 6'4" rider perched on top of one, contorting himself  into a crouch to fit into the tight dimensions, you start to realize why they got a reputation for being uncomfortable. I have no such problems, being 5'7" and pretty slim. I am the "Mid-size Italian pimp" these bikes were designed for.

Ducati 916 Motorcycle Louisiana Coast

JT had told me a few months back to knock off my 916 fanboy routine, referring to the numerous articles I had written on the subject. He prodded me while I was visiting - I must like the image, the idea of having a 916. He seemed to assume there was an element of vanity in my love of the machine, that I praise it because of what it is, not because of how it is. But that isn't the case at all. I simply adore that bike and nothing I've ever ridden gives me the same rush, and despite being a young punk I have ridden quite a few machines over the years. I write a lot about the 916 because A. it's the only vehicle I've owned for the past seven years, B. I know it pretty well, and C. I genuinely fucking love it. If something comes along that does it better and has the same emotional impact, I'll buy it. But I still haven't found that machine.

Watching JT sit on the Ducati and look over the details, I think he has more respect for the 916 than he lets on. He certainly has high regard for Massimo Tamburini - he is one of the few motorcycle designers who has actually built bikes and chassis, rather than simply styling them before handing the sketches off to a committee of workers to do the dirty stuff. Tamburini has paid his dues with hands-on work and this gives him a unique insight into the design process that many stylists lack.

Ducati 916 Motorcycle Louisiana Coast

 I've often said that the only bike I would consider trading the 916 on would be an MV Agusta F4, the "other" Tamburini masterwork. There are some days when I actually mean it, usually when I'm elbow deep in the 916 hunting some elusive electrical gremlin. During the dead of winter one year I attended the Montreal Salon de la Moto. MV was present and I had a seat on the F4. My heart immediately jumped into my throat. The seating position and controls were instantly familiar - it was the only bike I've ever sat on that had the same ergonomics as my 916. The connection between the two designs was readily apparent in a very physical way. It may seem silly but that instant recognition, of feeling immediately at home, almost made me cry. If you don't understand why I got choked up sitting on a bike at a dealer stand, then you probably also don't see the appeal of Italian bikes. 

I am sorely disappointed I didn't have the opportunity to take JT's SB8R for a spin. He had offered me the chance last night but I don't have time, I need to get to Birmingham and my morning repair session has set me back. Hopefully someday in the future we will have the opportunity to swap bikes and compare notes. Sitting on the Bimota revealed that Ducati has nothing on the boys from Rimini when it comes to building a staggeringly uncomfortable machine. The narrow clip-ons felt like they were attached somewhere around the front mudguard, and you can't move them higher without hitting the massive arched intake snorkels which are jammed up into your face.

Ducati 916 Louisiana Coast

I load my luggage and start warming up the bike. It seems to be running well, though it isn't cold enough to reveal the flooding issue I was having earlier. JT notes that my front brake lights aren't working. Without thinking I give the standard response: a wave of the hand and the "It's Italian" excuse. It's like a reflex, I can't help it. Later on I hunted down the loose connection that was causing the issue and restored some peace of mind while riding through traffic. It wouldn't be the first time I've ridden through city traffic with no brake lights. I've gotten into the habit of doing a pre-flight electrical check before each ride because "It's Italian."

Alabama

I hit the road and make my way to Birmingham. Once again  I endure the dull Mississippi Interstate, but this time I don't make the mistake of stopping for lunch at a crappy off-ramp fast food joint. Nope, I'm going to be sensible and stop at a crappy off-ramp quasi-homestyle food joint - Cracker Barrel. If you've never been to the US you might not be aware of the chain of "Southern country theme" restaurants-slash-gift shops that dot the country, which are not to be confused with the equally phony Kraft cheeses. They are as ubiquitous as they are contrived. They are all identical and designed to vaguely resemble a country store, walls loaded with old-timey nostalgic nonsense. They combine a tacky gift shop crammed with cornball seasonal items with a quote-unquote "homestyle" restaurant. They have two redeeming features - they sell something other than greasy hamburgers, and they have a cheap lunch menu.


I order a "homestyle" (of course) meatloaf and a cup of coffee. It's surprisingly tasty, but I can't get over the goofy decor and overly-friendly staff. It feels totally manufactured. Authentic it is not. I stare at one of the supposedly vintage advertisements on the wall. How would I know they didn't invent all these defunct brands? How do I know Nichol Kola actually existed? Maybe it was just the product of a Cracked Barrel boardroom meeting, the brainchild of a committee of Madison Avenue suits who were attempting to concoct some vaguely old-fashioned sounding wall decor.

The waitress breaks character to reveal she rides a motorcycle as well. A GSX-R750. With nitrous installed. And it's her first bike. She really wanted a 600 (to be sensible) but ended up with this instead, but it's OK cause she never uses the NOS.

Cracker Barrel doesn't serve calamari, but they apparently hire them. Sorry if you happen to read this Ms. Nitrosevenfifty, but in a couple of years you will understand why I find your choice of starter bike absolutely ridiculous and totally appalling. Maybe sooner if you happen to test out the nitrous.
    
I reach Birmingham around 5.30 and get lost trying to head straight for the Motus factory to see if I can stop in for a visit before they close. Again I'm stymied by the city's awful planning and end up going to the right address, but on the wrong side of town. I get back onto the Interstate and head towards where I think Winslow's house was, but get lost - again. Fuck. I pull over and call Winslow to make arrangements to meet him so he can lead me around - again. While I wait for him to finish work I pick up a toothbrush to replace the one that Rivet commandeered in New Orleans.

Finally I am reunited with my guide. Following Winslow to his house I realize I was even more lost that I originally thought, and that if I had made any attempt to figure out my way around town I would have ended up somewhere around Tuscaloosa. This is the problem with being an old fashioned luddite who refuses to use GPS. I can read a map and I can plan a route, but if I go even slightly off course I'm properly fucked until I can hassle the locals to get me back on track.

Jim N Nick's BBQ Birmingham Alabama

Once again I ask Winslow to take me to the barbeque. This time we head to a more upscale joint, Jim 'N Nick's in downtown Birmingham. It is upscale by virtue of not being a smoke-filled box with broken windows out front. The food and beer is good, but I can't help think that I would have been happier going back to Saw's Soul Kitchen. In terms of the actual food, Saw's has this place beat and it was half the price. Who needs atmosphere or clean tables when you can have the most magnificent slab of meat ever crafted by human hands?

Tennessee

Wednesday arrives and it's time to continue heading north. I'm not interested in the dull Interstates of Georgia this time around: I've decided to head up through Tennesse and cut across the Great Smoky Mountains into North Carolina.

Great Smoky Mountains National Park

Winslow helps me plan a rough route before I leave. I'll take the Interstate up through Chattanooga towards Knoxville then head east along the secondary routes until I reach the mountains. The route looks like a tantalizing ribbon of road that is filled with switchbacks, hairpins and sweeping curves. On the other side of the Smokies I can get onto the Blue Ridge Parkway for some more twisty bits. I'm looking forward to doing some real riding for the first time in about 2500 miles.

Great Smoky Mountains National Park

I ride through the remainder of Alabama and into Tennessee. Once again the landscape starts to change. I climb into higher elevations along ever-more remote stretches of Interstate lined with hills and thick greenery. The forests are reminiscent of the thick woodland of my home province of New Brunswick, but the lack of winter weather promotes the growth of vines and shrubs that envelope the tree trunks and give the scene a slight jungle vibe. It's lush and beautiful, as green as green can be even in the late Fall.

Southern Powersports Honda Chattanooga Tennessee

After my throttle hand falls asleep for the 837th time I finally snap and decide to locate a Throttle Rocker. I follow some billboards for a Honda powersports dealer and head into Chattanooga. After meandering through a rough-looking industrial park I am relieved to discover a modern, well stocked dealership that is packed to the walls with motorcycles and ATVs of every description. If I'm going to find my throttle aid anywhere, it's going to be here among the racks of chrome dress-up baubles and chain lube. Sure enough they have them in stock and with I hit the road again, feeling somewhat embarrassed that I have resorted to installing a duckbill on the grip to continue the journey. I'm the sort of masochist who prefers to maintain absolute control at all times, comfort be damned - I don't even like using cruise control when I'm driving a car. Maybe it has something to do with my perverted desire to use the most inappropriate equipment for the most difficult jobs. But riding a 916 for anything more than 50 miles will cut the circulation to your hands to the point where you can't feel the controls. Try working the brakes when your fingers are completely asleep. Not fun or safe, so sissy duckbill it is.

Ducati 916 Motorcycle Throttle Rocker

I turn off the main Interstate onto a secondary road that cuts east into the mountains through Lenoir and Marysville. As I pull off I am getting psyched up for some nice roads. I gas up and have a snack, relaxing a bit and preparing myself for some twisty routes.

So you can imagine my anger when I get stuck in a series of tiny communities with lazy traffic, heavy road work, absurdly low speed limits, and generally boring roads. It's still a ways until I reach the Smokies, and to get there I need to ride through these infuriating 30-55 mph zones littered with State Troopers, slow drivers, and construction.

Great Smoky Mountains National Park

Once I approach Townsend the road starts to get interesting. The route climbs steadily higher into the Appalachians and the mist-capped peaks of the Smokies are coming into view. The corners are getting tighter. I enter the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, which leads a fork in the road. Not remembering which way I'm supposed to go, I take a gamble and head right towards Cades Cove. Not far after the fork the road narrows and twists through a beautiful untouched forest, bright fall foliage shining bright against the cloudy grey afternoon sky. It's a treacherous route, with no shoulder and surprisingly heavy traffic. There is more traffic here than there was on the Interstate. I am not in my element at all - after a long day of riding I'm now dodging traffic on a tight mountain pass and I'm losing focus.

Great Smoky Mountains National Park Stone Bridge

The bike still isn't running quite right, with very snatchy throttle response in the midrange - probably a combination of E10, high altitude, and slightly out of balance throttle bodies. I'm pogoing through the corners like a green rider, desperately trying to keep the revs in a range where the bike doesn't buck and surge. I keep telling myself "commit to the turn and keep on the throttle" but I'm not having much luck. Add the steady flow of traffic, with hulking SUVs and minivans crowding into my lane around sharp turns, and it is clear I need to stop before I screw up. I pull over at a scenic stop to take photos and have a snack. I'm too tired to continue and I'm not even sure I took the right way at the fork, so I decide to turn around and head back to Townsend to stop for the night.

Ducati 916 Great Smoky Mountains National Park

I ride back to the Great Smoky Mountains Heritage Center to get some info and pick up a map. The Center's guide, a fellow rider, shows me the correct route to get to the Blue Ridge Parkway. He notes that the heavy traffic is due to the fact that the National Park was reopened today, after having been closed as part of the Federal shutdown. He warns that it is too late to head through the pass - after dark it's far too dangerous to ride, what with the lack of lighting and the prevalence of wildlife. I heed his advice and ask for a local motel that won't rip me off. He seems surprised by the question, and answers vaguely that they are all clean and fairly priced. I figured that seeing how he was a motorcyclist, a brother, he would give me the inside scoop and tell me which place I should go to and what the secret code was to avoid the naive tourist markup. But he was apparently in on the scheme.

Great Smoky Mountains National Park

I head down the road to one of the motels he mentioned. I pull into the parking lot and note a rather steep incline. I stop the bike and flip down the sidestand. The bike is standing bolt upright on the sloping ground. I wiggle a bit and think to myself "should be fine". I had my kickstand break a few years back and I replaced it with an item off a Streetfighter. The mount is the same but the bracket holds the bike at a higher angle. Fine on level ground, but tricky on slopes.

I hop off to the right and the bike topples onto me. I try to catch the bars but it's too late, the weight of the machine hits me in full and knocks me backwards into a wooden fence. I hear the sharp crack of the fence post nailing the side of my helmet just behind the visor. My first reaction is "it's a good thing I still have my helmet on." My second reaction is "holy sweet mother of fuck I just dropped my 916."

I leap to my feet in a flurry of panic and pure uncut rage. I'm angry at myself for not paying attention and parking the opposite way so that the kickstand would have been going down the slope. I'm angry that I've dumped my baby. I did knock it over once, accidentally bumping the rear wheel with a car in my parent's garage and tipping it into the snowblower that was parked next to it. There is still a 4 inch scar on the left side of the tank from that incident. But this is the first time I've ever properly dropped it. And to make my feel even more inadequate at that moment, I can't pick it up against the slope of the parking lot.

To make me feel better while I relate this awful experience, here's a picture of a pretty brook.

After a minute of straining to get it lifted, I run over to someone who seated on the porch in front of the motel. He hasn't flinched since I pulled in, apparently completely oblivious to the fact that I just dropped my fucking motorcycle and bashed my head against a fence post 30 feet in front of him. I momentarily suppress my rage and calmly ask if he would help me lift it up. He agrees, then asks the dumbest question he could have possibly mustered at that moment: "Why did you drop it?". I refrain from telling him what I really thought of his catastrophically idiotic question and set about righting the machine.

Ducati 916 Damage

I turn it around and park it properly before surveying the damage. I am lucky. There is a scuff on the lower fairing and some marks on the bar end and brake lever. The saddlebags have cushioned the tail and kept most of the bike off the ground. My helmet has a scuff from the impact against the fence and will need replacing, but is intact. I thank the unnamed fellow for his help and he returns to surveying the main road from his rocking chair. I wonder why he didn't come over and check to see if I was alright when I fell. Sometimes I forget that the prevailing attitude among non-riders is that I'm just a faceless, nameless biker, an extension of a loud and unpleasant mode of transportation that clutters up their blind spots. I'm certainly not a human being as far as they are concerned.

Bad Mojo Motel

There is no one present at the motel office. Another visitor pulls in and calls the owner, who sounds quite uninterested in coming out to greet us. 85$ a night, plus tax, take it or leave it. This for a run-of-the-mill motel that looks like it hasn't been refreshed since about 1978. The other visitor and I agree that is pretty steep considering what is on offer. I decide that based on my mishap this place has bad mojo and I will not be staying here. I head to the Best Western down the road.

Overprice Motel

Once again I overpay for a room in a mediocre hotel. In fact the rate is even higher here in the middle of nowhere than it was in Pennsylvania. It immediately becomes clear that all the lodging in this town rips off us hapless tourists - they are the only options for miles along a busy route right ahead of a major National Park, so no surprise there. That explains why the guide at the Heritage Center sounded kind of cagey when he responded to my question. Given my present state of mind and the fast setting sun, I'm in no mood to hunt down a better deal or camp for the night. At least the clerk gives me some fresh cookies - that totally makes up for paying 120$ for a room in Dolly Parton land. I vow that from here on it's going to be Super 8s or nothing.

Because of course.

I take a well deserved shower before walking over to the local supermarket to grab some food. I pick up a roast beef sandwich, some pork rinds, and a tallboy of Miller Light before settling in for a night of Discovery channel reality shows. "When in Rome."

When in Rome

OddBike USA Tour: Part XI - Appalachian Fog

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Ducati 916 motorcycle in the fog of the Great Smoky Mountains

Part XI of the OddBike USA Tour Travelogue. Click here for Part IPart IIPart IIIPart IVPart VPart VIPart VIIPart VIIIPart IX, Part X.


After my miserable afternoon of dodging homicidal family haulers in the Smokies and dumping my bike in the parking lot of a shitty motel, I was looking forward to a new day to refresh my outlook and get some proper riding done. Something that would make up for all those hours on the Interstate. Today I ride the Blue Ridge Parkway. A run through the gnarliest, twistiest roads on the map this side of the Tail of the Dragon.


Great Smoky Mountains Lookout

I could have easily headed for that infamous North Carolina hotspot but I generally prefer to avoid the "must ride" routes that everyone and their grandma know about. Most of the time they are either disappointing or loaded with traffic. You can bet that any popular riding road will be overpopulated by squids going too fast, cruiser/touring barges going too slow, and law enforcement pissing everyone off. To paraphrase George Thorogood "When I ride alone I prefer to be by myself." Everything I'd heard about Deals Gap suggested it was a great place to see and do once, but if you wanted to ride some nice roads without risking your ass and dodging douchebags on Yamondazukawas there were plenty of other alternatives in the Appalachians. I decide I'll stick to the Smokies and the Blue Ridge Parkway near the Tennessee border, which looks plenty technical on the map. 

So imagine my delight when I wake up early and pull the blinds open to reveal a cold, wet morning. Today is the only day I am expecting to do anything other than Interstate and it's raining.

Great Smoky Mountains Road

I haven't got much choice in the matter. I have to be home by Sunday to go back to work next week, so I can't spare an extra day of screwing around. I also can't afford to blow another 120$ on an overpriced room. To try and extract every last penny's worth out of my poor choice of lodging I take advantage of yet another completely underwhelming continental breakfast - the "best around" according to the sign out front, which may have been true given how much of an overpriced tourist trap this town turned out to be. Once I'm sufficiently primed with black coffee and bacon "so thin the pig didn't feel it coming off his arse" I suit up and put on my rain gear, prepared to face the gauntlet of a riding a wet, twisty road on a cold mountain morning.

Appalachian Mountains Tennessee

I head back into the Smokies, staying mindful of the slick conditions. Autumn leaves are covering the road and making riding pretty treacherous. Even at this early point, just after dawn, there is a surprising amount of traffic on the road. Once again I'm out of my element, my attention absorbed by the worrisome road surface and the increasingly rough throttle response. I'm focusing all my attention on just riding smoothly, scarcely able to enjoy the road. 

Great Smoky Mountains Tennessee

I slow down and relax. If I can't ride properly, I might as well turn down the wick and take in the scenery. This is where the Smokies are unparalleled. The road climbs steadily higher into the mountains, with regular lookout points revealing lush fog-capped peaks that are so beautiful they seem unreal. Everything is overgrown, nary a clearing in sight, and the whole scene is painted in a spectacular palette of colours that you won't find anywhere else. This is the sort of landscape I enjoy. I don't dream about tropical beaches or African plains like most people would. I'm happier here, among the tall trees and expansive vistas. This is the landscape of my youth, turned up to 11. I have no desire to lounge around "luxury" resorts, sitting on my ass in the hot sun until my skin is roasted to a perfect "vacationing accountant" shade of red. I'd be better off here, with a group of friends, a flat of beer, and a roaring bonfire casting dancing shadows into the treeline as the sun sets over the mountains.

Then the battery of my camera dies. Not having any spare batteries I'm forced to switch to my backup - my crappy old iPod touch. Better than nothing, but I was angry that my proper camera would conk out here in the middle of this stunning wilderness. I make a note to buy extra battery packs before my next trip.

Mist on the Great Smoky Mountains

As I crest one of the peaks I spot a flock of twenty or so wild turkeys milling around next to the road. They are mostly hens, far less noble in appearance than the heavily plumage'd males, with tiny heads perched on skinny necks above teardrop-shaped bodies. They are goofy looking creatures. They look up and cock their heads as I roll by. They don't seem to be bothered by traffic. I turn around a short while later and head back to take photos, but they have already moved on.

Great Smoky Mountains

Traffic is getting heavier as the morning progresses and I find myself getting stuck behind family haulers trundling along at glacial pace. Even my "slow" wet-weather riding pace would blitz these catatonic drivers, which says a lot about the dynamics of a good sport bike. I'm not a fast rider by any means, and the 916's performance is "quaint" by modern sportbike standards, but I still can't keep this diabolical thing below 60 mph under any conditions. The speedometer doesn't even read below 20 mph. Whenever I drive a car (a rare occurrence, because until recently I didn't own one) I'm shocked by how much more of a sense of speed I have - and how terrifying twisty roads are when you are navigating a 3000 pound box of metal and glass on wheels. Navigating being the key descriptor - I never feel like I'm in control, no matter how tight the handling might be. I'm a motorcycle guy through and through, and I only feel at ease when I'm on two wheels.

Great Smoky Mountains Road

I continue along, stopping regularly at the overlooks to take photos and wait for traffic to thin out. The fog is now descending - or to be more accurate I'm ascending into it as I ride higher into the mountains. It's a dense, cold fog, the sort of impenetrable mist you would see in a movie. I'm not accustomed to this kind of poor visibility outside of a blizzard - we have fog up north, but almost never this heavy. It's so thick I start losing sight of the taillights of the vehicles in front of me. Whenever this happens I flick on my turn signals to try and make myself slightly more visible in this grey soup. Ducati never saw fit to put hazard lights on their machines, an oversight I am now aware of. I keep a close eye on my mirrors to make sure no one is sneaking up behind me, not much of a risk in these conditions but one that any seasoned rider is always aware of.

Great Smoky Mountains Road

Traffic gets heavier and heavier as I progress along the route. I am stuck behind a row of ten cars threading their way through the mist, with more vehicles cutting in and out of the line at overlook stops. This is a beautiful road, but it is not a good riding road given how busy it is. The illusion of being isolated in the middle of an untouched, awe-inspiring landscape is shattered somewhat by getting stuck in a minor traffic jam behind a series of minivans and SUVs loaded with bratty kids and camping gear.

Ducati in the fog of the Great Smoky Mountains

I miss the turnoff for the Blue Ridge Parkway at the exit of the National Park. It's very easy to overlook. A tiny wooden sign points to what looks like a driveway, not the entrance to a well-known mountain road. I thought the sign must be referring to the main route up ahead - but nope, that was it. It looks quite unassuming and rather underwhelming.

Blue Ridge Parkway North Carolina

It isn't. What follows after turning off at that T junction are some of the finest motorcycle roads I've ever had the good fortune of sampling. Not the twistiest, not the fastest, not the most ludicrously challenging roads - just the best confidence-inspiring twisties you could hope for. Clear visibility and long sightlines, steady radius, good camber, and a perfectly maintained surface. Challenging enough to be fun, but not overwhelming. The road is wider and has more runoff space that the Smoky route, which inspires a bit more confidence. And unlike in the Smokies traffic is very light along the Parkway. Even in these wet, miserable, foggy conditions I'm in awe of how goddamn good this road is.

Ducati Motorcycle Blue Ridge Parkway North Carolina

Then there are the lookout points. I'm now on those fog-peaked mountains I saw in the distance back in the National Park. The visuals are spectacular. Where the Smoky road was treacherous and disappointing, the Parkway is much better than I expected it would be. The fact that this is just one little road along hundreds of miles of mountain passes that make up the Parkway is mind blowing - this tiny stretch is one of the best riding roads I've seen in a long time, probably even better than the roads of the Cabot Trail where I cut my teeth as a sport rider.

Fog on the Blue Ridge Parkway

Americans don't even know how lucky you are to have such beautiful, fun and perfectly maintained roads at your disposal. We have equally twisty routes in Eastern Canada but they are more often than not a maddeningly short stretch of good road surrounded by a hundred miles of abject nothingness in every direction, and even the best riding spots are usually dotted with frost heaves, bad camber, cracked pavement, slippery tarsnakes, and rim-bending potholes. And let's not forget the bane of our existence: gravel strewn across the apexes, kicked up by idiot car drivers who frequent the same roads and play wannabe racecar driver by clipping the inside shoulder in their "stanced" Civics. We Canuck riders have learned to adapt to the shitty conditions and dangerous obstacles, so when we are given free run on a properly good motorcycle road it's fucking orgasmic.

Ducati Motorcycle on the Blue Ridge Parkway

Unfortunately my fun is cut short by the fog, which begins to thicken as soon as I start climbing up in elevation. It's even worse here than it was in the Smokies. Visibility is no more than 50 or 60 feet. I stop to have lunch at a lookout point, where the mist is so thick that it is obscuring the embankment on the other side of the road. I'm struck by how haunting this scene is, much like the eerie side streets of the French Quarter I encountered on my last night in New Orleans. I don't care about the riding anymore. I don't care about the weather and how cold I am. I've resigned myself to simply attempting to take in the overwhelming beauty of the landscape.

Ducati Motorcycle Blue Ridge Parkway

I exit the Parkway and merge onto the Great Smoky Mountains Expressway, heading back along the same route I took on my way south. From here on it is back to the dull Interstate routine through North Carolina and into Virginia. I spend the rest of the day riding through showers and generally unpleasant conditions, with the Roanoke area as my destination for the day. No camping this time around, I'm going to hunt down a Super 8 for a cheap room and a hot shower after a long day of cold, wet riding.

Ducati 916 Blue Ridge Parkway

I got turned on to Super 8s by an uncle who used to regularly traverse Canada by car. In his opinion they were the best compromise between cheap and comfortable. I'd agree. Better yet, they are everywhere - you are always within 50 miles of one on practically any stretch of highway. They are not luxurious but they are reasonably well maintained, as long as you don't mind a few cigarette burns in the furniture and the smell of industrial-strength cleaning products. For 60-odd bucks a night you really can't complain.

When was the last time you saw a tube TV

I find one off the I-81 in Radford, Virginia. Radford turns out to be a small university town. I know the type. I attended St Francis Xavier in Antigonish, Nova Scotia. I studied there for two years before I transferred to McGill in Montreal. Antigonish is the prototypical student town. About 4000 permanent residents are outnumbered by around 5000 students. Practically everything in the village caters to the student population. There were way more bars than you'd expect for a place of that size, and they were almost always filled to capacity on the weekends (and 5$ pitcher Wednesdays). There was also a disproportionate amount of violent crime for a sleepy Maritime town - apparently sticking a bunch of horny and newly independent kids in a bumfuck town with nothing but booze and drugs to keep them entertained will breed all manner of unpleasant scenarios. I remember at least two stabbings in my time there, lots of violent attacks that got swept under the rug as "house rivalries", and my own conflicts with bullies and thugs.

Yellow Face Blue Ridge Parkway

The environment was toxic and conspiratorial, with hints that the management and faculty were ignoring issues if not suppressing them entirely. It was a bad place to "come of age" as a young adult and I ended up earning a lot of emotional scars and committing some serious fuckups of my own. I couldn't leave fast enough and transferred to McGill at the first opportunity. Those two years at X were the darkest days of my short life and moving to Montreal was the best decision I could have made. Since then I've always been leery of these "quaint" university towns because I know firsthand what lurks beneath the idyllic and respectable presentation put on by the higher-ups.    

 Fog in the Great Smoky Mountains

After I settle in at the motel I head into downtown in search of a decent meal. The day's rain has given way to a warm, sunny evening. I'm content to walk several miles into town and leave the bike parked for the night. There are the expected upper middle class suburbs surrounding the university, with lots of frat houses and student housing as you get closer to campus. A small downtown core has a series of little restaurants, bars and cafes that are clearly geared towards the student population, who are present in droves. Banners and signs are hanging everywhere dedicated to homecoming; you'd think there was nothing else in the town except Radford University, which is effectively the case. A surprising number of religious institutions are present - there are seminaries and churches of various denominations along the main road, and a few explicitly religious student organizations. I'm not sure if this is due to a certain strong Christian culture in the South, or if it is specific to this town. It's an interesting contrast to the dominance of the university campus. Secularism and religion, facing off on opposite sides of the street in a quiet Virginia town.

Fog along the Blue Ridge Parkway

Quiet until a diesel-powered, lifted-suspension, tinted-window BroTruck (TM) goes tearing up main street at full throttle, smoke billowing out of five-inch exhausts, empty trailer in tow bouncing across the pavement. He is presumably in a hurry to get to the nearest kegger. That's a display of the unbridled, testosterone-fueled macho bravado I was expecting - just like the youthful, unchecked hubris I dealt with at St FX. It's not an isolated example - I notice a lot of lifted and be-stickered heavy-duty pickups parked around town.

Ducati 916 in the Fog

I stop a passing student and ask where I can get a good meal and a beer, and she refers me to the local bar and grill. It's a familiar sight, and would look at home in Antigonish or any other student town. A slightly unkempt bar with the local sport of choice on the overhead TVs,  with attractive women waiting tables and politely blowing off the advances of horny young patrons. A decent selection of beer and drink, mostly domestic with the expected cliche import brews. It has the usual mediocre grill-pub fare on the menu: a plethora of burgers, sandwiches, and deep-fried everything, all served with fries. I opt for the day's special, a "rib eye" steak with baked potato and salad. I order a Samuel Adams Octoberfest, which is apparently the most exotic and dark beer they have on offer that doesn't start with G and end with Uinness.

The meal is everything I could have hoped for in a place like this - an impenetrably rubbery steak and supermarket-grade salad with gum-slicing croutons. The loaded potato was good but it is also pretty hard to screw up a baked potato, especially if you put bacon and cheese on it.

Fog in the Blue Ridge Parkway

The waitress is an attractive young woman (surprise) from Delaware. She is, as you'd expect, a student at Radford. I take the opportunity to practice my social skills and be a charming young man, something I don't have much opportunity to do while working in a snobby retail environment that caters exclusively to rich old white men. I am careful not to fall into the trap of becoming just another one of those horny young men she likely has to endure throughout every shift. I tell her about the trip and my journey, my adventures, where I'm from. She reveals a few details about herself. I give her my card and encourage her to follow the trip on the site.

I make no other advances, even though I have nothing to lose here during my only night in this town. In the back of my mind I keep thinking about how draining it must be to constantly deal with drunken men making awkward passes. Not that I wouldn't want to make one of those awkward passes myself, but I'm a "gentleman". That means I'm too nice for my own good and too shy to make a decisive move. I wish her well and leave a generous tip. Mediocre food or not she deserves it for putting up with the boys in a university town, as well as the odd lonely Canadian biker.

I walk back to the motel and settle in for yet another night of crappy cable TV. Tomorrow will be another step closer to reality.

Fog in the Blue Ridge Parkway

Bienville Legacy - The American Super Bike

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Bienville Legacy Motorcycle Dash


Motorcycle design is a field that has many pretenders but few true practitioners. There are plenty of motorcycle stylists, men and women who draw forms on paper and then outsource the headaches of realization to a team of engineers and technicians. But people who can craft a machine from start to finish, from notepad to road, are virtually nonexistent. These are true designers who can conceive, sketch, fabricate and build a motorcycle from start to finish. J.T. Nesbitt is one of these few true designers. The Bienville Legacy is the much-anticipated follow up to Nesbitt’s seminal Confederate Wraith.

More than a mere motorcycle, the Legacy is the culmination of two distinct philosophies coming together – the uncompromising design ideas of J.T. Nesbitt, and the sustainable social principles put forward by The American Design and Master Craft Initiative (ADMCi). The Legacy has an important role to play in the future of American design that may not be apparent at first glance.



Bienville Legacy Motorcycle

Beginnings

Nesbitt is a man who is well respected in the motorcycle industry, but who remains enigmatic and well outside the traditional hierarchies. Many reference his work but almost no one is capable of continuing the framework he established. His opinions are either highly respected or vehemently attacked – both good signs that you are doing something right. He has had an indelible influence on modern motorcycle design.

Bienville Legacy Motorcycle

After 2005 he was serving drinks, waiting tables, and cleaning toilets, his life and promising career swept away by the floodwaters of hurricane Katrina. Not long after his whirlwind rise to prominence with Confederate Motorcycles he was back to tending bar in the French Quarter of New Orleans, his life ravaged by the storm that had forever scarred the city.

Bienville Legacy Motorcycle JT Nesbitt

Nesbitt is a formidable figure in American motorcycling, not simply for his contributions to the industry but also for his philosophies. He has an intense disdain for those who have compromised their principles and isn’t afraid to take them to task. He is opinionated and vociferous, never hesitating to speak out, but always willing to praise what he believes is deserving of admiration.

Nesbitt is complex, contradictory and frighteningly intelligent. Summarizing him with a few words on a page is wholly inadequate – you must sit down with J.T. and discuss life and bikes over the course of several beers to even begin to understand where he comes from and what he believes in.  

While we must not become mired in the glory of past successes, it is impossible to understand Nesbitt’s design philosophy without referencing his work at Confederate. Without the opportunity that was presented to him by Confederate founder Matt Chambers he would have remained unknown, just a man with a degree in Fine Arts serving drinks in New Orleans who was attempting to start his life from scratch.

Bienville Legacy Motorcycle

Chambers gave Nesbitt the outlet for his creativity and their symbiotic partnership was one that is difficult for an outsider to understand. Nesbitt met Chambers while working for Iron Horse, during the magazine’s glory days under David Snow’s editorship. Following Nesbitt’s review of the company’s Hellcat, Chambers offered him a position with Confederate in New Orleans. When Nesbitt’s talents and vision became clear, Chambers offered him a chance to redesign the company’s iconic flagship: the brutally raw G2 Hellcat was the result, which proved to be a well-received warmup act from a man who already had bigger ideas brewing.

Bienville Legacy Motorcycle JT Nesbitt

To Nesbitt the essential problem with modern motorcycle design is that we haven’t progressed much beyond conceiving of a motorcycle as anything more than a bicycle with a motor attached. Virtually every motorcycle, no matter how advanced or technologically dazzling it may be, is still designed and built within this framework. Nesbitt’s solution and design touchstone is what he calls “circles and lines”. It is a sort of blueprint structured around a series of six interlocking circles – the two wheels with the motor set between them, and the proportions of the components that bind them together. The core of this idea is that instead of fitting the motor into the chassis, we must design the chassis around the motor – more importantly, the motor dictates the design. You start with the engine and build the bike around that, rather than trying to figure out how to hang the motor on the proverbial bicycle.

Bienville Legacy Motorcycle

The first machine that applied the circles and lines concept was the Wraith, which began as a styling exercise built around a Harley-Davidson XR750 engine. So strong was the response to the mockup that Nesbitt essentially forced Chambers to hire budding designer Brian Case and allow them to build a running prototype. XP1 was the result of Nesbitt’s vision and featured a monocoque chassis wrapped around a Sportster-patterned S&S Pro Stock motor, with a girder front fork incorporating modern materials. It was circles and lines made real. Nesbitt insisted his machine be run on the Bonneville Salt Flats to prove its mettle, thereby establishing a long-running Confederate tradition of testing their designs at the Flats. Nesbitt’s friend Chris Roberts rode XP1 across the salt at 139 mph before the bike was sold to a collector and work began on a more advanced pre-production prototype. With that, Nesbitt’s talents were established and the world took notice. The Wraith was a design that was so unlike anything seen before that it forever altered motorcycle design and custom culture, and showed the world that Americans could still build a world-class machine - right in the heart of New Orleans.

Bienville Legacy Motorcycle JT Nesbitt

Working for Confederate gave Nesbitt the opportunity to create without dealing with the pragmatic concerns that stymie most designers. In any other company he would have been forced to deal with concerns of mass production, emissions and noise laws, headlight and turn signal placement, and any of the myriad manufacturing and legal nonsense that conspires to dilute the original vision of a designer. Confederate was always the brand of “Rebellion”. It was a place where Chambers allowed creativity and uncompromising values to take priority over practical matters. It was here that Nesbitt could and did flourish.

Hurricane Katrina changed everything. The Confederate factory was destroyed just as production of the Wraith was being finalized. Following the destruction of their New Orleans factory, Chambers chose to move Confederate to Alabama. Nesbitt insisted on staying in his beloved city. It proved to be the end of his tenure with Confederate.

Bienville


Bienville Legacy Motorcycle in Bienville Studios New Orleans


Bienville Studios emerged during the tumultuous period following Katrina. After leaving Confederate Nesbitt began working independently while tending bar at Flanagan’s Pub in the French Quarter. A short-lived partnership with a Chinese firm required the setup of a design studio, which Nesbitt established in a gallery space on Esplanade Avenue. After the deal with the Chinese fell through the studio remained.

Bienville Legacy Motorcycle Sketch

Named after Jean-Baptiste le Moyne de Bienville, the founder of the city of New Orleans and early governor of the Louisiana territory, Bienville Studios was the site of Nesbitt’s renewal following Katrina. It is fitting that it was here that he and a team of friends resurrected a flood-damaged Lincoln Mark VIII, dubbed the Stinkin Linkin, which he then drove 2000 miles with friend Andy Overslaugh to the Bonneville Salt Flats to attempt to break the 200 mph mark. More recently he built the Magnolia Special here, a stunning hand-built automobile powered by a Jaguar XK6 converted to run on natural gas. Both projects were exercises that sunk him deeply into debt. Nesbitt continued to operate as he had while working for Chambers – freely and without compromise, but also without significant income.

Bienville Legacy Motorcycle Headlight

It is a shock to learn that Nesbitt has been so committed to his principles that he often works without salary simply so he could continue to design. He is content to eek out a modest living as long as it enables him to continue his work. Despite all the rock star status and cover spreads his work with Confederate had earned him, it was never about the money. It still isn’t. Nesbitt does not draw a salary for his work on The Legacy Motorcycle Commission.    

Bienville Legacy Motorcycle Front Suspension

Following Katrina Nesbitt took a seven-year hiatus from motorcycle design. But the idea of building a new machine that refined the philosophies he introduced with the Wraith continued to occupy his mind and fill the pages of his sketchbook while he was “crosstraining” with projects in the automotive realm.

Bienville Legacy Motorcycle Rear Suspension

In 2012 Nesbitt was approached by Jim Jacoby, founder of The American Design and Master Craft Initiative, about continuing his work in motorcycle design. Jacoby approached Nesbitt innocently enough, coming to him as a fellow motorcycle enthusiast who was interested in his work. He met Nesbitt in New Orleans, unsure of what to expect. They ended up going out for a beer and discussing motorcycles, design and life. With the ice properly broken, it was then that Jacoby asked Nesbitt “What would you design if you could design anything at all?” Nesbitt showed Jacoby the sketches he had been collecting over the previous seven years. His answer became the genesis of the Legacy Motorcycle Commission:“I would design the bike that answered all the questions the Wraith asked.”

Bienville Legacy Motorcycle Sketch

ADMCi is a non-profit organization based in Chicago, Illinois with a mandate to promote sustainable user-centred design in all its forms, be it art, music, craft, or design, physical or digital. The goals of ADMCi are varied but follows two main lines of thinking: that artisans come first in the creative process, operating independently and in a sustainable manner, and that master-craftsmanship should be preserved and promoted in a digital era when people are becoming increasingly detached from the things they produce.

Bienville Legacy Motorcycle

You may simplify this as the promotion of craftsmanship, but it is much more than that. Jacoby believes that artisans, designers and master-craftspeople are kept to the fringe and exploited by our current efficiency- and profit-driven system. ADMCi wishes to put the artisan back at the centre of the system. The idea is that placing production and profit ahead of design/outcome makes for a broken process, so ADMCi promotes the opposite while offering benefits to the artists themselves.

Bienville Legacy Motorcycle

Jacoby started ADMCi as a philanthropic foundation that operates in two ways – commissions to discover and develop knowledge, and education to transfer and apply that knowledge. The Bienville Legacy project is one such commission, with Nesbitt operating as an artisan in residence. His work is not simply towards a single end product (a motorcycle), it has sustainable value: eight patents have been filed as a result of Nesbitt’s work on the Legacy. Any royalties earned from those patents will be used to sustain the ADMCi.

Bienville Legacy Motorcycle Swingarm and Exhaust

The Legacy Motorcycle Commission is funded and studied by ADMCi with the goal of translating Nesbitt’s knowledge and methodology into a framework that can be shared and applied elsewhere. The irony, of course, is that despite being explicitly not intended for mass production, the Legacy is a design that is well suited for streamlined manufacturing. It uses standardized components that are shared between several elements of the bike. The suspension design is remarkably simple. It only uses two types of bearings. It uses but a few types of fasteners and can be worked on with a literal handful of proprietary tools. It speaks to the pure vision of a man who is able to intelligently design a machine in its totality. It is the product of a single mind, which gives it a simplicity that is often lacking in designs completed by committee or beholden to a profit-driven ecosystem.

The Legacy

Bienville Legacy Motorcycle Leaf Spring Mount

Beyond the social implications of the Legacy project, the machine occupies an important position in American motorcycle design – it picks up a thread that was lost sometime during the Great Depression. Nesbitt points to what he calls the “American super bike”. It is important to note he doesn’t mean the ‘Superbike’ of modern parlance, that amorphous category of 750cc-plus sporting bikes, but a super bike: a superlative machine from a time when American manufacturers were producing some of the finest vehicles in the world. These were multi-cylinder motorcycles that were without peer, designed and built by people who had no concerns for profit margins or market share.

Bienville Legacy Motorcycle Swingarm

Nesbitt references machines produced by Pierce, Henderson, Ace, Cleveland and Indian – advanced, highly refined, fast, and powered by longitudinal four-cylinder engines. Exceptional motorcycles like these were the products of a golden era of American motorcycle design that flourished during the optimistic days of the 1920s. They were machines built by men who were looking forward, not over their shoulders at what came before - an important point that Nesbitt is quick to stress. It is a heritage that was lost after the Great Depression, when dozens of manufacturers collapsed or were absorbed, and design took a decidedly conservative turn that established the path of modern American motorcycles – nostalgic V-twin models produced by men who were too busy looking backwards. Nesbitt calls it “The Great Gap”, the period between the last Indian Four rolling off the line in 1941 and today.

Bienville Legacy Motorcycle Radiator

The Legacy is set to pick up the lineage of the American longitudinal four-cylinder super bike and renew it by producing “what has to be the fastest fucking motorcycle ever built in this country”. While Nesbitt references the past, he doesn’t let nostalgia influence his work. He simply looks forward while respecting what came before.

Bienville Legacy Motorcycle Component Sketches

There is, however, an element of the old world in his design process that bears noting. Nesbitt believes that the aesthetic appeal of vintage machines is a product of their conception – in the mind of a person. A person can conceive of an object in their mind, designing it in three dimensions within their mind’s eye. If each component on the machine is designed this way it lends a human element to the device, as no part is beyond the comprehension of a human mind. Introduce computer modelling and suddenly you have elements that are so complex that they alienate the viewer. To respect this human factor, Nesbitt designed each and every component of the Legacy with pencil on paper. He sketched every nut, bolt, fixture, linkage and accessory. A computer was only introduced after the component was designed, when the sketches were adapted into Solidworks files by volunteers David Czarnecki, Austin Porter and David McMahon. The files were then sent to Scott Tudury at Apex CNC in Morgan City, Louisiana. Scott worked as the design engineer and lead machinist, translating the sketches and files into metal and performing final milling of the components.

Nesbitt shows the Legacy to Miguel Galuzzi at the Motus factory preview in October 2013

Motivation for the Legacy will come courtesy of the new Motus MV4 designed by Brian Case, the same man who helped Nesbitt design the Wraith. It was no accident that the pre-production prototype of the Legacy was previewed at the Motus factory in downtown Birmingham, Alabama in October. In design the Motus V4 is a quintessentially American motor, developed as a two-wheeled equivalent of (half) a small-block Chevrolet V8 complete with pushrod-operated overhead valves. Like the Legacy it references and respects American heritage, but it isn’t a slave to the past. The engine design might seem quaintly antiquated by modern motorcycle standards, but several generations of small-block tuning and know-how have been distilled into a compact package that produces 185hp from 1650cc in its base tune while remaining remarkably simple and stout. And that is before Nesbitt slaps a chain-driven Rotrex centrifugal supercharger onto it. With forced induction power is anticipated to be over 300 hp. Nesbitt will need every ounce of power he can extract from the mill to accomplish another of the project’s goals: of securing three land speed records. Just like the Wraith, the first destination for the completed Legacy will be Bonneville where the machine will prove itself on the Salt Flats.

Bienville Legacy Motorcycle Supercharger

The chassis design picks up some of the principles Nesbitt began to explore with the Wraith. The front uses symmetrical carbon-fibre blades, produced in CNC-milled moulds by BlackStone Tek, in a girder fork arrangement suspended on a rising rate linkage composed of milled alloy and titanium rockers. The rear suspension uses the same blades laid flat and suspended by another rising rate linkage that shares most of its components with the front assembly. Almost all the individual components are interchangeable between the front and rear. As the composite blades preclude the use of pinch bolts, the axles are locked together with titanium conical nuts on each end. Eccentric adjusters on the blade caps allow fine-tuning of the trail on the front and chain tension at the back. The headlight angle, seat height, and rear ride height are also adjustable via the same process: every eccentric is adjustable with a single Allen key. Just loosen one pinch bolt, and then rotate the adjuster via a worm gear. It is simple and clever, and beautifully executed.

Bienville Legacy Motorcycle Eccentric Adjuster

Nesbitt wished to experiment with multiple trail value curves to make the best use of the multi-link suspension arrangement, and in so doing patented a unique method of measuring dynamic trail across suspension travel and generate real-time trail graphs. The resulting trail curve aims for straight-line stability combined with quick steering and neutral feedback while cornering.

Bienville Legacy Motorcycle Front Suspension Linkage

Where the Legacy really breaks new ground is how it suspends both ends: via a single longitudinally mounted composite leaf spring. Nesbitt references the bow, the simplest form of spring that has been used by humanity for thousands of years. By using a composite polymer spring, it is free of the long-term fatigue that would wear out a metal item. It is a technology that is familiar in American motorsports: the Chevrolet Corvette continues to use transverse leaf springs quite effectively, and it is a common suspension system on circle track racers.

Bienville Legacy Motorcycle Leaf Spring

The suspension linkages work in reverse, pulling down on either end of the spring through pullrods. The only points of stress on the chassis are the swingarm pivot and the central mount of the spring, which doubles as the subframe support. This creates a chassis that is under compression. Moving the suspension components inboard achieves two important goals: centralizing the mass, and de-coupling suspension and braking from the steering forces. Damping is provided by a set of mountain bike units, which in testing proved to be more than capable of handing the forces at work in this application. They are in fact virtually impossible to bottom out, with near-infinitely progressive damping that is necessary for landing the massive jumps common in downhill mountain biking.

Bienville Legacy Motorcycle Steering Head

The frame is a chromoly steel trellis design that Nesbitt built himself, with final welding performed by Ace Boudreaux and powdercoating done by Alan Kirkfield, from a single one-inch diameter of tubing bent with a single seven-inch radius. As the spring mount is the only significant source of force in the frame (the swingarm pivot is supported by the transmission case), the frame flows away from the mount organically into the mounts of the longitudinally mounted V4, which is carried as a stressed member.

Bienville Legacy Motorcycle Front Suspension Damper

The only conventional off-the-shelf components used on the Legacy are the batteries, ISR radial-mount brakes, and ISR master cylinders. The BST carbon fibre wheels might appear conventional at first glance but have custom-made hubs that are unique to the Legacy. Everything else is designed by Nesbitt and made solely for this machine.

Bienville Legacy Motorcycle Conical Axle Nut

The complete machine is visceral in appearance – it is a muscular mass centred on the engine with a visual tension that suggests hidden power and agility. It isn’t pretty in the traditional sense, and you would never mistake it for a European or Asian design. It is visually brutal. It looks American, mean and gritty but built to a standard that would shame even the best boutique brands. While this example is mostly complete a few rough edges and missing components expose it as a pre-production machine. The missing details fail to detract from the overall sense of quality and the craftsmanship that has been poured into this bike. Every fastener and fitting is custom made, every component is unique and finely crafted and won’t be found anywhere else. The fenders and taillight surround are made of hand-beaten and rolled aluminium. Elements that won’t even be visible on the completed machine are built to extraordinary standards – just look at the skeletal seat support structure, comprised of blades of milled titanium, which will be hidden under a bespoke leather saddle.

Nesbitt asks: “What is the motorcycle equivalent of a Pagani?”

The Legacy is his answer.

Bienville Legacy Motorcycle Seat Support

Once the prototype is finished it will be run at Bonneville, one of three machines to be built as a result of the Commission. Nesbitt is quick to note that there is no rush on the Legacy. He has no one to answer to but himself, and no one is setting release dates or deadlines. It will be done when it is done.

Once the three machines are completed the project will end. Nesbitt will have accomplished his goal. He isn’t churning out designs for a manufacturer, and has no intention of producing more than three examples. He isn’t working for a paycheque, corrupting his designs to suit the higher ups and bean counters. He is simply building his ultimate motorcycle his way, fulfilling the design that haunted him for much of his career, and once it is done he will move on. He will have pushed the goalpost forward and once again put American motorcycle design back on the world stage. After that, he will keep moving forward and looking to the future.

Bienville Legacy Motorcycle Rear Suspension Linkage

Nesbitt’s work with ADMCi will promote a framework of understanding and education, a process that will benefit future designers, artisans and craftspeople. That will be the Bienville Legacy – a leap forward in design, in American motorcycling, and in establishing a sustainable educational and social framework the puts the creator back at the centre of the process.    

Bienville Legacy Motorcycle Tail


Interesting Links
Bienville Legacy website
Bienville Studios website
"Salt Dreams" documentary, following the story of the Stinkin Linkin
Magnolia Special
Bienville Legacy Commission proposal video
ADMCi website
ADMCi Commissions
Preview of the Legacy during the Barber Vintage Festival
Motus Motorcycles


OddBike USA Tour: Part XII - Reality Looms

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Rural Virginia

Part XII of the OddBike USA Tour Travelogue. Click here for Part IPart IIPart IIIPart IVPart VPart VIPart VIIPart VIIIPart IXPart X, Part XI.


Virginia


I take the opportunity to sleep in today, one of the only instances where I didn't wake up at dawn and hit the road before the morning chill dissipated. Also odd considering the digs at the Super 8 were the least luxurious accommodations I have had so far, camping excepted. Clean though it seemed, I'd be lying if I said I hadn't checked the bed thoroughly for... things.

The clerk asks me if I'm the one with the motorcycle from Quebec. She is incredulous that I have ridden so far, even more so when I tell her that I had been to New Orleans. She is apprehensive about motorcycles, noting that she would be terrified of the heavy truck traffic. Really I would think I'd be intimidated by those lumbering, omnipresent brutes in any vehicle, not motorcycles exclusively. At least on a bike I can get out of my own way, quickly.

Ducati 916 Rural Virginia


It's a warm, sunny morning and I am looking forward to a pleasant day of riding after yesterday's bout with icy, cinema-worthy mountain fog. The landscape is flattening out as I approach the Mason Dixon line, but it retains that lush green beauty I so enjoyed in the heart of the Appalachians. On this sunny day with a clear blue sky overhead the colours of the scene are impossibly vibrant. It is distinct from the bright fall palette I had seen in New England, and far more interesting than the dull dead-leaf tones I left behind in Montreal. Once again the specter of returning to my dreary existence looms large, and I start to feel melancholic as the trip is winding down. This evening I will be in Pennsylvania, tomorrow I'll stop in New York, and then it's back to the daily grind in Montreal.


Rural Virginia

I snap out of my moment of Interstate introspection when I notice that my left hand is wet. I do a double take. I've been so accustomed to wet weather riding that I barely take notice of the soaked controls, until I realize that I'm riding along a dry highway on a bright sunny day. That's when I notice that my visor is getting spritzed with droplets. 

No. Not this. Not here. Not now.

Flashback to New Orleans on Tuesday morning. I'm taking the bike apart to change the coolant temperature sensor, and I need to top off the fluid level. JT notes the odd placement of the coolant filler cap in the steering head - you need to unbolt the fuel tank and slide it backwards to access the fill cap. I mention the coolant expansion tank failure problem that is a well known Ducati 916 issue, and how I've been lucky to not have it rupture in seven years of ownership. The tank is a moulded plastic item that is nestled in the headstock of the frame. It is pressurized and connected directly to the radiator, serving as a coolant reservoir, fill bottle, and overflow point.  Nobody is really sure why they burst so readily. Some unlucky owners will go through tanks every 1000 miles. It could be poorly manufactured castings. It might be the odd shape. It may be too rigidly mounted in a portion of the frame prone to flexing. Maybe it's just a really bad idea to use plastic for a reservoir that is filled with hot liquid under several pounds of pressure. Whatever the reason, it's a problem that is so ubiquitous that some people fabricate alloy tanks, or change out the radiator for a later item with an integrated fill cap to do away with the damned tank altogether.  

Ducati 916 coolant tank leak

Here on the Interstate, somewhere in rural Virginia, my coolant tank has just just split open and is spraying hot premix everywhere. This is something every 916 owner has either dealt with or will deal with. Replacement tanks are cheap but that's not much consolation when I'm 1000 miles from home. This could end my trip right here if I don't find a way to patch the leak, now.

I miss the first exit. I'm starting to get nervous now. I'm keeping a close eye on my temperature gauge. I take the following exit and pull into a service station. I have it in my mind that I'll hunt down some JB Weld to try and patch up the tank enough to get home. Now that I've stopped I can see the extent of the leak - the whole front of the bike is spattered with slippery coolant. I can't see any obvious cracks or loose fittings, which means I'll have to pull apart the bike and take off the airbox to access the tank. Staring at the coolant-soaked cockpit I'm wavering between a sense of dread and distant optimism. I am terrified that this stupid fault will strand me, but I'm sure I can deal with it if the crack is small and I can get my hands on a decent two-part epoxy.

Rural Virginia





I start walking towards the gas station when I spot an older Yamaha FZR600, resplendent in the classic blue and white paint scheme, a colour palette that has aged better than the faded neon pink that you often see on them. The owner is there, having a snack. He says hello and ask me how it's going. In one of the few times I didn't lie and use the usual "fine thanks and how are you" robotic response, I tell him things could definitely be better and that my coolant tank just blew up. He stops me - he works at an auto repair shop just up the road. He offers to help me fix the bike if I can get it over there, about a mile down the road. I'm taken aback. I wasn't expecting this sort of offer out of the blue from a stranger I just encountered in an off-ramp parking lot.


Rural Virginia

He gives me directions and I agree to meet him there. I head into the station to make a pit stop and check if they have any epoxy. I scan the racks of generic auto maintenance items and snake oils but nothing useful is present. I ask the cashier and she doesn't seem to know what I'm talking about. So fixing it here in this parking lot is not going to happen. I set out to locate the repair shop.


Baker's Garage Lacey Springs, Virginia

I follow a quiet road through rolling countryside into a tiny community called Lacey Springs. It is just as the fellow had described, and sure enough there is a small two-bay garage on the main road: Baker's Garage. It's a classic independent shop: a one-story building surrounded by a variety of imports and domestics, vintage and late model, in various states of disrepair. There is a Jaguar XJ sedan parked near the door, because of course there is - I think they are standard issue for these shops, as I can't recall seeing a garage like this that didn't have an immobile Series 1 through 3 out front sitting in a pool of its own fluids and slowly sinking into the ground. 

Broken down Jaaaaaag XJ6

The man I met at the gas station welcomes me in and introduces me to the owner. If I remember correctly the owner's name was Harlan, and Earl was the fellow with the FZR. The two of them work on a variety of vehicles, whatever comes through the door. They are trained by hands-on experience and applied knowledge. These are the best kinds of mechanics - a contrast to the by-the-book one-make dealer lackeys who only know how to fault-find according to a service manual flow chart or OBD port. These are the sorts of old-fashioned mechanics who are fast disappearing in this era of computer diagnostics and factory-trained "technicians" operating in glassy, sterile dealerships. These are people who can fix things, not just bolt on replacement bits taken from the parts department.

Mullet Mobile (TM)

They are friendly, simple folks - the best kind of small-town people. I haven't even gotten the bike apart before they are offering me lunch and soda. I thank them for their generosity but right now I want to zero in on the task at hand. I'm too nervous to eat. I want to get this sorted before I do anything else. I get the bike torn down and extract the reservoir, which we pressurize with a hand pump. Lo and behold, we find the culprit - a hairline crack on the backside of the tank, practically invisible but obvious once there is pressure behind it.

Ducati 916 in pieces

We patch the crack with a heavy duty two-part epoxy. I take a break for lunch while it cures. I sit outside and share a palette with an oil-stained V6, a well-worn organ pulled from a sick patient. A few locals come and go, characters who are apparently well acquainted with the boys at Baker's. Not a surprise, given their small-town location and their friendly demeanours. I'm reminded of what the man from Floyd had said when I met him at the gas station on the border of Virginia and North Carolina: Lacey Springs is "a one stoplight town".

Lacey Springs, Virginia

Once the epoxy is set we pressurize the tank again. It appears to be sealed. I'm unsure of how well this fix will hold, but I'm relieved that for the moment it is no longer pissing hot coolant into my face. I pull some cash out of my pocket. Harlan waves his hand and politely refuses, wishing me well on my journey home. I'm in shock. These complete strangers have treated me like an old friend, welcoming me in, offering me food, and helping me get back onto the road in my moment of crisis then refusing to take compensation for their time. This is the sort of genuine generosity I have lost sight of after working in an arrogant industry in a xenophobic province.

Patched Ducati coolant tank

Earl suggests there may have been some divine intervention that brought me here. Not being a religious man I'm not sure how to respond. I didn't mention that today was the only day I hit the road late, and I missed an exit before pulling off at the station where I encountered him, and I very nearly didn't tell him that I was having a problem. I'd be more inclined to thank fate than some deity, but I can't deny that today's adventure was a unique moment of circumstances coming together in my favour.

Lacey Springs, Virginia

This is the positive side of using a cantankerous old Italian machine as a touring mount - there is a certain masochistic tendency in what I do, but I wouldn't have it any other way. You won't have these sorts of interesting encounters or meet these kinds of genuine people if you are riding a dead-nuts reliable Honda that never breaks. It would also make for a rather boring travelogue: "Today I rode 400 miles between point A and point B without incident. I saw an armadillo." That being said I would still like to get a dead-nuts reliable Honda (or equivalent) to supplement my collection so that when the 916 is off the road for repairs I have a backup machine. Riding an unreliable motorcycle with the specter of imminent mechanical failure following you around like a dark cloud can be entertaining. Having that unreliable motorcycle in pieces in your garage during prime riding season is not.

Lacey Springs, Virginia

I thank the guys profusely for their help and hit the road again. Despite my repair delay and my late departure in the morning I'm still able to reach Carlisle, Pennsylvania before sundown. I grab a room and return to the same greasy pizzeria I had visited on my way down to satisfy my craving for something devastatingly unhealthy and obscenely cheap, which is fulfilled by a stuffed pizza served with tangy dipping sauce. I nibble at the ridiculous slice of cholesterol made metal while I compile the day's notes.

Pennsylvania

Saturday morning is sunny and cold, a crisp autumn day that is markedly more frigid than it had been in Virginia. I install the thermal liners in my pants and jacket. Despite my best attempts to insulate there is no escaping from those icy fingers sliding through the crevices of my gear and numbing my hands to the point of uselessness. I have two sets of gloves with me - a thin pair of mesh summer items, and some heavy BMW touring mitts. I despise the touring gloves because they aren't waterproof, the cold still slips past their thick thermal linings, and they are so bulky that I can't properly work the controls while wearing them. Their only redeeming feature is that they have a squeegy on the left index finger to clean your visor, which seems silly at first but soon proves its worth the first time you wear them in the rain - it works, dammit. I toss the BMW gloves into my bag in favour of the summer gloves. I'll tough out the cold and retain control rather than suffer those useless Motorrad mittens. Before you declare that I should install heated grips or gear, be aware that the 916 has a terrible single-phase alternator with substandard wiring. It can't even run both headlamps together without overwhelming the charging system, let alone supply enough juice for a heating system.    

Once again the bike is virtually impossible to start. Fuck. The coolant switch wasn't the problem. In fact now the fuel pump isn't priming at all, which is a Very Bad Sign. I spend several minute fiddling with the bike in the Super 8 parking lot, practicing my usual routine of begging, pleading and prodding. I can coax a few lazy pops out of the engine but it won't catch. The fuel pump refuses to kick in. I play with the wiring and swap relays until the moons align and the pump finally primes. The bike fires up readily, as if there was no issue at all. Clearly something is amiss, but I'm not sure what. These sorts of intermittent electrical problems are a part of my daily routine with an old Italian machine. I just hope it gets me back to Montreal, at which point I will tear it apart to sort out all the overdue maintenance and exorcise the gremlins I've picked up along the way. In the meantime I must resort to quiet prayers to the Gods of Speed. I may not be religious but I'm not above begging one deity or another to get me home.

I ride through Pennsylvania, changing my route and bypassing the atrocious roads I suffered on my way down. Unfortunately this way isn't much better and I confirm my suspicion that Pennsylvania has the worst roads of any of the states I passed through. They are still considerably better than what we endure in Quebec, but that really is not saying much.

The landscape is becoming barren and dead as I head further north. The leaves have fallen and the trees are skeletal, the landscape a sea of dull brown. This is the most depressing time of year, the interminable period between the end of fall's splendour and the start of winter's snow. It is cold, grey, and miserable. Each year I can't wait until the first snowfall erases the visual blight of the late fall from the scene. It's particularly depressing when you encounter it a day after you were riding through a vibrant, warm southern countryside.

Then I enter New Jersey.

New Jersey

The phenomenon of NJ being the butt of many jokes is a foreign concept (no pun intended) to those of us who aren't American. We all have our punchline regions, those locales within our borders that become the go-to victims of our derision. In Canada it's Newfoundland. We don't have any particular disrespect for Newfoundland, it has just become a running gag that has become embraced by the nation, and by Newfoundlanders themselves. I doubt that many Americans would get a Newfie joke, but somehow the rest of the world is supposed to get Jersey jabs.

Now that I've been there, I understand. New Jersey is a dismal, wretched expanse of dull scenery, concrete, and shitty roads populated by the most inconsiderate and dangerous drivers I've ever encountered outside of Montreal. Nobody uses turn signals, nobody lane checks before merging, everyone threads between lanes, and everyone is speeding to an insane degree. I have to drive 85 in a 55 to keep up with the flow of traffic, and I'm still getting passed. The most memorable things I recall from my time there were: the undulating pavement that was hammering the gas tank into my crotch, the surly asshole working the gas pump at a Shell station, and the dumptruck tire that blew up in front of me on the freeway.

Still life with pancakes and fake butter

I stop for a late breakfast at a Cracker Barrel. Once again I endure the fauxstalgic decor and chipper staff so I can funnel some carbs into my body. I order a pancake breakfast with eggs and bacon and a bottomless cup of black coffee, just what I need to warm up after a cold morning of riding. The food is passable, but I can't help but feel cheated when I'm presented with a bottle of "100% Pure Natural Syrup". Right below the logo the truth is revealed: "55% Pure Maple Syrup - 45% Cane Syrup". The Canadian in me says: fuck right off and don't insult my intelligence. I know watered down maple syrup when I taste it, and your "100% Pure Natural" tagline isn't fooling anyone. Once again I picture a group of suits in a boardroom somewhere conspiring to save a few pennies while retaining some semblance of a quote-unquote "wholesome" image. And that isn't mentioning the chalk-coloured dollop of lies masquerading as butter that they had the nerve to dump on top of the pancakes.

Fuck off, Cracker Barrel

I drop cash on the table and start packing up when my waiter comes up and tells me he can't accept the money. I need to go to the cash out front. Once again the attempt at a traditional atmosphere is shattered by petty bureaucratic bullshit. The kid looks slightly scared - as if some supervisor is eyeing the scene from a back room, maneuvering the camera in for a closer look at his sweaty brow, just itching for a excuse to administer a flogging. Annoyed and slightly put off I scoop up the money and head to the cash, handing the tip to the cashier and telling her quite clearly that this is for Jimmy over there. I leave satisfied that my initial impression of this place being a contrived corporate sham was correct.

Before I leave the parking lot I witness two separate cases of people driving on the wrong side of the road. The drivers here truly live up to their reputation.

New York 

I continue on to New York. I'm staying at Alan's property again and I hope that this time around I will have a chance to sit down and socialize with the man who has been generous enough to welcome a stranger like me into his home.

As I ride along the dull stretches of freeway I once again begin turning over my thoughts and formulating ideas. I'm struck by a strong sense of ennui, an existential crisis spurred on by this trip. Before this adventure I was bored and looking for a diversion from my routine. Now, nearing the end, I am looking for an escape. I can't bear to continue going through the motions, stuck in a dead end position doing the same dull routine day in and day out. This trip was the wake up call I needed to make me realize that there is a world open to me, but only if I am willing to reach out and seize the opportunities.

JT's question - Why don't you do something about it? - has been ricocheting around in my mind since I left New Orleans. Why don't I? What's stopping me? I feel like I've gotten lazy and shiftless these last few years. I've lost my drive.

Ducati 916 Upstate New York

I graduated from McGill in November 2008 and entered the job market at the worst possible time. The economic crisis was in full swing and every nitwit with a BA from here to Vancouver was desperately trying to get work. I could not get a job serving coffee in downtown Montreal. Nobody was hiring. Those who were could cherry pick from a list of overqualified candidates who were willing to work for peanuts - anything just to make ends meet in the midst of that capitalist catastrophe that was 2008-2009. Meanwhile the media was parroting the statements of Canada being better off than anyone else, how we would not be affected by the US, how our economy was insulated from the problems that were collapsing markets all around us. It was a colossal crock of bullshit. While the housing market wasn't taking a dive like it was in the US of A, our economy was tanking just like everyone else's. If you were on the ground without a job during that period, rather than listening to out-of-touch economists shouting down at the riff raff from high up in their ivory towers, you knew this quite well.

I stayed in Montreal after I graduated, borrowing money to survive. I didn't qualify for unemployment insurance because I hadn't worked sufficient hours the previous year - I was a full-time student and had only worked part time. I starved and stressed, and applied at every coffee shop or shitty sales gig I could find. Nobody was interested in yet another newly disillusioned twenty-something with a bachelor's degree. After six months of misery, mounting debt, and increasing depression, I finally gave up and moved back to New Brunswick to live with my parents. I felt like I had failed. I promised myself I would return to Montreal once I was back on my feet.

My parents and I spent an obscene amount of money to get me a degree that was turning out to be a worthless piece of paper. I was just one of millions of people who were experiencing the same sort of realization: we had a sense of being cheated out of our hard work (and money) followed by an intense dread of what the real world had in store for us. We were promised the world, but in reality someone needs to flip burgers. This is the curse of my generation.

That was when I returned to retail and began selling jewellery and watches. It was a way to make ends meet, to pay my bills and get out of my parent's house. Once I was back on my feet and had paid down my debts to a reasonable degree, I returned to Montreal. Three years later here I am, still doing the same routine, just making ends meet and remaining unfulfilled. I've allowed my life to stagnate. I slog through my hours and go home at night having accomplished precisely the same thing I had on the previous day - nothing.

Some people can maintain parallel lives, working a dull 9 to 5 while fulfilling themselves in their spare time. But working in a luxury business is bad for the soul. Arrogant clients treat you like a child. Your moral compass degrades over time as you chase the almighty dollar - after a while you don't care who is buying, as long as the money is good. I'm ashamed to say I've dealt with some seriously bad dudes, the people you read about in national newspapers. Eventually you will lose sight of humanity. Everyone who walks in the door is defined solely by the contents of their wallet and the watch on their wrist. I'm not that kind of superficial person, but working in this business slowly transforms you into a bitter, snobby jerk whether you like it or not.

In the end "luxury" is just a meaningless construct, a product of marketing that presents a contrived facade to hide the realities of mass production lurking below. A company touting how luxurious its products are is like a person who goes around declaring how much smarter they are than everyone else - they are arrogant and false. In any case worshiping the trappings of wealth is a worthless exercise. It isn't important, it isn't genuine, and it isn't human.  

Enough complaining. It's time to do something. What exactly? I'm not sure. I know that sitting around feeling sorry for myself and bitching about how unfulfilling my job is won't change anything. I may be an underemployed twenty-something but I'm not a self-entitled brat - I'm well aware that I need to work hard if I want to succeed, and that I am owed nothing by nobody. I have to make my own opportunities. With that resolve in my mind I need to reset my life and take a leap into the unknown, otherwise I'm just going to continue sinking into complacency until I'm anchored to the spot by a mortgage, a nagging wife, and 2.5 kids. I'm not sure how I will go about it, but two things are certain: I want to return to the motorcycle industry, and I want out of Quebec.

Corona on the lake

I arrive at Alan's property in the evening just as he is finishing up a session on the track in his latest toy, a Lotus 2-Eleven he just had rebuilt. I have the chance to meet his family and a few of his friends and enjoy some great home-cooked ribs while Alan reviews details from taped ALMS races. Again he is all over the place, doing five things at once while entertaining us and studying the strategies of the racers in the recordings. But this time I feel more at ease, a bit more welcome than my first visit. I'm starting to understand how things work around here. Alan is a blinding flurry of of energy and non-stop activity - you are welcome to participate but aren't expected to keep up.

At some point late in the evening Alan declares we are going for a drive. The four of us head outside and hop into one of his numerous Polaris ATVs. The two other guys are frantically adjusting their seat belts before Alan has a chance to drive off, apparently aware of what is about to happen. I hook up my belt and we head out on a flat-out blast through the wooded trails surrounding property. Gravel is flinging up into our faces as we barrel through narrow trails that would be nerve-wracking on a dirtbike, let alone a double-width four wheeler loaded with one deranged driver and three terrified passengers. I resign myself to my fate as the trees whistle by, as I figure this isn't the first time he's done this and he probably knows these trails quite well. At least I hope he does. In any case this roll cage looks pretty sturdy.

He drives up the top of the ridge overlooking the property and stops to take in the view. One of the guys pipes up "Alan, I remember the first time you took me up here and you went flying down the hill with the lights off."

"What, like this?"

The sound of three grown men screaming echoes across the countryside.

We return to the house, hair filled with gravel and our adrenaline primed. After our high speed tour of the property it's time to head to bed. Tonight is my last night in the USA and it's been a memorable one. Tomorrow I return to reality in Montreal.

Ducati 916 Upstate New York

OddBike USA Tour: Part XIII - Home

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Morning in Upstate New York

Part XII of the OddBike USA Tour Travelogue. Click here for Part IPart IIPart IIIPart IVPart VPart VIPart VIIPart VIIIPart IXPart XPart XI, Part XII.

I wake early on Sunday. It is a sunny, cool, crisp morning, the sort of perfect fall day that compliments the colour scheme of the landscape. The air smells fresh and clean. The scene is, thankfully, still vibrant here in upstate New York, a contrast to the dead hues and barren trees I had encountered in Pennsylvania and New Jersey the previous day.

While everyone else sleeps in I take the opportunity to once again walk the property and enjoy the sunrise. I'm treated to a spectacular sight as the sun's rays warm the surface of the lake and produces a thin layer of mist across the glassy-smooth water. As soon as it appears it is gone - a fleeting moment of beauty that disappears within the span of a few minutes. I don't envy the guests who are sleeping in late.

Sunrise

I hear a familiar sound overhead and note a group of Canada Geese flying south. How poetic, considering I'm reluctantly taking the opposite trajectory. They seem almost majestic in this setting, their obnoxious honks taking on a gentler quality when heard from several hundred feet below. Having had some up close and personal encounters with them I'll note that despite their name and symbolism they are just vicious poultry that will sooner bite your fingers off than do anything to instill national pride.

Mist on the Lake

I'm reluctant to leave early before anyone has woken up. I'm too polite to take off without saying goodbye, and I hate to rouse everyone with the thundering racket of an old Ducati. I'm not in a hurry in any case. I mill around the property and take photos for a while until one of the guys wakes up. I relay my thanks to Alan through him and load up the bike for a final time, satisfied that I am leaving without disappearing abruptly like an ungrateful transient.

Dawn over the Lake

I am fortunate that today the bike starts without too much protest. The fuel pump problem from the previous morning isn't manifesting itself and the cold startup routine is only a slight pain in the ass. It's clear that something is acting up intermittently, which suggests electrical problem, which is pretty much every single problem I have ever had to deal with on this bike (exploding coolant tanks aside). I say a silent prayer to my personal non-denominational deity, the God of Speed and Recalcitrant Italian Vehicles. It's just one more leg to home and then I can park it for the winter. As long as it gets me back to Montreal I will be happy, and then I will reward it for its faithful service by lavishing it with all the maintenance I'd been neglecting up to now.

GODDAMN IT'S SO BEAUTIFUL

And neglect it I have. I didn't mention this at the outset, being a good Ducati owner who minds his service intervals, but I was sucked into the whole endeavour so quickly that I postponed a critical valve adjustment. Funny how I would feel guilty sharing that detail, as if it would reveal some shameful personal weakness. My excuse is that I figured it would be better to take the risk of running loose clearances rather than encountering a problem during a rushed service right before I left. It almost never fails that if you undertake any sort of "routine" service during prime riding season, or right before a major trip, you will end up sidelined by some stupid issue you could not possible have foreseen and your bike will remain disassembled in the corner of the garage when you could and should be out riding.

Morning in Upstate New York

I dread returning home. My malaise is mounting at this point. Aside from my general sense of ennui my boss saw fit to throw a dozen projects at me before I left on this trip, so I have a stack of unpleasant busy work awaiting me the moment I arrive back at work. I am not looking forward to this. To any bosses in the audience, here's a tip - don't dump a bunch of new tasks upon an employee right before they go on vacation. The same applies to university professors who think they are clever by assigning work during Spring Break.

Autumn tree Upstate New York

I hesitate to even call Montreal "home". It's not a place that I have ever truly felt comfortable in. I like the city, and I enjoyed living there in the moments when I could ignore the provincial politics and draconian bureaucracy. But I am not French, and I am not a Quebecker. I grew up in New Brunswick. I am and will forever be an outsider in this culture. I don't like living in a place where I am explicitly singled out as a colon ("colonist")nevermind the headaches of being a motorcycle rider in Quebec, a situation which I have bitched about ad nauseum in my editorials here on OddBike.

Beautiful Sunrise

I pull off for gas at Shroon Lake, which turns out to be a pleasant little tourist trap on the shores of a beautiful mountain lake. The main street of the town feels a bit put on but it's still a nice place to pause and take a few photos. This will be my last stop before the border, my last moment to reflect in the United States before returning... erm, "home".

Shroon Lake New York

The border crossing is jammed with traffic. It's not a significant amount of cars, maybe 10 per lane, but processing is so slow that everyone is parked with their engines off, waiting around 5-10 minutes between each person. It's a marked contrast to the painless and rapid crossing I had from Canada into the US, which is a bit ironic considering how much border security and anti-terrorist operations have been touted in our "post 9/11 world". I'm having far more trouble returning to Canada than I had getting into the USA.

Shroon Lake New York

After an interminable period it is finally my turn at the wicket. The agent starts with the usual annoying questions. Then he starts going in-depth. How much did I spend during this trip? Where did I stay? What sort of accommodations did I use? He peers at my passport.

"This photo doesn't look like you."

What, in the name of all that is holy, are you supposed to say to a border agent when he suggests you are using forged papers? "Oh, dangit, you got me. I'm here to assassinate Steven Harper and steal your maple syrup!"  

Shroon Lake New York

I think I had the correct reaction that he was looking for: a moment of stunned silence, followed by a narrowing of my gaze and the words "...but that is me, I don't know what to tell you". He doesn't press the matter further. After a few more annoying inquiries he waves me through. Welcome back to Canada.

Shroon Lake New York

And Bienvenue au Quebec. Holy sweet mother of mercy I forgot how catastrophically awful the roads are in this province. Within a few miles of the border I'm back to dodging potholes and fissures, getting my spine hammered into all sorts of unusual shapes by the lumpy road surface. Even the worst roads in Pennsylvania were still more bearable than this. Every frost heave is sending a massive, tooth-shattering jolt through the bike into my backside. The suspension is bottoming out going in a straight line down the highway. Between my screams of agony and vicious curses I have the thought that I cannot believe I got used to these atrocious road conditions in the course of daily riding. It's no wonder the damping has blown out on both ends of the bike during my ownership. My front forks were so fucked after 30,000 miles that I gave them away for parts and then rebuilt a set from Gotham Cycles that had less mileage on them.

Shroon Lake New York

I enter Montreal. The roads, against all odds, become even worse. Now I return to my familiar routine of driving aggressively defensive (defensively aggressive?) to stay alive in the manic cut and thrust traffic of this city. Aside from the rough roads and homicidal/distracted drivers you have to contend with some of the most terribly organized road networks in North America (which are then peppered with construction projects in perpetuity). There are abrupt 100 foot merges onto major freeways that have no shoulder and no margin for error. The locals learn to anticipate them - we either floor it to cut off traffic, or slow our approach enough to dart in between cars. Some will use the hail-Mary berserker approach and simply drive straight into the flow of traffic, expecting that everyone will get out of their way. It's no wonder that multiple times every single day traffic will get blocked by accidents. This place does not suffer fools, or absent-minded motorcycle riders at the end of a long journey.

Shroon Lake New York

I met Dennis Matson in Montreal at the apex of his journey across the USA and Canada. Dennis, I will note, lives in California and has commuted in downtown Los Angeles. He had ridden through practically every major city between SoCal and Toronto, then everything along the Eastern seaboard on the second half of his Coast to Coast by Panigale journey. I rode with him through downtown Montreal and onto the south shore to have dinner with another local Duc owner. Dennis noted afterwards:

"Again--no lane-splitting, lots of traffic and hell--you can't even make a right on a red here. Most streets are either one-way or they're two lanes in each direction and there's always a truck or a car double parked. Add to that the most slippery roads I've been on (even in the dry) and no shortage of drivers with more aggression than skill and, well--Montreal ranks as the most dangerous motorbike city I've been in." 

I'd be inclined to agree. In fact I'd say he is understating things considerably.  

I survive my re-introduction to Montreal's murderous denizens and arrive at my apartment in the afternoon. My odometer reads a little over 37,000 miles - that's 59,500 kms for those of you who are metrically inclined. I have ridden 4050 miles (6500 kms). Over the course of the trip I've replaced one melted fuse, two spark plugs, a coolant temperature sensor, and my coolant expansion tank is cracked but held together by two-part epoxy and good intentions. I dropped the bike once in a motel parking lot in Tennessee. I've burned about a quart of oil. The saddlebags have drooped and deformed around the tail of the bike, looking even more awkward and out of place than when I began the trip. The bike is running like shit and needs immediate attention, but it has gotten me home.

Shroon Lake New York

I grab some food and decompress for a few hours. In the evening I head back down to the parking garage and give the 916 a thorough cleaning to remove 12 state's worth of bugs, chain lube and road grime. I'm listening to M83's Hurry Up, We're Dreaming on my iPod as I toil away in the depths of my building's parking garage.


I finish cleaning the bike and take a step back to admire my handiwork. The track "Soon My Friend" starts playing. I experience one of those perfect moments, those tiny little cinema-quality instances of lucidity where you stop in your tracks and take in the unreal quality of the scene. It's beautifully melodramatic. I'm taking in the details of the 916 as if it was the first day I took it home. That sensation of awe I am experiencing right now is the same I felt more than seven years ago when I dismounted the machine and stood back, looking over my new acquisition with pride and reverence. It's a sensation that I relive every time I pause to look over the bike. I can still scarcely believe it is mine, that I own something so stunning and so timeless. It's a tired cliché to say I could sit and stare at it for hours, but it's the truth. It has an aloof and graceful appearance. It sits tense with potential in front of me. It must be ridden. In that moment I forgive all the vices, all the flaws, all the trouble it gave me on this trip. I pat the gas tank and mutter a thanks for having gotten me safely through this adventure. I know that I will be riding it many more miles for many more years.

I fucking love this bike.    

Epilogue

Shortly after I arrived home I made good on my promise to myself to escape from my dreary routine and make a leap into the unknown. My best friend moved to Calgary a few months ago and had great luck finding a good career there. Upon reflection I realized that out of all the Canadian provinces, Calgary was the most appealing to me. From a pragmatic point of view I'd make way more money and pay way less in taxes, and I would not have to deal with any more five-digit bills for registration or insurance. Plus the Rockies are right next door, which means great riding during the summer and great skiing during the winter.

Shroon Lake New York

So for a laugh I posted my resume on Kijiji in Calgary just to see what would happen, with motorcycles singled out as my main skill.

Within a week I had three tentative offers and several more calls from recruiting agencies. Of all the calls I got the most interesting was a post at a vintage motorcycle specialist in downtown Calgary. At first they were looking for a mechanic with experience with British machines, but more recently the owner suggested I could work on building his online business. At this point it is a "show up and we will see" kind of offer. The mechanic's gig appealed to me, though it would take some time to get back into the groove and re-learn the trade. I'm less inclined to sit in front of a computer all day (Again. Still.) but if he would be willing to offer me a balance between the two I'd be quite happy.

That's just one of the possibilities. I have a few other places interested in seeing me once I arrive in Calgary. The consensus I've heard is that Alberta has a booming motorcycle industry, with many oil-rich workers getting into bikes in the last five years - and spending a lot of money fixing and modifying those bikes. It turns out that I posted my resume in the right place at just the right time, when demand for motorcycle experts was skyrocketing in Alberta.

Shroon Lake New York

I gave notice at work and started preparing for the journey. I bought a car and a trailer and sublet my apartment. I decided this will be a total life reset. I gave away most of my furniture and anything I can't bring with me in the car will be put into storage. I will drive across Canada, taking only what I can carry in the car, with the Ducati in tow. On the first week of January my life begins again and I take that leap into the unknown that I was desiring so intensely after the end of the OddBike USA Tour.

As for the bike: shortly after I got home I tore down the engine and did a valve inspection. 10 000 miles since the last adjustment and they were slightly loose on both the openers and closers on 6 of the 8 valves, but still within safe tolerances according to Ducati's specs. I use tighter clearances than the factory recommends so I will have to get my hands on a shim kit and adjust them before next spring, but I was within safe specs for the duration of the trip despite going way past the service interval. I also did not have a single flaking rocker arm - this would be the first time I've ever adjusted the valves and not had to deal with at least one fucky rocker, so I was quite happy despite having the spectre of a full valve adjustment ahead of me.

As for the intermittent fuel pump and cold starting problems, I did some troubleshooting and discovered that the current to the fuel pump was intermittent on the wiring harness side of the fuel tank connector. This suggests one of three possibilities: wonky relay or fuse, poor electrical connection somewhere in the wiring harness, or a failing ECU. When the first two diagnoses turned up nothing, it became clear that the ECU was the likely culprit. I borrowed a known good computer off a local Ducati enthusiast who uses a 996 as his track weapon. He turned out to the only person willing to lend out his ECU - thanks goes out to him for that.

Shroon Lake New York

Sure enough swapping the ECUs cured the intermittent fuel pump issue. I had a moment of realization - it was a small miracle that I made it home without getting stranded somewhere in the middle of the US with a dead bike. The computer was functioning enough to run the engine most of the time, but was causing all those temperamental cold starts, all that rough running, and more than likely caused that breakdown at the Barber Vintage Fest. Satisfied that I discovered the source of my problems, I set about sourcing a replacement computer.  

There was one thing I need to do before I go - I had to take the bike to Guy Martin one last time before I moved to Alberta. I wanted him to give the bike a once over and make sure everything was in adjustment. While I'm pretty handy with my 916, Guy is one of the top Ducati guys in North America and always manages to massage those last little bugs out that I have trouble with. He has the eyes and ears that can only be developed through decades of experience. He's seen every possible problem a hundred times over. Whenever I have an issue I am unable to sort out, or a particularly elusive gremlin that I can't locate, Guy is my go-to resource. He can usually find the problem within five or ten minutes of laying his hands on the machine. Plus he lives about 20 miles from me, close enough to limp over to with a sick Duc.  

I didn't yet have my trailer and the weather was fast getting worse. I called Guy and asked if he would be around in the coming days. We made a plan to meet in the evening after I finished work, provided I could get the bike started. I still hadn't received my replacement ECU so getting the bike running was a crap shoot. But it was coming down to the wire - we were having a week where the temperature was staying barely above freezing, and snow was expected within a few days. It's now or never.

I managed to coax the bike to life and get it thoroughly warmed up in the parking garage before I set out. It was a wet evening, the city streets slicked with cold drizzle and the temperature around 4 or 5 degrees celsius. Drivers were clearly not expecting to encounter a motorcycle at this time of year, and I narrow avoided getting sideswiped by an absent minded minivan driver. Once I got onto the freeway conditions took a turn for the worse. The rain started coming down hard and my visor quickly fogged up. I flipped it open and endured the cold conditions to maintain my vision. What started out as a shower soon turned into a downpour of freezing rain, with icy droplets stinging my face.

Morning moon

I endured the miserable weather and arrived at Guy's house. Just as I pulled into the driveway he opened the garage door, a look of curious bemusement on his face. 

"You're crazy."

"Yeah. But you don't know what I did with it last month. I rode it to New Orleans and back."

He intensified his glare and smiled, shaking his head slightly. "You're crazy."

"That's what I like to hear."

We confirmed that the ECU was indeed toasted and ran some tests with a spare computer he had on hand, along with a couple of different EPROMs. He was able to get it running smoothly and responding crisply once again, surprisingly by using a 748 fuel map designed by Doug Lofgren. While the 748 mixture was too lean for a 916 at anything other than light throttle, the throttle response, idle and free-revving were remarkably improved. It almost felt like some flywheel weight has been removed from the engine, without any of the drawbacks that usually incurs. I later discovered that the 748 has a totally different ignition map. I'm currently experimenting with open-source software and building a 916 fuel map that uses a 748 ignition table, just to see what happens when you combine the two. My idea converged with the experiments of another amateur tuner who is working on developing the "ultimate" Weber-Marelli 1.6M setup so I have gotten a preliminary map from him and will build my own version to test. Guy seems to think I might be onto something, as he saw the improvement first hand - though most tuners I proposed the idea to simply scoffed and informed me that there must be something wrong with my bike. In any case it's a fun diversion to play with during the winter months, even if it goes nowhere.

Guy lent me his ECU and EPROM to get me home safely and refused to charge me for his labour. He wished me well on my move to Alberta and gave me a few contacts to get in touch with when I arrive there. If there is one thing I'll miss about Montreal, it'll be Guy's expertise and generosity. He's helped me out of a few binds over the years.

Autumn in New York

Conclusion

There was a faint hope in the back of my mind throughout the trip that this adventure might bring about some sort of leap forward for OddBike. While I'd long ago given up on any commercial aspirations for the site (and I like the idea of keeping my writing free, honest, and "uncorrupted" by sponsors), I still hold some optimism that there will be a moment or encounter where my work will suddenly take off. This trip was a significant milestone for OddBike, and a fantastic journey for me personally, but I don't know if it was that breakthrough I was hoping for. Maybe it was and I just don't know it yet.

Upon returning to Montreal I realized that was the wrong mindset to have. I have had an incredible tour of the United States and met a number of amazing people along the way. It's hard to summarize the impact this trip has had on me. I will simply say it has been a life-defining experience, something I will never forget and which will have a huge impact on my future and the future of this website.

That being said not all was good. There were negative encounters. A few trials. Unpleasant realities. Certain events or places that brought forward my personal demons. I hesitated to share them here on these pages but as the number one piece of feedback I've received about OddBike has been "keep telling it like it is" I chose to reveal the lows as much as the highs. I did not censor myself. Am I thus an "arrogant Canadian", that trope I fought against at the beginning of the journey? That's not for me to decide. I received some criticism of this side of my work - I can only counter that I have done nothing but share what I perceive as the truth, revealing elements of myself in the process. This travelogue has followed the journey from within my own mind. It is a piece that has been written through a combination of stream-of-consciousness recollection, personal introspection, and copious notes taken while on the road. You have been following my innermost thought process, be it good or ill. 

So here I am today, filled with anticipation for another adventure that lays before me - this one considerably more permanent in nature than the OddBike USA Tour. I didn't anticipate the USA Tour to be such a phenomenal success, and aside from the experiences I had and friendships I forged along the way, I have been able to gather a ton of information and photographs to use in future OddBike articles, even more than I had anticipated before setting out. I could not have done it without the support of my readers and I thank everyone who helped out and encouraged me to undertake this crazy trip. The OddBike USA Tour was a success, and won't be the last such endeavour I undertake in the course of building this website into something special.

All that being said, if I learned anything from my time spent drinking with JT Nesbitt it is that I mustn't be defined by what has happened or what I have done. I need to keep looking forward. The best articles to be featured here on OddBike haven't been written yet. And the best OddBike Tour will be the next one.

Once again I extend a sincere thanks to everyone involved, whether it was directly or tangentially. I could not have done this without you.

- Jason Cormier
Home?

OddBike USA Tour 2013 Travelogue

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Now that the OddBike USA Tour Travelogue is finished, I've collected all the instalments of the ride report here for easy perusal. Enjoy.


It's a 916. With luggage. Deal with it.


Prologue

Incredulity, followed by a comment on the size and metallic composition of my testicles. That is usually the immediate reaction I receive when I tell people I use a Ducati 916 for touring duty. I’ve never seen it as that exceptional. Sure, 916s have earned a reputation for being cantankerous and uncomfortable mounts that are certainly ill suited to cross-country adventures. But reputation and reality are two different things.

Actually I’m lying: the reputation is well earned and quite accurate. I’m not a Ducati apologist who sugar coats the truth in favour of rosy nostalgia or blind brand worship. Riding a 916 any great distance is an exercise in zen-like concentration and meditative pain control, always haunted by the remote but present possibility of mechanical disaster. Spend any time on a Ducati forum and the stories of horror, and the photos of shattered alloy that were once engines, will instill an irrational but justifiable fear into the heart of any Ducati owner.
Read more


Ducati 916 Fall in New England

Setting Out

I have a strange relationship with motorcycle riding. I have an absolute, unmitigated passion for the sport and I’ve been riding since I was 17, but I still get pangs of apprehension every morning before I hit the road. You would think I should be accustomed to it by now, and yet each journey is preceded by intense bouts of anxiety. It’s not the danger or the risk, which has never factored into it for me. I simply don’t worry about such things. It’s something else, like an intense excitement that builds into this climax of fretfulness and physical discomfort. When I learned that Formula 1 legend James Hunt would often throw up right before a race, I immediately understood. Contrary to what you might think, it wasn't because he was scared, though he had a healthy appreciation for the danger involved in his sport. It was the energy and intensity of the coming event building up inside him to a literal bursting point.

Once I am on the bike, this unease and discomfort immediately melts away and I become part of the machine. My mind settles and my body relaxes. The act of riding becomes soothing, in spite of the fury of the machine and the heightened awareness necessary to pilot it. It’s an addictive routine – your body vibrating with anticipation, followed by a wave of intense calm and serenity washing over you.
Read more


Private race track.

Pennsylvania

I wake up at dawn the next day to clear skies and mild temperatures, a marked improvement from the previous day's conditions. It gave me the opportunity to wander the property in silence and take some better photos of the track and the estate. I adhered to the Lone Canuck stereotype, rising early and quietly taking in the beauty of the natural surroundings in the morning light while everyone else slept. Nobody needs to know that I was also checking my emails. I'll just let you imagine me silently gliding across a mist covered lake in a birch bark canoe, nobly surveying my surroundings.

Alan's property is situated on rolling hills surrounded by picturesque farmland and modest houses. While his buildings are far from ostentatious, his setup is a significant step above the nearby homes (even without the track). There certainly must have been a bit of jealousy involved when the local community took him to court to block his plans to build a race track, citing noise, safety, and zoning concerns. He eventually won after a lengthy legal battle, but the point was made that the neighbours were not impressed. The nearby Interstate makes far more racket than activity on the track ever would, so as far as I'm concerned the noise argument is a moot point. In any case they maintain a 7 pm curfew on track activity.



Ducati 916 Morning Fog

North Carolina

My sleep in Claytor Lake State Park is fitful and uncomfortable. The gravel base of the campsite pokes through my thin sleeping bag, so I resort to wearing my armored gear to pad me against the sharp underlay. I wake up an hour before dawn to a foggy, humid cold, the sort I dread whenever I go camping. It reminded me of camping in the Bay of Fundy one May when it would reach 25 degrees during the day and fall to low single digits at night - a despicable contrast that lures you into comfort during the day before cruelly taking it away every night. It's the kind of wet cold that chills you far more than the actual temperature would suggest, and leaves a thick coating of ice-cold condensation on everything left in the open. That included my boots, which I had put outside the tent to avoid fumigating my tiny quarters with my pungent road foot odour. I had thought that by the time I passed Pennsylvania I would have encountered warmer temperatures, but neglected to note that at night it still gets damned cold in the mountains along the Appalachian Trail.


Ducati in Maggie Valley North Carolina

Alabama

Thursday morning is sunny and cool, but appreciably warmer than it had been in Virginia. We are finally making progress in terms of temperature, the one element I hoped to escape quickly once I had started riding south. I wake at sunrise and walk around the Wheels Through Time property, taking photos of the beautiful surroundings as the light of dawn creeps into the valley.

I pack up my tent and gear, but I'm in no hurry today. Up until this point I had been hitting the road just after sunrise and arriving at my destination in the early afternoon. Today I want to take my time. I wander around the museum again, taking in some more of the endless details that I had missed on my whirlwind approach the previous day. I meet Jack, one of the museum employees, when I'm raiding the coffee pot and planning a route to Birmingham. I had originally thought about going east through the Smoky Mountains, then south through Tennessee, but he suggests a quicker route through Georgia. Later on I would discover his advice was quite sound, given how technical my original route proved to be.


Barber Motorsports Park Leeds Alabama Race Track

Friday

I wake up early and Winslow and I head straight to the Barber Motorsports Park in Leeds, a short drive outside of Birmingham. The facility is located in a secluded wooded area, surrounded by pleasant little twisty roads. If you are in the area and looking for some interesting riding roads, the routes around Barber would be a good place to start.


We arrive early enough to beat the traffic and nab parking near the front gate, but despite our early arrival it is clear that this is going to be a huge event. Visitors are streaming in steadily, and venues are spread out over miles of property surrounding the track and museum. I head over to the Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club stand located next to the entrance to locate David Morales, builder of the 50 Magnum I featured on Pipeburn. Sure enough Dave is there, with the Magnum on display alongside a very cool CT70 he had built previously. I introduce myself and meet his wife, Jennifer, before I wander off to take in the festivities.


Barber Vintage Motorsports Museum Leeds Alabama

"It's the NPR of motorcycle journalism." JT pats me on the shoulder. I think it's the first time I've seen him this evening without a beer in hand. He has just coined the new unofficial motto of OddBike. Alan glances at my card and flashes a polite smile. He promises to have a look at my site.

This is the close of one of the most intense and incredible days I've ever experienced, the absolute highlight of the OddBike USA Tour. I am exhausted and barely able to process what has happened to me today. This is the moment when I realize that embarking on this journey was one of the best decisions I've ever made, and this day was the beginning of the turning point in OddBike's future I was hoping for.     


Ducati 916 motorcycle in Louisiana palm trees

Sunday morning is another beautiful day in Birmingham. Attendees of the Vintage Festival were blessed with three perfect days of weather: 80-90 degree temperatures with blue skies and low humidity. Barring our spark-plug-fouling gridlock adventure on Saturday morning I was never uncomfortable. The dread of riding north into cooler weather was starting to dawn on me.

I wake up early to do my laundry and scribble down some notes for the previous two days. Saturday had been such an intense, whirlwind day that I never had the opportunity to stop and (literally) collect my thoughts, so I took the time to put my experiences on paper while they were still fresh in my mind. It still felt unreal and scarcely believable that I met so many interesting people and experienced so much in the course of a single day. I truly believe it will remain one of the most memorable days of my life. But I sincerely hope it isn't - better things await in the future. It's a line of thought that will become important over the next few days.


French Quarter New Orleans

I wake up Monday morning to the sound of a skittering creature in the shop. That would be JT's dog, Rivet, who was dropped off that morning. A tiny mongrel Chihuahua of some sort, Rivet is a hyperactive bug-eyed muppet who adds some life to Bienville Studios.

"What breed is he?" I ask JT while the snorting little gremlin is dancing around in front of me, scarcely able to contain his excitement at the prospect of a new human in the shop he can annoy.

"Namibian bat terrier."

"... Really?"

"No, I just made that up."  


Ducati 916 Motorcycle Louisiana Coast

Tuesday morning I get up early and take the Bandit to the USPS office in downtown New Orleans to grab the coolant sensor. I cut through the morning traffic and narrowly avoid getting T-boned by an asshole in a hulking SUV who has apparently decided that right of way is determined in inverse proportion to penis size. Here is where the Bandit is at home - it's a bit big to call it a city bike, but it does the job admirably considering it's an oil-cooled 1152cc stump puller. Rough roads are absorbed well by the slightly squishy suspension. The wide bars give lots of leverage and the steering it surprisingly quick. The brakes are strong once you get past the mushy lever. Having had a set of six-piston Tokicos on my Suzuki SV650, I'll say that with a set of sintered pads, stainless lines, and DOT 5.1 fluid they can work damned well.


Ducati 916 motorcycle in the fog of the Great Smoky Mountains

After my miserable afternoon of dodging homicidal family haulers in the Smokies and dumping my bike in the parking lot of a shitty motel, I was looking forward to a new day to refresh my outlook and get some proper riding done. Something that would make up for all those hours on the Interstate. Today I ride the Blue Ridge Parkway. A run through the gnarliest, twistiest roads on the map this side of the Tail of the Dragon.

I could have easily headed for that infamous North Carolina hotspot but I generally prefer to avoid the "must ride" routes that everyone and their grandma know about. Most of the time they are either disappointing or loaded with traffic. You can bet that any popular riding road will be overpopulated by squids going too fast, cruiser/touring barges going too slow, and law enforcement pissing everyone off. To paraphrase George Thorogood "When I ride alone I prefer to be by myself." Everything I'd heard about Deals Gap suggested it was a great place to see and do once, but if you wanted to ride some nice roads without risking your ass and dodging douchebags on Yamondazukawas there were plenty of other alternatives in the Appalachians. I decide I'll stick to the Smokies and the Blue Ridge Parkway near the Tennessee border, which looks plenty technical on the map. 

Rural Virginia

Virginia

I take the opportunity to sleep in today, one of the only instances where I didn't wake up at dawn and hit the road before the morning chill dissipated. Also odd considering the digs at the Super 8 were the least luxurious accommodations I have had so far, camping excepted. Clean though it seemed, I'd be lying if I said I hadn't checked the bed thoroughly for... things.

The clerk asks me if I'm the one with the motorcycle from Quebec. She is incredulous that I have ridden so far, even more so when I tell her that I had been to New Orleans. She is apprehensive about motorcycles, noting that she would be terrified of the heavy truck traffic. Really I would think I'd be intimidated by those lumbering, omnipresent brutes in any vehicle, not motorcycles exclusively. At least on a bike I can get out of my own way, quickly.


Morning in Upstate New York

I wake early on Sunday. It is a sunny, cool, crisp morning, the sort of perfect fall day that compliments the colour scheme of the landscape. The air smells fresh and clean. The scene is, thankfully, still vibrant here in upstate New York, a contrast to the dead hues and barren trees I had encountered in Pennsylvania and New Jersey the previous day.

While everyone else sleeps in I take the opportunity to once again walk the property and enjoy the sunrise. I'm treated to a spectacular sight as the sun's rays warm the surface of the lake and produces a thin layer of mist across the glassy-smooth water. As soon as it appears it is gone - a fleeting moment of beauty that disappears within the span of a few minutes. I don't envy the guests who are sleeping in late.

Thanks

Now that the OddBike USA Tour has been completed, I want to extend my thanks to everyone who contributed and supported the idea. I couldn't have done this without your help. 

Contributors to the campaign:
Luc Allain
Dr. Jeff Buchanan-Dorrance
Jeanne and Dennis Cormier
Alexander Cusick
Alicia Elfving - MotoLady
"Dr. John"
Niklas Klinte
Andrew and Adrienne McIntosh
Dennis Matson
James McBride - Silodrome.com
David and Jennifer Morales
Andrew Olson

And five other contributors who preferred to remain anonymous. Whoever you are, a profound thanks.

Special thanks goes out to a few folks who were kind enough to offer their help and support along the way:

Lee Conn and Brian Case - Motus Motorcycles
Denis and Chuck - Barber Vintage Motorsports Museum
JT Nesbitt - Bienville Studios
The guys at Baker's Garage in Lacey Springs, Virginia
Scott - Pipeburn.com
Winslow Taft
Michael Walshaw - Kriega USA 
Dale Walksler and the rest of the folks at the Wheels Through Time Museum
Alan Wilzig and the gang at WRM

Thanks again to everyone who made this happen!

Yamaha GTS 1000 - The Future is Forkless

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Yamaha GTS 1000 Motorcycle

If you've spent any amount of time here on OddBike, you’ll be aware that I tend to favour independent thought and unique approaches to the design and construction of motorcycles. The mandate for this site, such as it is, is to profile rare and unusual machines – with a particular eye towards unique technical qualities.

One element I have touched upon in the past is the proliferation of unique front suspension designs that are arguably superior to the “traditional” telescopic fork. There are a few brave engineers, designers and inventors who have dared to question the hegemony of the fork and propose a better solution. One of the most prominent, and perhaps the most misunderstood, is James Parker. Parker was one of the first inventors to achieve what many backyard tinkerers only dream of – to have his design adopted by a major manufacturer and put into mass production. His efforts are thus one of the best-known contributions to alternative front suspension design. Unfortunately Parker learned the hard way that the difference between conception and production can be significant, and that the design process within a major manufacturer is far from straightforward.

Read the rest on Silodrome.com

Yamaha GTS 1000 Motorcycle Brochure
Image Source

James Parker's GSXRADD P3
Photo credit R. David Marks


DKW Supercharged Two-Strokes - Force-Fed Deeks

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DKW supercharged SS 250 Ladepumpe motorcycle Barber Museum
DKW SS 250 at the Barber Museum

There is a saying that used to be shared in history circles, with a wry smirk, which has since become a minor cliche: “History is written by the winners”. Hackneyed though it may be, there is a great deal of truth in that old platitude. Be it in politics or in motorsports, odds are the story you know is the one that has been informed by the success of those who came out ahead. In the case of DKW and their series of once-dominant supercharged motorcycles, the company's successes have been drowned out by the tides of history. Some of the fastest, most advanced, and technologically interesting two-strokes of the 1930s have nearly been forgotten due to the company's unfortunate national ties – the once-famous Ladepumpe and supercharged “Deeks” became victims of historical circumstances beyond their control.



DKW Des Knaben Wunsch 18cc engine
Des Knaben Wunsch 18cc stationary engine circa 1919
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The DKW story begins in 1916 when Danish engineer Jørgen Skafte Rasmussen founded the company in Zschopau, Germany. At this early stage Rasmussen was producing steam machinery fittings, the latest of several industrial business ventures he had worked on since immigrating to Germany in 1904. The resource shortages and rationing experienced in Germany during the First World War had inspired Rasmussen to develop a steam-driven automobile as a more economical alternative to gasoline-powered machines, hence the company's name: Dampf Kraft Wagen, the "steam motor vehicle". While the steam car venture failed to take off, the fledgling company found success in an unlikely avenue: a tiny, high-quality 18cc two-stroke stationary engine designed by engineer Hugo Ruppe. Des Knaben Wunsch, as it became known, was sold as a toy engine and soon took the place of miniature steam engines on the tabletops of well-to-do children across Germany.

DKW Das Kleine Wunder
Das Kleine Wunder 118cc auxiliary motor
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DKW entered the two-wheeled fray in 1921 with another Ruppe design, this time a 118cc two-stroke auxiliary engine that could be installed on a bicycle. This humble machine was dubbed Das Kleine Wunder, once again preserving the DKW moniker despite the change of tact and presumably allowing Rasmussen to re-use the company letterhead.

DKW SS 250 supercharged two stroke motorcycle

It wasn't long after this tentative first step into the two-wheeled marketplace that DKW built its first complete motorcycle, the 142cc Reichsfahrmodell of 1922. The timing proved to be fortuitous as the company was able to ride the wave of newfound popularity for inexpensive two-wheeled transportation following Germany's bout with extreme inflation in the early 1920s. Such was the success of DKW motorcycles that by 1928 Rasmussen purchased a controlling stake in a little automotive manufacturer by the name of Audi Werk AG in Zwickau. The Zwickau factory would subsequently became the site of DKW automobile production, while motorcycle manufacturing continued at Zschopau. By the early 1930s DKW was one of the world's largest motorcycle manufacturers with over 20,000 employees. Two-strokes remained the company's speciality, and DKW became well regarded as a manufacturer of high-quality 'strokers in both two- and four-wheeled applications –  it seems unusual today, with four-stroke automotive engines having been the norm for the latter half of the 20th century, but there was once a time when you could find smoky ring-ding mills under the hood of a variety of cars competing with their (admittedly heavier and more complicated) four-stroke counterparts. Through the 1930s DKW produced a series of fascinating forced-induction two-stroke V4s that used a pair of integrated cylinders to pressurize the intake charge– the resulting motor appeared to be a V6 but only had four “functional” cylinders, the extra pair of pistons serving as compressors.

DKW SS 250 girder fork

With their explosive growth at the end of the 1920s checked by massive debt and the beginning of the Great Depression, DKW needed to re-organize to remain solvent. The solution came in 1932 when DKW and Audi were merged into Auto Union along with Horch and Wanderer. The current four-ring logo used by Audi was the symbol of Auto Union, each ring representing the four manufacturers.      

Bekamo motorcycle engine
Bekamo Ladepumpe single
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Success in two-wheeled endeavours inevitably results in competition, and DKW was quick to begin producing racing machines to compete in small-displacement categories. During those early days of racing DKW encountered a formidable competitor from rival German marque Bekamo, who produced a series of highly refined two-stroke singles that became famous for being the first "supercharged" production motorcycle. They were designed by (drumroll) Hugo Ruppe – the same Ruppe who had designed Des Knaben Wunsch and Das Kleine Wunder before leaving DKW to found Berliner Kleinmotoren Aktiengesellschaft (Bekamo) in 1922. The Bekamo piston-port 129cc single used a dummy piston and cylinder that was placed opposite the functional piston at the base of the crankcase. It appeared to be an asymmetrical flat twin at first glance but the supercharging cylinder, dubbed the Ladepumpe (charging pump), had no porting or spark plug.

Bekamo supercharged motorcycle engine
Bekamo single
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The engine operated on the Bichrome supercharging principle where the swept volume of the crankcase was reduced as the supercharging piston moved up, thereby compressing the intake mix as it swirled through the crankcase. The piston doesn't compress air directly, it dynamically reduces the volume of the crankcase as the intake port opens. The upward movement of the pumping piston was timed to match the downstroke of the main cylinder so it compressed the intake mixture just as the port opened, forcing the charge into the cylinder. This is an effect that is only possible in a two-stroke, where the crankcase serves as the intake plenum. The deflector of the piston-port design angled the intake charge upward into the combustion chamber, preventing the pressurized mixture from being blown straight out of the open exhaust port on the opposite side of the cylinder (a problem called "overscavenging" in two-stroke parlance). The Bekamo also featured a novel adjustable air-assisted scavenging system where an extra port fed fresh air into a chamber inside the piston, after which it would be fed into the cylinder to help push exhaust gas out before the fuel mixture entered.

DKW ARe 175 Motorcycle
Replica DKW 175 ARe
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DKW began developing their own Ladepumpe engine designs, resulting in the liquid-cooled 175 ARe and 250 ORe singles and the 500 PRe twin in 1928. These were similar in principle to the Bekamo, using piston-port induction and featuring the same layout with a Ladepumpe cylinder set 180 degrees opposite the functional piston(s). These early machines achieved some successes and had a significant performance advantage, albeit at the expense of fuel economy. The ARe and ORe advanced the DKW racing effort and proved to the be the first of a series of supercharged two-strokes that would become a signature of the marque in the 1930s.          

DKW ORe 250 Motorbike
DKW 250 ORe
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Around the same time that DKW and Bekamo were experimenting with their Ladepumpe engines, German engineer Adolf Schnürle introduced a revolutionary new porting design while working on two-stroke marine diesel engines. Where previous piston-port engines used a deflector cast into the dome of the piston to angle the charge upward and prevent overscavenging, the Schnürle porting used carefully angled ports that would direct the charge upwards into the combustion chamber. Because the scavenging was controlled by the porting and not the shape of the piston, a lighter and less heat-soak prone flat-top piston could be used, which allowed the use of higher compression ratios. DKW was the first company to adopt Schnürle principles in a production motorcycle engine, purchasing the rights to apply the technology to gasoline engines in 1932. Schnürle porting, when combined with carefully tuned exhaust expansion chambers, would prove to be the most efficient two-stroke scavenging principle and one that would dominate two-stroke design right into the present day.

DKW ORe ARe engine layout
ARe and ORe layout
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DKW ORe 250 Engine
ORe engine
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However in these early days DKW continued to focus on supercharged designs to improve the performance of their Rennmaschinen and make the humble two-stroke a formidable competitor against the four-stroke designs that dominated the European racing scene of the 1930s. This was a time when the four-stroke single was the king of European circuits, when big thumpers from the British and Italian brands were the machines to beat on the track. Multi-cylinder machines were just beginning to enter the scene and become competitive against the well-developed singles, but competitive two-strokes were virtually nonexistent in the larger categories. This was a time when the two-stroke was considered noisy, smelly and cheap – they were dirty, smoky engines better suited for lowly commuter machines than they were for fast sporting bikes.      

In terms of supercharging, Schnürle designs were at a disadvantage. Because of the flat piston and port-controlled scavenging, boosting a Schnürle engine simply resulted in significant overscavenging – the pressurized intake mix just blew straight through the cylinder and out the open exhaust port. But piston port designs, while better at handling boost, were limited in their efficiency and were hitting a wall when it came to tuning. DKW needed to take a step forward to remain competitive while continuing their supercharged racing programme. With piston-port being old hat and Schnürle designs still in their infancy, they turned to a third way: the split piston design.

DKW SS 250 Ladepumpe engine
SS 250 Ladepumpe engine
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Split piston two-strokes were not a new idea. Garelli introduced the concept in 1912, and Puch had been building simple split-single engines (sometimes referred to as “Twingles” after they were marketed under that name by Sears in the 1950s) since 1923. Puch in fact won the 1931 German Grand Prix at the Nurburgring with a liquid-cooled and supercharged 250cc split-single ridden by Swiss rider Elvetio Toricelli, something that may have been a significant influence on DKW's subsequent racing programme. The basic principle of a split-piston engine is to separate the intake and exhaust ports by using two distinct cylinders with their own pistons, rising and falling in unison and sharing a common combustion chamber. The intake ports are cut into one cylinder, the exhaust ports into the other. The fuel mixture is pulled into the first cylinder and compressed into the bathtub-shaped combustion chamber. After ignition, on the power stroke, the exhaust is pulled out through the second cylinder and the process starts anew. Because there is only one combustion chamber and the intake and exhaust as split between the two cylinders, the split design is considered a single unit for racing purposes, the displacement calculated by combining the bore and stroke of each cylinder. Two pistons were thus considered equal to a single cylinder of equivalent displacement.

DKW supercharged two stroke engine
URe (or SS) 250 internals
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The Puch design, a later version of which would become somewhat famous in the post-war period when it was rebadged and sold in the USA under the Allstate brand by Sears, used a U-shaped forked conrod with a single crankpin controlling both pistons. It was a curious but not particularly efficient design: while it was an improvement over the old piston-port engines, the added complexity and weight of the dual-piston setup and circuitous scavenging arrangement making it less efficient than the much simpler Schnürle design. But for DKW it had a distinct advantage: you could supercharge it without blowing the intake mixture straight out the exhaust.

DKW SS 250 Ladepumpe Motorcycle
DKW SS 250

The Puch U-shaped conrod was heavy and unsuitable for the sustained high revolutions expected of a racing engine, so in 1931 DKW engineer Arnold Zoller refined the concept with a master/slave conrod design. There was a single crankpin for both rods, with the exhaust piston connected directly to the crankpin by the “master” rod, while the intake side piston was controlled by a “slave” conrod. The slave rod was offset slightly and connected to the main rod with a pivoting pin. The timing between the two cylinders was offset by about 15 degrees to close the exhaust ports ahead of the intake, to maximize the supercharger effect and preventing overscavenging.

DKW SS 250 Motorbike
DKW SS 250
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The first of the Zoller-designed machines was the URe, which was a thermosyphon liquid-cooled “single” with three pistons. The URe was supercharged with a massive 120mm-diameter Ladepumpe piston, driven off the crankshaft by two conrods, mounted at 90 degrees to the main cylinders and protruding out of the front of the crankcase between the downtubes of the frame. The bore of each of the split-single's pistons were the same (47.5mm), but the strokes were slightly different - 69.7mm and 70.5mm. Total displacement was 248.4cc and power was in the neighbourhood of 24hp at 4500 rpm, later revised to 30hp at 5000 rpm. A separate four-speed transmission was used with a chain final drive. The prototype chassis featured a duplex cradle steel frame with rigid rear suspension. Subsequent versions added a swinging-arm rear suspension suspended by a sprung hub with a separate hydraulic damper (despite looking much like a plunger rear suspension, it is in fact a full swinging arm). Experiments were made with a unique front suspension that used a girder fork sprung with three massive rubber straps instead of springs – yes, a rubber band suspension on a racing machine. Aside from the suspension experiments the chassis was very conventional and not particularly noteworthy. Some accounts point out that handling was always the DKW's weak point, and in general they were heavier than their competitors - problems that were overcome by the application of copious amounts of horsepower from their supercharged mills.

DKW SS 250 Barber Museum
DKW SS 250

Offered alongside the URe in 1935 was the SS 250, a production racer offered to the public at the cost of 1550 Reichsmarks. The SS was supposedly sold to the public at a loss and early versions were painted in the same silver and grey paint scheme as the works URe racers, albeit with simpler rigid rear suspension chassis with pressed steel downtubes until a 1938 update offered the same chassis design as the factory machines. That same year the silver paint scheme became reserved for the factory machines, with all privateer-bound SSs being painted black with red accents – supposedly this was to better distinguish privateer entries from works machines on the track, where the highly-competitive DKWs were becoming a common sight.

DKW SS 350 Motorbike
DKW SS 350
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1938 saw the release of the UL, an updated 250cc machine that moved the Ladepumpe in front of the cylinder, inline with the engine and operating on its own crankshaft that was geared off the main unit. Two versions were developed which differed in their induction systems: the ULd featured a rotary valve while the ULe used a reed valve. Both were supercharged directly with the Ladepumpe force-feeding the intake ports. Power was now 35 hp at 7000 rpm, top speed 110 miles per hour. These machines were an unusual sight, with twin Amal carburettors jutting out either side of the motor ahead of the main cylinder, with the twin high-mounted exhaust pipes (being nothing more than long and unmuffled megaphones) exiting at the rear. Legend has it that the side-mounted carburettors made wet weather races a challenge, with rain water easily getting sucked down the unfiltered intake trumpets.

DKW SS/UL Ladepumpe split piston twin
UL/SS Twin
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For larger capacity classes a twin cylinder version of the UL was developed, and these motors were available in 350, 500, 600 and 700cc displacements, with the three latter capacities (some with multiple Ladepumpe pistons) reserved for sidecar racing. Unlike the ULe and ULd 250, the Ladepumpe was once again moved to the 180 degree position and driven off the main crankshaft with a pair of conrods. Thus these “twins” had five pistons: four 39.5mm items, plus the 100mm supercharging piston, all held together around a common crankshaft by six conrods. The cylinder block had the appearance of a square-four, and were distinguished from the 250s by their finned water jackets and the 180 degree placement of their Ladepumpe cylinders. A SS 350, which was virtually identical to the works UL machines, was offered to the public and sold in limited numbers.

DKW ULd 250 engine cutaway
ULd 250
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DKW ULd 250
ULd 250
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It was the 250 ULd that served as the mount for one of DKW's most famous victories at the 1938 Isle of Man Tourist Trophy. It was not the first time the Deeks had been fielded at the venerable TT; the factory had been participating with their supercharged machines since 1935, and had taken third place in the 250cc Lightweight category in 1936 and 1937. The DKW team was a formidable force, one of the best organized works efforts at the time with a racing department that exceeded 100 staff members. It was no secret that the DKW team was part of the Nazi push to dominate motorsports across the continent, a pet project of Hitler and the Nazi party to prove the supremacy of German technology in every category. Riders and team members often held positions in the National Socialist Motor Corps (Nationalsozialistische Kraftfahrkorps, NSKK), a curious offshoot of the Sturmabteilung that endured after the SA was violently purged in 1934. The NSKK was ostensibly a paramilitary organization, but was comparable to a motoring advocacy and training group in terms of its mandate. Imagine the AAA with a quasi-military structure and questionable political affiliations and a tank driver training program.

Ewald Kluge Isle of Man TT 1938
Ewald Kluge at the 1938 Isle of Man TT
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In 1938 the DKW team returned to the Isle of Man with 29 year old Saxon rider Ewald Kluge, a fast rising star in the continental racing circuit who was on his way to becoming one of the top riders in Europe. Kluge meteoric rise was all the more surprising given his humble background and relatively recent entrance into motorsport. Kluge had endured a difficult childhood and the loss of his mother at a young age. He had a keen interest in two- and four-wheeled machines that he inherited from his father, and apprenticed with an automobile mechanic. Unfortunately his apprenticeship coincided with the severe German economic downturn and inflation of the 1920s, which forced Kluge into a career as a taxi driver in Dresden. He scrimped and saved for years before purchasing his first racing motorcycle in 1929, a British-built Dunelt single. Success came quickly for the young rider and by 1934 he had been hired by DKW was a race mechanic and back-up rider. His success with the DKW team began in 1935, when he rode with the DKW team at the International Six Days Trial and helped earn the German effort the top team prize of the event. Kluge was known for his smooth, precise and fast riding style that earned him the enviable nickname of “Panther”. From then on he was a formidable competitor in the German racing scene, joining the works DKW team in 1936 and dominating the German 250cc championship for the following four years.    

Ewald Kluge ULd 250 Isle of Man TT
Kluge on the ULd 250 at the 1938 TT
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Kluge made his TT debut at the 1937 event riding a factory-backed 250 URe. He performed well, leading the Lightweight category for a period, but faced stiff competition from the Italian contingent. When a broken throttle cable sidelined Kluge, Moto-Guzzi rider Omobono Tenni became the first Continental European rider to win the Lightweight TT, 37 seconds ahead of the second place finisher Stanley Woods.

Auto-Union DKW record setting machine
Auto-Union DKW record machine
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In October of 1937 Auto Union prepared several modified, alcohol-burning versions of the URe singles and twins to contest several speed records. Kluge and teammate Walfried Winkler rode the highly tuned machines: the 250 produced 49 hp, while the 350 shrieked out 60 hp. Special streamlined helmets and highly aerodynamic fairings were employed, the most impressive being a “sidecar” (minus the passenger accommodations) that featured a fully faired closed canopy. Speed runs were held on a stretch of autobahn between Frankfurt and Darmstadt, where Auto Union secured 14 class records with their alcohol-fueled DKWs.

Auto-Union DKW streamliner
Auto-Union DKW solo streamliner
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In 1938 Kluge and DKW returned to the Isle of Man with the new rotary-valve 250 ULd. Kluge set a commanding lead in the event, the thundering crackle of his megaphone-equipped machine becoming the stuff of legend – even today the Ladepumpe DKWs are remembered as some of the loudest machines to ever turn a wheel at the TT, and their staggeringly loud exhaust note could be heard some 10 miles away. In the decades since the 1938 event those pummelling exhaust pulses have been exaggerated somewhat - at some point over the years 10 miles became 20, then 30, 40, maybe 100 miles, the distance growing with each subsequent pint. Some grizzled old veterans share tall tales claiming the racket emanating from the German steeds could be heard clear across the Irish Sea on the British mainland. Whatever the reality, the Ladepumpe Deeks were spectacularly goddamned loud and still shatter eardrums around the world when the machines are dusted off and paraded around at classic events.



Despite some spectacularly terrible fuel consumption (to the tune of around 15 miles to the gallon) and the associated fuel stops, the ULd dominated the field and Kluge won the Lightweight TT with a staggering eleven minute lead over the second place finisher, with a total time of 3 hours, 21 minutes and 56 seconds at an average speed of 78.48 miles per hour. He became the second continental European to win at the TT, and the victory became a feather in DKW's cap. Kluge would go on to win 12 of the 14 races he entered in 1938, taking second in the remaining two, making him the European 250cc champion. At the end of the season he earned the title “Champion of Champions”, an accolade only given to riders who earned the highest possible number of points in European events.  

DKW ULd 250 Motorcycle
ULd 250
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DKW's moment of glory in 1938 would quickly become overshadowed by the events of the following year at the so-called “Nazi TT” when state-sponsored German teams arrived on the Isle displaying none-too-subtle support for Hitler's government and a mandate of conquering the Manx event to showcase the supremacy of German motorsports efforts. The German contingent, represented by entries from BMW, DKW and NSU, would turn the 1939 TT into a political event that would leave a bad taste in the mouth of many who were involved. German riders had Nazi standards sewn onto their black leather outfits. Well-connected Nazi party faithful were present. The NSKK was in control of the scene, orchestrated by the organization's leader Erwin Kraus.

DKW UR / SS 250 engine cutaway
URe 250
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During the leadup to the 1939 TT there was some heated wrangling playing out behind the scenes. George Brown, a Manx newspaper editor and BBC race commentator, was fired from his BBC post (supposedly following a complaint filed by Kraus to the BBC) after Brown had prophetically declared “Of course we don't want German or Italian riders to win and still less do we desire a victory for a British rider using a German of Italian machine… There is more than a chance that the countries these famous British riders represent will be at war with Britain before the year is out.”

DKW UL 600 racing sidecar
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It's not that surprising that in the decades since the Nazi TT (the nickname itself a derisive jab that downplays the entire event and the accomplishments of all involved) the British have developed a revisionist view of the event and the people who came to the Isle that June. This can take the form of trivialization or snide derision. The riders became sinister figures, described by one MCN summary as “stormtroopers in a paramilitary organisation run by the Nazi party” - that organization being the NSKK, the stormtrooper jab referring to the junior rank of the Corps (Sturmmann). The same summary refers to Ewald Kluge as an “assault leader”, referring to his rank as a mid-level lieutenant (Sturmführer) in the NSKK.* Much like any other scenario involving Nazi-era Germans exaggeration runs rampant and biases are reinforced by subsequent events in history. Revisionism is the rule rather than the exception. The German teams are dismissed as nothing more than dirty rotten Nazis who spoiled the TT for everyone.

US 250
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DKW continued to refine their supercharged machines for 1939. The ultimate evolution of the company's forced-induction split-single formula were the 250 and 350 US, which dispensed with the Ladepumpe in favour of a centrifugal supercharger mounted in front of the engine feeding pressurized mixture into the crankcases. Power was now up to 40 hp at 7000 rpm for the 250, 48 hp for the 350.

US 250
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Despite the death of BMW rider Karl Gall during practice, the German teams forged ahead and BMW took first and second place at the Senior TT, the first overall TT victory by a non-British machine. DKW performed well in the smaller categories but failed to secure a win, their efforts ultimately overshadowed by the high-profile Senior victories. Ewald Kluge took second place in the Lightweight TT aboard the 250 US, finishing behind Benelli rider Ted Mellors. Siegfried Wünsche took fifth for the team in the same event, while British DKW rider Ernie Thomas placed eighth. Heiner Fleischmann took third and Wünsche sixth in the Junior category aboard their 350 USs.



Georg Meir, winner of the Senior TT on the formidable 500cc BMW RS 255 Kompressor, infamously gave a one-armed Nazi salute on the podium. It was a perfect piece of propaganda for Hitler's Germany, a victory at the highest level of European competition. Subsequent history turned the 1939 TT into an embarrassing episode that was hoisted high as an example of Nazi hubris. The final insult was the loss of the Manx trophies given to the Axis teams which would be spirited away and lost until the end of the war. After some sleuthing the Lightweight trophy given to Benelli was dug up from under a chicken coop in Pisaro, while the Senior trophy was seized from a BMW distributor in Soviet-held Vienna.

UL 600 Sidecar
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Once the war was underway and competition had been suspended, DKW shelved their racing programme to focus on wartime production of NZ 350 and RT 125 models for the Wehrmacht, which would become popular among dispatch and reconnaissance riders as lighter and nimbler alternatives to the four-stroke BMW and Zundapp military motorcycles. DKW would be one of many German companies to use forced labour during the war - this included at least 500 Jewish women taken from Auschwitz, most of whom did not survive a supposed “evacuation” attempt in open railcars following an Allied bombing raid of the worker's barracks outside the Zschopau factory. Kluge would serve as a Unteroffizier in the Schule für Heeresmotorisierung (“school for army motorization”) in Wünsdorf before being released to work for Auto Union as a test driver in 1943.    

SS 350
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At the close of the war the Zschopau works was seized by Soviet forces. The entire factory was dismantled and transported into the Soviet Union, where it was reconstructed in Ishewsk. An attempt to revive the DKW factory by a worker's collective in 1946 failed and the remains of the factory were converted to production of IFA automobiles and motorcycles by the Soviet leadership, eventually becoming the site of MZ motorcycle production. The operation was referred to as the Industrieverband Fahrzeugbau Werk-DKW until 1951, when the DKW moniker was dropped.

The 250cc IFA-DKW/ Kurt Kuhnke KS-1 supercharged opposed-piston machine
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The interwar DKW racing department, the surviving works machines, the tooling, and the records were seized and effectively disappeared into the maw of the Soviet Union – it is at this point that the history of DKW's supercharged machines becomes extremely murky. There were apparently a centrifugally-supercharged opposed-piston twin-cylinder racer in development before was broke out in 1939. This remarkable machine would have been an evolution of the 250/350 US, but details on this design and the fate of any prototypes are scant. Only a few sketches and photos remain. The design featuring twin cylinders with four pistons and geared-together dual crankshafts. Once the Soviets had discovered the plans for these "Gegenläufer" twins, they set about developing the concept and producing several prototypes. From 1946 to 1949 one 250cc and four 350cc machines were built. IFA-DKW engineers Kurt Bang and Karl Kluge, under the supervision of former DKW race department engineer August Prüssing, were tasked with developing the engine. The IFA-built machines were lost to history after being transported into the Soviet Union, never to be seen again... But one 250cc engine was secretly spirited to the West by racer Kurt Kuhnke and installed in an interwar DKW chassis. That particular motorcycle, dubbed the Kuhnke Sport 1 (KS-1) was raced in Germany until the 1951 ban on supercharged machines, at which point it disappeared for several decades. It was eventually recovered and restored in 1991, at which point it produced a remarkable 55 hp at 8500 rpm. Today the KS-1 resides in the Augustusburg Castle Motorcycle Museum in Augustusburg, Germany.

IFA-DKW opposed-piston two-stroke
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IFA-DKW opposed piston machine. Note that the engine is laid out transversely ala BMW in the IFA design while it was mounted longitudinally in the KS-1
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Ewald Kluge was arrested by Soviet forces in 1946 and charged as a Nazi, an accusation reinforced by his party membership since 1937, his ties to the NSKK, and his service at the Wünsdorf motor school. He would be imprisoned in the infamous NKVD Special Camp No. 1 near Mühlberg, setup in the formerly German Stalag IV-B prisoner of war camp.

DKW, along with the surviving elements of Auto Union, relocated to Ingolstadt in West Germany. It was there that Auto Union GmbH was formed in 1947, initially servicing military vehicles and producing spares for pre-war machines. The first DKW machine to re-enter production following the war was the humble RT 125.

URe 250
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In the austere environment of post-war Germany the simple, cheap and rugged RT became a smash hit. While DKW was producing their RT 125W (“West”) in Ingolstadt, IFA began producing their own RT 125 in Zschopau in 1948. Repatriation agreements following the war led to the design of the RT being produced by numerous companies around the world, including numerous Soviet copies that were being produced in Kovrov (called the K-125), Moscow (M1A Moskva) and Warsaw (SHL 125). Copies were made in the West by BSA (Bantam) and Harley-Davidson (Hummer). The RT was even reverse-engineered and put into production by a certain Japanese musical instrument company in Hamamatsu in 1955 – the YA-1 would be the first product of the Yamaha Motor Company. The RT would prove to be one of the most copied motorcycles of all time, and the machine that would establish Schnürle porting as the prototypical two-stroke design.

SS 350
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Motorcycle racing restarted in Germany shortly after the end of the war, and interwar racing machines experienced a short renaissance while German companies regained their footing. In 1946 the FIM banned supercharging in motorcycle racing, but in the immediate postwar period Germany operated independently of the FIM with its own set of motorsports regulations that retained the interwar rules. While many of the works DKW machines were lost forever, be it due to destruction of war or their being whisked away into the vast expanses of the USSR, a few survived and were re-entered into competition after 1945. Ewald Kluge was freed by the Soviets in 1949 and immediately returned to racing as a way of making a living in the difficult postwar era, rejoining the Auto-Union team in 1950. He raced Auto-Union liveried DKWs for several years until a crash at a 350 race held at the Nurburgring in 1953 left him seriously injured. He retired from racing after the accident, and passed away due to cancer in 1964 at age 55.  

DKW URe 250 Motorcycle
URe 250
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Germany was re-admitted into the FIM in 1951 and thereafter supercharged machines became a relic of an earlier era, never again to be fielded in official competition. DKW renewed their racing program with naturally-aspirated two-strokes, including some well-developed RT 125 racers and a successful series of air-cooled 250 twins and 350 triples. While the Schnürle-ported “Singing Saw” two-strokes were competitive machines by the mid 1950s and eventually eclipsed the specific outputs of their supercharged predecessors, they simply couldn't hold a candle to the technology offered by the remarkable interwar machines. The DKW racing programme would come to an end after the 1956 season. By the end of the 1960s DKW would be no more, its respective motorcycle and automobile arms absorbed, bought out, and merged into oblivion.

DKW SS 250
SS 250

As the decades pass the accomplishments of the DKW racing department are becoming progressively forgotten and memories of their work increasingly hazy. DKW and the German riders of the interwar period have become the victims of history, their accomplishments tainted by their association with the Nazi push to dominate motorsports competition during the 1930s. The destruction of the war and the subsequent plundering of the DKW factory have all but erased the mark of their once dominant supercharged two-strokes from racing history. The technical details of these singular machines are becoming misunderstood and misrepresented as the decades roll on, making the preservation of their heritage increasingly difficult. The Volkswagen Audi Group has attempted to preserve their Auto-Union heritage by restoring and maintaining several of interwar DKWs, remanufacturing spares to keep these exceptional motorcycles running for future generations to appreciate. While their efforts are admirable, they are insignificant in the face of decades of neglect, or the deliberate ignorance of those who prefer to trivialize the accomplishments of the Nazi-era German marques. Audi's attempts at preserving their company history is overwhelmed by many years of inertia, and glosses over many of the important (and sometimes unpleasant) details. The DKW Ladepumpe and supercharged split-single two-strokes were some of the most fascinating and technologically advanced motorcycles of their era, and despite their once-dominant position on the European racing stage they are slowly being forgotten.

DKW supercharged engine layouts
DKW supercharged engine layouts:
1. URe 250
2. ULd
3. SS 350 and URe 350
4. SS 250
5. US
6. Kurt Bang's opposed-piston prototype
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Editor's Note: This topic has been, without a doubt, one of the most difficult subjects I've researched for OddBike to date. The details about the interwar DKWs are scant, convoluted, vague, contradictory, and generally properly screwed up. Even the best sources I was able to find were so full of holes that I had to carefully patch together a rough timeline and technical history to try and make sense of the development of these machines. I mention this because I am certain that I am getting some of these details wrong, and I welcome anyone who knows better to please share their knowledge. I'd like my humble attempt at preserving and sharing the history of these machines to be the impetus to dig up some additional information and correct years of misinformation. If you have anything to share, be it fact or conjecture, please feel free to leave your comments below.        

Leo Steinweg DKW ORe 250
Leo Steinweg on his ORe 250
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*The same MCN summary refers to Jewish racer Leo Steinweg as a DKW rider who was forced out of Germany in favour of “Aryan” riders, flippantly reducing him into a footnote used to paint DKW in a negative light. I felt I should add some further details to do Steinweg some justice:

Leo Steinweg started riding for DKW in 1924 on the ARE and ORE series of machines, and ran a motorcycle and bicycle repair shop in Münster. His racing career ended in 1934 when the renewal of his racing license required proof of Aryan heritage – Jews were barred from renewing, a ban which was extended to all driver's licenses and vehicle registrations in 1938. Steinweg fled to the Netherlands in 1938 and lived in hiding with his Catholic wife Emmy Herzog until 1942, when he was captured and sent to a series of concentration camps, including Auschwitz. He died in Flossenburg in early 1945. Emmy Herzog survived the war and published a memoir of her life with Steinweg in 2004.

Interesting Links
Bonhams auction of a US 250 ridden by Kurt Kuhnke
Sale of a 1936 DKW SS250 that is claimed to have been one of Kluge's practice machines
Phil Aynsley's photos of the 1936 Kluge SS250
Motorrad Online profile of the SS 250 and 350
"Rosie" the SS 350 on The Vintagent
Audi profile of Ewald Kluge
Ed Youngblood's Motohistory featuring lots of useful info about German two strokes and supercharged DKWs
Mick Walker's European Racing Motorcycles
Mick Walker's German Racing Motorcycles
Mick Walker's MZ
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